A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer

[nallath 1,120]

15.06 isn't legacy cura.

[neotko 1,417]

Oh 15.06 is the new cura? Old cura or current cura... Sorry to much cura I need a coffee

[macua85 52]

So which is the best version to use for dual extruder support, 15.06?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

hmm I understand you get confused...

15.04 and lower are old (legacy) cura, they have dual extrusion.

15.06 and higher are new (beta) cura, with no support for Dual extrusion yet.

I would be nice to have some sort of overview of changes, as for specific tasks sometimes old versions are better I believe (f.e 14.xx for spiralize printing), another example could be the changed order of outer/inner walls at some point in time etc....

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

15.04.2 is (I can give information piecewise too ).

[macua85 52]

Right, I figured out the jamming problem, and its pretty disappointing. When I built up my hot ends originally, I used cheap Chinese parts. They worked perfectly fine, no problems or wearing out. However, I thought it would be best to replace them all with OEM ultimaker parts for longevity. This is when the problems occurred. After a few hours of frustration and testing/investigation, I found that on a large retraction, filament was forming a ring between the Teflon isolator and the brass heat break in the PEEK. Now, this gap shouldn't have been there. The peek had been incorrectly machined leaving a lip above the threads so the Teflon isolator couldn't sit all the way down, and make contact with the brass piece. I gently dremeled it out, and now have no jamming. Wasted 3 nights this week on that problem!

So with that fixed, now on to the next problem. I am having some trouble with the heaters. It takes an age to get them up to 213 degrees, and only one of them will get up to 260. So I guess I have one faulty one. However the one that does reach full temp, takes around 10mins to get there, and cant hold it. As soon as the parts cooling fan comes on the temp starts to drop, and heater cant keep up. The fan isn't pointing on to the nozzle. Maybe its getting deflected off bed? Or my other theory is that my main board is bad, is that possible in a way that is would affect heaters? Its a cheap Chinese copy, not OEM. Also running electronics cooling fan, and 2 x 40mm fans from the board (it had 4 fan connections, which is nice). Any ideas guys?

Edited October 10, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

My experiences with the peek and isolators have a lot of leaks in the past. With a gazillion assemble/disassemble the peek molds around and becomes flexible and if you tight the head by the barrel sometimes the barrel screws deforms the top area letting the barrel to go higher than what it should be. This pushes the ptfe up just enough to make a leak in between. My use way to avoid it's to never tight the peek/barrel after assembled. And on cold I inspect the barrel/ptfe connection.

The problem with new parts it's that they tent to slide, so I connect all on cold (if new) and leave all tight with the nozzle a bit not touching the alu block, and then while hot I tight this. I do the imposible to not tight the peek while hot, because it deforms. For my this happened with the original peeks and the china ones.

And that's why also I really hate to change nozzles on umo

Edited October 10, 2015 by Guest

[macua85 52]

The only way it will leak though is if the isolator doesn't seat properly on top of the brass tube, that's what was happening to mine. Due to bad machining. And also causing jamming as the filament was cooling into this groove.

China parts were all good for me!

[neotko 1,417]

It depends on the seller. I have some very nice parts from aliexpress and also some horrible. Also I got some great bowden ptfe 6/2 from china and an amazing horrible one from a shop nearby.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I normally don't check the German section... but here's something interesting...

@Crema seems to have dripping under control with water cooling... think this combined with a lift system could be real nice.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17656-ultimaker-2-dual-extruder-einstellen#reply-121567

[neotko 1,417]

Saw that post, the prints seem quite nice.

Just wanted that I added the beta wiper STL's to the youmagine files.

I can't add documentation right now properly or finish it since I'm going to be really busy for the next month or so to touch the printers. So the if anyone it's interested, the beta might give someone an idea to do it better. It uses:

- x1 Axis 5mm for Motor Emax GT3520. Basically a 5mm shaft.

- x2 5mm id bearings, 16mm od, 5mm width. Had some on a box I can't remember the model.

- At least 1 Cooking Silicone Spatula (most of them are made to go 250-260C). Cut the piece and use some m3 to add it to the wiper. The height should be around 12-15mm but depends on the nozzle used.

I'll try to upload some images of it assembled, but the ones posted pages ago will give an idea.

To make it work it need's an script to make the bed move to z18/z19 then a wipe movement coded and then return to the current_z. So far the script it's done in Simplify3D toolchange, but I need to tune it. Also after the head arrives to z18/19 the script must stop to avoid collisions, I do this by splitting the job in 2.

Edited October 16, 2015 by Guest

[foehnsturm 969]

Next week will be interesting.

@anders-olsson pointed me to this stepper.

[neotko 1,417]

Holy, so small...

[zoev89 73]

That is indeed a small stepper. How does it compare against the flex drive solution?

[Anders Olsson 136]

I haven't had time to develop my version as much yet, but it works quite well so far.

Whoever claimed you can not use retraction when printing ninjaflex are wrong by the way:

Edited October 17, 2015 by Guest

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Spotted something else too on that picture...

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Next week will be interesting.

 

like the open design!

[foehnsturm 969]

I'm trying to change my designing habits. 5 shell loops so adjacent structures touch each other. Perimeter lines rock, surface and infill is for wimps

[macua85 52]

That looks interesting. Is that the e3d with the liner all the way to the hot end? How will the print head attach?

[foehnsturm 969]

Yes, it's the E3D Lite. As I can see so far, the inliner locking mechanism with a tiny collet is at least questionable when the end of the tube happens to be flush with the collect. If you push against the tube, everything is ok. If you accidentally push against the collet, the inliner gets loose.

The magnetic coupling plate is still missing.

[jonnybischof 60]

@foehnsturm, that design looks very nice

Is it a big improvement over the NEMA8 stepper with worm gears? How much does that flat motor weigh?

[foehnsturm 969]

Weight is the same, but three times more torque.

[macua85 52]

wow, quite a difference. This is looking very interesting. As it's not a worm drive design, i'm assuming its a much simpler design in terms of the mechanics of the feeder and the 'custom' work.

[foehnsturm 969]

Yeah, it's a simple 1:4 (10:40 teeth) gear. If there was a combined part for the drive wheel and the 40 teeth gear, the whole box would be just 20 mm thick. Right now it's 30 mm

[neotko 1,417]

@foehnsturm have you check this one? http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/9deg-thin-stepper-motor-125mm-05a-7ncm10ozin-14hr050504s-p-88.html It's almost half the price of the one of your img and only a bit less force. I think I saw a version with the teeth attached by default somewhere.

Edit: Found it again. I saw this one with teeth attached but it has less torque http://m.aliexpress.com/item-desc/2020749064.html

Edited October 19, 2015 by Guest