foehnsturm 969
Unfortunately not. The guys in charge of Smoothie kindly sent me a replacement board but I hadn't the time to start over again. Busy with another project at the moment.
Unfortunately not. The guys in charge of Smoothie kindly sent me a replacement board but I hadn't the time to start over again. Busy with another project at the moment.
@foehnsturm I'm making a mod head assembly for the umo+ (With that pancake motor) standard and I was wondering, how did you joined that big bronce gear to the mk7, that itself saves a lot of space for the gears. I'm going to buy a pir of gears from misumi (expensive but very compact) but I can only do a 3:1 with the available gears and I'll like to know if you think that's enough to at least extrude at a normal (50-70mm/s 0.2 layer) speed. But I suppose with more heat the force should suffice.
Edited by Guest
@neotko you need access to a lathe. I drilled the gear bore to 8mm (I think) and machined one end of the the mk7 down to this diameter. Then it's almost a press fit.
I'll try misumi gears then
If I get a lathe my wife sure kicks me. The room it's already full of stuff already. Thanks @foehnsturm !
Oh btw sorry to bother again, but @foehnsturm I also found a place for gears, (they don't look as neat as that website you linked but they are hyper cheap) hobbyking dot com
I got this:
25T/5mm M1 Hardened Steel Pinion Gear (1pc)
10T/5mm M1 Hardened Steel Pinion Gear (1pc)
M1 I suppose it's much worse than 0.5 (I have zero gear knowledge) but they are just cheap as chips.
@neotko you don't bother I just don't have enough time atm to continue with this project. But in not too far future I'll proceed with it. M1 is ok I think if you go for modest gear reduction. As I looked 1:4 or more, gears just would become too big with M1.
There are very small and affordable (ok rubbish in some way) lathes
I'll make you proud master (really I learned soo much from you!).
M1 gears are huge! This is a (module) 1 worm next to a m0.5:
The M1 gears weigh like... I don't know. 100 grams?
I chose a 13t m0.5 gear with 5mm shaft from veroma-modellbau.eu
IIRC, that link came from foensturm in this very thread.
I didn't want a heavy steel gear, so I'm pairing it with Misumi's GEABM0.5-50-3-B-5.
Yes, that gear is insanely expensive (12.70 EUR) but the quality is great. Btw Misumi doesn't have small gears. 20 teeth is minimum, so a combination is highly recommended.
/edit:
Here's the two gears. I've already mounted the M1 gears, so I can't add them to the picture. But you should get the idea: These gears are tiny. And the Misumi Nylon gear is light as a feather.
Edited by GuestI didn't went for worm gear because I saw this:
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Drive/Worm_Gears.html
That I found thorugh this:
With sinusoidal micro stepping drive the holding torque will be 0.7 times the two coil on value. I.e. 0.21Nm @ 2.5A, so 0.126Nm @ 1.5A. The torque from the pulley is only 0.016Nm assuming a reduction of 40:1, so the worm drive is only about 13% efficient if I have got my calculations right. Before I greased it, it was only half as efficient, so worm gears certainly waste a lot of effort in friction. The article here says they are between 98% and 20% for ratios 5:1 to 75:1, so I am probably in the right ball park. There will also be some friction in the bearings and pull out torque will be a bit less than holding torque, even though it is only rotating slowly.
Quote from:
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com.es/2009/10/worm-drive.html
So maybe for a feeder isn't the most efficient way to keep the torque?
Baah, too much numbers for me I only looked at the graph, which shows efficiency rates between 75 and 97%, if I read correctly.
If they were that bad like 13% efficiency no one would use them.
No, I wouldn't use a worm gear for the feeder either. This has been done before, though. And afaik it worked pretty well, too.
My M1 worm gear is used to drive the Z platform, which is why I went for such a huge thing
Edited by GuestHey great!
Does it work like intended? I would like to copy
That's a nice and clean design @thefrog I want to copy too! Looks gazillions better than my crappy adapter.
Yummy! Can you share this beauty?
Haven't had the time to test it yet.
But everything goes together nicely, so would be nice if someone could confirm if it works alright.
Will upload some STL's and instructions in a minute.
BTW you need to manufacture/machine some parts yourself to make this design work !!!
e.g. the hub of the 60t Gear has to be shortened
BTW you need to manufacture/machine some parts yourself to make this design work !!!
e.g. the hub of the 60t Gear has to be shortened
sounds familiar ...
There's a 60T gear from misumi (or I think it was 58T) that has a inner dia of 12mm. With that you could insert the mk7 inside and align the screws so both are together in love
I didn't went that path because I just found out after buying my 50T
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foehnsturm 969
The project is a little delayed because of weird cross talking issues with the smoothieboard. It's only working reliable with the screen disconnected, which is somewhat annoying for testing. Don't want to start an additional project with octoprint right now. So I ordered a smoothie-compatible board from China as an alternative. When everything is working as it's supposed to, the next step would be implementing the tool changer sequences.
I'm in touch with Ultimaker but there aren't any definite plans yet.
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macua85 52
Any updates?
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