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neotko

Newcommer with UMO+ and lots of questions

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Hi,

 

Newcomer here, I’m gonna have my precious new Assembled UMO+ tomorrow or something like that (DHL Express).

 

I have like a gazzilion questions, for some I found the answer, some others only partially. My main problem is that I have almost zero ‘electrical’ knowledge, but I’m trying to learn :D

 

My main topics:

 

UMO+ Dual Extrusion:

 

As ‘Daid’ said “If you want to hack things, then dual-extrusion on an UMO+ can most certainly be done”

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7466-ultimaker-origional-and-dual-extruders/&do=findComment&comment=69778

 

I bough the UMO+ assembled. Also I bough a Dual Extrusion Experimental and a PT100 B and I have order 2 heater cartridge from Ultimaker. Also, I bough the U Bed Kit, because for what I did understand I need more power for UMO+ to have dual extruders + hot bed at the same time.

 

The part I didn’t find a clear answer it’s… Since UMO+ it’s like a Monster (the one from Dr. Frankenstein) on the ‘specs’ area. It has parts of the UMO and pieces of the UM2. And I say this because on github it’s just a mess to find the real parts that UMO+ has, it has a PT100B like the UM2 and the heater also from UM2 since the heater of the UMO it’s 19v and the UMO+/UM2 it’s 24v…

 

Ok. So when you go to Ultimaker Spare parts shop, there are spare parts, but only for UM2 and UMO, the ones that are for UMO+ are mixed, and github doesn’t clear thinks up, but after muuuuch forum reading, the info can be found thanks to the quite amazing community ultimaker has.

 

So back to my questions… Now I have (tomorrow If i’m lucky) the UMO+2 the Dual Extruder Experimental and the Heated Bed (yeah I know it would have been easier with just a UMO but the electronic parts I’m sure that on UMO+ are more refined and will last longer). So yea I have that combo. My idea it’s to plug the dual extruders to the main board, and the heated bed to the PCB that comes with the HBK. Would this work? right? Ofc I have the PT100 B and 24v heater so the new head it’s properly connected.

 

My other question it’s.. If the UMO+ has the same board as the UM2, and the difference it’s that the Bed uses 40W but the UM2 uses 25W, and that gives enough ‘space’ so a second head ‘could’ be installed. (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9344-company-update/page-4&do=findComment&comment=93299)

Then my questions are 2:

 

- If I find a power supply that fits on V and all that stuff that I don’t know much about, and that new p.supply could send around 40W more than the one that comes with the machine, does that mean that I could just plug everything on the main board without a second power supply connected to the PCB that comes with the HBK?

- And… The other idea/question. Can’t the firmware be change so the heated bed only gets 25W like on UM2? I repeat, I have zero electrical knowledge, but I assume that that would only mean that it ‘heats’ slower, and that for me it’s just ok.

 

Ok that’s the first main topic I wanted to ask you guys.

 

The second it’s much easier :D

 

I’m planning to change from 3mm to 1.75.

 

I have read, asked questions all around and seems it’s quite doable. The part that it’s weird for me it’s that, mostly everywhere I see the comments suggest to use IRobertI feeder, and it seems like a quite nice feeder. The think it’s that that feeder it’s for UM2. So I went to the youimagine and on the BOM says ‘The parts from the old feeder plus…’. Ok the ‘old feeder’ its from a U2, so since I’m gonna have a UMO I don’t know what parts I would need. Also, when found a design to use the IRobertI on the UMO (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-feeder-on-um1#!design-information) there’s almost no description on what parts are needed to build it.

 

Maybe the solution it’s just that I could build it with the parts I already have on my UMO+?

 

Well that’s all. I’m very happy to have purchased this print, the quality seems superb. I can’t wait to have mine installed and print the small little robot.

 

Notes. Yeah I know dual extruders are problematic, they can scratch prints, they are poorly implemented and mostly ain’t necessary, anyhow I need to install it.

 

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Welcome to the ultimaker club!

I'm not entirely sure why you would want to change to a UM2 feeder? From what I have read, the UM2 feeder suffers from a problem with the heat from the stepper motor transferring to the knurled bolt (its on the stepper shaft). This leads to the filament getting softened as it feeds....which leads to grinding. Gets worse on retraction heavy prints.

This is all just stuff i've read on the forums, and I dont have a UM2. The feeder on my UMO works perfectly though, even with flex pla.

