A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer

[neotko 1,417]

This it's pure gold

[nallath 1,120]

Funny that they have oozeshield now. Cura has had that for a while now.

[neotko 1,417]

But fully configurable... Big difference

[nallath 1,120]

The slicer engine does have it configurable. New version should have it in a while.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

The slicer engine does have it configurable. New version should have it in a while.

 

Fully trust Cura will become fantastic and configurable with all the bells and whistles need ... but for the coming 6 months or so I'm very happy with this s3d upgrade

[nallath 1,120]

 

The slicer engine does have it configurable. New version should have it in a while.

 

Fully trust Cura will become fantastic and configurable with all the bells and whistles need ... but for the coming 6 months or so I'm very happy with this s3d upgrade

 

Yeah you should

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Finally got to a first print with the E3Dv6.....fail.

The start was not to bad (forgot to turn the fan on the first few mm) but it blocked later, probably due to increase in retractions...

The cooling should be ok, original E3D fanmount and got the cables out of the way, the Heatsink stayed cool.

The E3D does not use a horseshoe on the bowden connector, I think it may be a good idea to add one? without it the bowden moves a lot during retraction.

After a clog I can only get the PLA out by taking the head apart, remove the Heatsink, then warm-up the block and heatbreak. not very practical having to take the whole head apart ... any other suggestions ?

Anyone know how to do an "atomic" on a E3Dv6 ? for me it results immediately in getting the PLA stuck in the Heat Break ....

[neotko 1,417]

Maybe it needs more cooling? I mean the 5v fan of the um2 maybe uses less amps than the e3d fan? I have no idea :S

[ultiarjan 1,223]

it's 12 volt and I have it on a separate power supply ....

[jonnybischof 60]

Did you reduce the retraction distance? I read that you need to set it to 2.5mm (instead of 4.5mm Ultimaker default) for the E3D. Not sure if that only counts for direct extruders, or also Bowden type...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I'll give that a try .... any tips on unclogging or atomic without taking the whole thing apart?

[jonnybischof 60]

Tbh, I didn't have to do an atomic pull for about a year now, so I'm really not an expert on that

My Ultimaker has been working flawlessly ever since I started using only Diamond Age and Faberdashery PLA...

Edited June 29, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I don't have much luck with the E3D ... finally found the energy to get the thing unclogged (which only worked by taking it apart and by heating it up without the hot end cooling....) and started to put it back together again... securing the nozzle at 250c was not even putting a lot of force on it and the nozzle just broke of ... original E3D 0.4 nozzle....

So now I'm stuck again as I don't think I'll get the heatbreak out without damaging it, can't get good grip on the round thing..

Ok, it has it's temperature limitations with the teflon, but I'm really appreciating the UM2 hot end design more and more

[neotko 1,417]

Wow. Maybe the e3d guys can give you a hand. By mail they are very responsive and fast.

[neotko 1,417]

Btw and totally on a side note. Have you guys seen the 5axis printer? The idea it's really amazing to print really complex models. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150704-an-amazing-open-source-5-axis-3d-printer-built-by-university-of-oslo-master-student.html

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Btw and totally on a side note. Have you guys seen the 5axis printer? The idea it's really amazing to print really complex models. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150704-an-amazing-open-source-5-axis-3d-printer-built-by-university-of-oslo-master-student.html

 

Had not seen this one... there was a 5 axis at the londen 3d printshow... but it was being repared, did not see it at work.

Must be crazy complicated on slicer software I think ...

[Anders Olsson 136]

@ultiarjan Thanks! Some parts are already ordered but t'll take considerable time until something will be assembled. I went for Misumi Miniature Linear Guides and a corexy gantry.

 

Funny, I have not checked this thread for some time but I have been thinking of building something almost exactly like that lately

After playing with a Delta Tower past days I have to admit that I am slightly in love with that concept too though

 

I don't have much luck with the E3D ... finally found the energy to get the thing unclogged (which only worked by taking it apart and  by heating it up without the hot end cooling....) and started to put it back together again... securing the nozzle at 250c was not even putting a lot of force on it and the nozzle just broke of ... original E3D 0.4 nozzle....