 

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Hi :D

No I don't want UM2 feeder. I want to build the IRobertI feeder and adapt it to 1.75mm. That feeder it's for UM2 and there's a part that explains to use the 'existing' materials from the UM2 and that puzzles me a bit since I want it for my UMO+. Anyhow I think I figured most of it by reading github. But until my shippment arrives I wont be able to know if it's ok the idea :D

Btw about my other questions on the UMO+ And the dual extruder Gr5 did answer everything I was asking on http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7466-ultimaker-origional-and-dual-extruders/page-2&do=findComment&comment=93583

Amazing super community. Thanks a bunch guys!

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Well maintly because the cash on opened and unopened 1.75 filaments.

The advantages, as far as I know, after searching for info on how to do it, seems to be that the amount of filament that's on the head it's less, so less mass on the nozzle, that should reduce the oozing. But probably the issue could be that the motor needs to move more to push the same amount of filament...

I really have very little idea XD

But the easyer way to do it, without gluing ptfe 3mm/2mmID, as far as I could find on internet, it's a buddas ptfe that it's 6mm/2mmID, this way, you don't glue stuff on the bowden, but also isn't easy to find.

So umm advantages... For me, lots of filaments (and the 'cool' ones like wood and colorfabb,formfutura, etc). Technical advantages, no real idea.

 

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Well everything it's working fine now. I just pused a ptfe 3mm/2mm OD and left a bit out, enough so if pushed it fits, so the ptfe doesn't move once the bowden it's closed. So easy :D

The idea of using a printer feeder did fail miserably, not only the design has very big flaws (like it don't get's a nice grip to the printer or the BOM don't tell what to use to grab it to the printer, anyway I just used the one that comes with the printer, and men, that Ultimaker Original Feeder do work pushing 1.75 without any problem. I just got my first little robot at 0.060 and it just looks soooooo nice. The 1.75 conversion it's so easy I can't believe it.

This printer it's amazing, the quality it can do did blow my mind with ideas of stuff to print :D

Now I need to repair the X alignment, I just got my first failed print with the well documented problem 'Shifted layers'. I have tighten everything but after checking with a caliper, clearly there's a 0.50mm/1mm difference on the Y/X alignment. But because I don't have my calibration sticks... I'll try to print something at low quality and hopefully I will be able to align them for good.

Again, Ultimaker it's just amazing. Not only this community it's really active and there are some great 3d minds hovering around it, but also the printer does kick ass.

Now I have to wait for my Dual Extrusion Kit. Imakr did send it, but the pack didn't had one of most important parts, the full nozzle XD So I have the feeder, some wood parts, cable.. But no nozzle/isolator,etc.

Oh btw...

I did plug a 280W power supply, modifying the conector, and it just rocks. Now it has have enough power to move a small robot.

 

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Today got my first problem, the extruder stop pushing filament. After a few seconds of not knowing what was happening I did check my 3mm/2mm ptfe that was inside the bowden and it went 'further' in than the normal bowden. It was inside the thermal insulator, something that sooner or latter was going to happen (because I didn't glue them).

Luckyly today arrived my new ptfe 6mm/2mm (it was hard to find on europe but a week ago found 2 shops that got it on stock). After meassuring the ptfe and cutting it (with a exacto knife, scissors bend the tube but the exacto did a clean cut).

So finally I'm printing again, I though was the extruder but it works like a charm.

Anyhow I have order a "MK7-compatible Drive gear 8MM shaft" that I plan to put on the M8 Drive bolt, this way (in theory) I wont need to ajust anything else, maybe the Esteps, but that will be a fight for another day :D

 

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Well after 2 spolls of filament I can safely say that 1.75mm works perfectly. I just need a free weekend to test the extrusion speed.

Thinks needed:

1 mk7

1 IRobertI fabulous feeder

1 Spare bowden or ptfe6mm/3mm

1 ptfe 3mm/2mm

1 PTFE Glue. 20€ on amazon

The trick for it to work. The ptfe must go just 1/1,5cm inside the heater throat. If it goes 'beyond' the metal circle it starts to go brown fast. If it goes all the way to the nozzle the boiled filament comes goes up.

I had to adjust my esteps to 104.9 and on cura I must retract 5/5,5 to avoid oozing.

The rest it's just the stock hardware. I didn't even needed a new nozzle (I bough some but so far they are on a bag). I have printed from 15mm/s to 80mm/s without problems (adjusting the pla heat).

I think that for 1.75mm the bowden should be a bit shorter but I have not try it yet because I finally tunned everything and it just works (I been doing a lot of prints of 3-8h without problems).

So if anyone need a ready to go extruder for 1.75mm it's totally doable.

On UM2 the distance of the ptfe must be different since it has a fan cooling that area.

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