 

That is quite surprising, but on the other hand we have tested an aluminum version of the Olsson block and came to the conclusion that aluminum is not a good choice. A brass block seems to be the most reliable option when using brass (or stainless steel) nozzles.

[gr5 2,167]

I don't think I'll get the heatbreak out without damaging it, can't get good grip on the round thing..

 

There is a common tool in the hardware store Arjan that will take that out. It is a cone shaped reverse threaded drill bit - you select the right size, put it in a drill and stick it in the hole and rotate the drill be counter clockwise - it takes things like that right out.

[foehnsturm 969]

@anders-olsson. If you come up the same ideas they cannot be that bad. Come on let's do it together ;-) The design is somewhat inspired by a youtube from a guy I'm sure you already heard of, Martin Bondéus. But I intend to use stacked laser cut steel sheets instead of a single one with bended edges and place the belts directly underneath the rails. Also thought of a delta but the effector design would require a completely different approach for automated tool changing. The XY gantry is partly assembled now but as German Post has been on strike for 3 weeks now I still have no pulleys and belts.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

 

I don't think I'll get the heatbreak out without damaging it, can't get good grip on the round thing..

 

There is a common tool in the hardware store Arjan that will take that out.  It is a cone shaped reverse threaded drill bit - you select the right size, put it in a drill and stick it in the hole and rotate the drill be counter clockwise - it takes things like that right out.

 

ok, thanks, I'll have a look on monday ...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

The design is somewhat inspired by a youtube from a guy I'm sure you already heard of, Martin Bondéus.

 

how's the stiffness of the rails? I spoke to a guy at a 3dhubs meeting last week who build a big heavy printer with rails, he used 2 stacked rails mounted on a alu profile for the head to move on. He told me never to use only one rail as the carriage  would not be stable enough to put the head on.. and always to mount it on something. It looks like Martin Bondeus just used a single unmounted rail...

Edited July 5, 2015 by Guest

[foehnsturm 969]

how's the stiffness of the rails? I spoke to a guy at a 3dhubs meeting last week who build a big heavy printer with rails, he used 2 stacked rails mounted on a alu profile for the head to move on. He told me never to use only one rail as the carriage  would not be stable enough to put the head on.. and always to mount it on something. It looks like Martin Bondeus just used a single unmounted rail...

 

I think that's true for the standard designs with heavy printheads. I want to go for a payload less than 200 gr and the rail is only 370 mm. However I may be wrong.  In that case I would support the single rail with a laser cut strut  which also incorporates the mounting plates to the moving blocks on both ends.

Edited July 5, 2015 by Guest

[mastory 44]

how's the stiffness of the rails? I spoke to a guy at a 3dhubs meeting last week who build a big heavy printer with rails, he used 2 stacked rails mounted on a alu profile for the head to move on. He told me never to use only one rail as the carriage  would not be stable enough to put the head on.. and always to mount it on something. It looks like Martin Bondeus just used a single unmounted rail...

 

It's true that profile rails are intended to mount to something that also aids their stiffness, but this advice is overly simplistic. Every system needs to be evaluated on its own merits and designed accordingly. All the relevant data is published by the manufacturers. Poor designs result from engineering guesses, miscalculations, or oversights. Possible he should have selected a larger bearing series for the span, or a different style.

[jonnybischof 60]

I wonder why you'd prefer rails over shafts & linear bearings.

I'm planning to use 12mm Misumi precision shafts & linear bearings for the immobile axis (weight is not a concern, and 12mm shafts are REALLY strong for that purpose).

The other axis will use two 8mm shafts. That should be more than stiff enough, and definitely more precise than rails (except if you use high-precision rails, which cost a fortune...)

/edit:

Note that no bronze bushings are needed, because none of the shafts in an H-bot rotates. Using good quality Misumi linear bearings (forget about the cheap reprap stuff) should get you the best possible accuracy.

Edited July 6, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I wonder why you'd prefer rails over shafts & linear bearings.

 

I'm playing with the same idea, basically the H setup like in the Builder. I'm just still in doubt if I want to go for two motors/heads mounted on it (like the BCN sigma) or to stick with the magnetic mounts... I think I'll start playing with both ideas in CAD first.