A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer

[SandervG 1,521]

Looks pretty good, congratulations!!

[macua85 52]

Quality is looking great, magnets seem to be holding the head well at those speeds too. Are you still using the same 2 magnet setup?

[foehnsturm 969]

Exactly the same setup. I want to use the "old" worm gear print heads for 3 mm filament on the corexy as well. Speed and mass inertia are no problem. The print head only fell down twice in the beginning when there was heavy over-extrusion and it caught a raised edge.

Edited November 5, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Just wondering since this It's a bit out of topic but has been mentioned before.

Since e3d lite works with pla (has inner ptfe linner). Doesn't that means that with the e3d lite and an extra barrel someone could print pla 1.75 with reliability and other 230C+ materials on 2.85mm just by changing the barrel/nozzle? A dual e3d head one with 1.75 for pla and other for 2.85mm abs/nylon should in theory work right? And since they are totally diferent kind of materials shouldn't be much problematic, specially if someone uses the pancake direct drive like anders-olsson / foehnsturm

Ofc for single extruder using the e3d lite with pt100 and a set of barrel/nozzle to change would allow to change from one material to other and a new bowden to change from 1.75 to 2.85mm fast. Also the one that gr5 sells on his shop has the inner ptfe notglued so it would be even faster to swap stuff.

Dropping ideas

Edited November 10, 2015 by Guest

[stefan787 4]

He guy,

First of all! I really love what you guys are doing.

And i am going to join you guy with this. First I am going to make this Ultimaker clone:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271

But i am going to make it a bit bigger, I am aiming at a build plate of 400X400mm

And when that is done i am getting this sick mod. I hope to also help you guys a litte bit as well. You guys have done a lot of stuff already, but i hope to help

[foehnsturm 969]

... some progress. Learned how to print reliable with PLA HT and finished the first dock.

[neotko 1,417]

The extruder fan air input doesn't choke by the side?

The clamp looks quite clean

[foehnsturm 969]

The extruder fan air input doesn't choke by the side?

Time will tell, it's only blocked to some 40%. I'm more afraid the bottom of the stepper is too hot for the regular PLA the dock is printed with.

Now it's time to start thinking about my nozzle cleaning device. I'd like to use a small geared motor and some brushes as a first attempt.

[stefan787 4]

... some progress. Learned how to print reliable with PLA HT and finished the first dock.

Is there really a big advantage that the extruder is on the print head?

[neotko 1,417]

On my tests with stuff to clean the nozzle my best cleanings where with silicon (the ones used for cooking) and cutting the top area to make it like a brush, then moving the head on the brush area fast. The metal brushes tend to kill the brass bit by bit.

[foehnsturm 969]

good point. So with a motor a typical fan grinder but made of silicone would be nice.

[neotko 1,417]

Indeed. That sounds great. This it's what I use on my cleaning system, but with more and spinning that should be fantastic.

The upper part, hard to see, I used a cutter to make it like a brush. The two holes on the bottom are what I use to screw it on the plastic part.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

... some progress. Learned how to print reliable with PLA HT and finished the first dock.

Looks real nice... is this the PLA that needs to be backed in the oven after printing? what settings did you use?

[foehnsturm 969]

no, there is an older thread about PLA HT https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/9754-pla-ht

Besides its high temperature resistance and tensile strength its quite soft, the surface feels somewhat waxy. I grinded it in the feeder most times until I switched to a 0.8 mm nozzle for less backpressure. And you !must not! use a fan for the first layer otherwise it doesn't stick at all. Printing temp was 210°C, layer 0.15 mm

Edited November 12, 2015 by Guest

[foehnsturm 969]

BTW: bioFila just announced plaTec with a softening temperature of 120°C ! I should receive a sample the next days.

[neotko 1,417]

Holy...

[Labern 774]

sounds awesome, As long as it prints like PLA

[jonnybischof 60]

no, there is an older thread about PLA HT https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/9754-pla-ht

Besides its high temperature resistance and tensile strength its quite soft, the surface feels somewhat waxy. I grinded it in the feeder most times until I switched to a 0.8 mm nozzle for less backpressure. And you !must not! use a fan for the first layer otherwise it doesn't stick at all. Printing temp was 210°C, layer 0.15 mm

So PLA-HT is probably very similar to Orbi-Tech's PLA90. I hated that PLA because it was pretty much useless. It was so soft that printed parts would actually deform by their own weight after some time...

@Stefan787

If you want to make your build area that much bigger, you should take into account that the longer you make your gantry shafts, the more difficulties you'll have to get precise prints. Shafts are never 100% straight, and the longer they are, the worse they "may" get (depends heavily on the quality of the shafts!).

Not wanting to go too off-topic here, but you'll find more discussions about that somewhere in the forum... Also about the direct extruder vs bowden.

[stefan787 4]

@Stefan787

If you want to make your build area that much bigger, you should take into account that the longer you make your gantry shafts, the more difficulties you'll have to get precise prints. Shafts are never 100% straight, and the longer they are, the worse they "may" get (depends heavily on the quality of the shafts!).

Not wanting to go too off-topic here, but you'll find more discussions about that somewhere in the forum... Also about the direct extruder vs bowden.

 

Well i want to make them around 500mm that should not be that big of a deal?

And how hard it is to print ninjaflex with a bowden?

Edited November 12, 2015 by Guest

[Labern 774]

It's very hard to get it to print and can't print anything with good quality.

[macua85 52]

Labern, I disagree there. I've printed ninjaflex with great results. I printed pretty hot ~240, and slow. Also run the filament through an oil soaked sponge to lube it up for the bowden. It's an impressive filament.

[Labern 774]

That's good you have had great results.

My point is more between how it prints in a bowden machine compared to Anders ultibot with direct drive.

I have seen warnings that it's not ment to be printed hotter than 230 degrees or it produces toxic fumes. But I haven't researched this myself.

[jhertzberg 19]

 

@Stefan787

If you want to make your build area that much bigger, you should take into account that the longer you make your gantry shafts, the more difficulties you'll have to get precise prints. Shafts are never 100% straight, and the longer they are, the worse they "may" get (depends heavily on the quality of the shafts!).

Not wanting to go too off-topic here, but you'll find more discussions about that somewhere in the forum... Also about the direct extruder vs bowden.

 

Well i want to make them around 500mm that should not be that big of a deal?

And how hard it is to print ninjaflex with a bowden?

 

stefan787, you may also need to add two more leadscrews to support the bed at the front sides, since additional weight of a larger bed will likely be enough to make the front side droop.

I print semiFlex slowly (15mm/s) through the bowden. It helps to run a tiny bit of sewing machine oil through it first, and to print a bit hot.

[stefan787 4]

 

 

@Stefan787

If you want to make your build area that much bigger, you should take into account that the longer you make your gantry shafts, the more difficulties you'll have to get precise prints. Shafts are never 100% straight, and the longer they are, the worse they "may" get (depends heavily on the quality of the shafts!).

Not wanting to go too off-topic here, but you'll find more discussions about that somewhere in the forum... Also about the direct extruder vs bowden.

 

Well i want to make them around 500mm that should not be that big of a deal?

And how hard it is to print ninjaflex with a bowden?

 

stefan787, you may also need to add two more leadscrews to support the bed at the front sides, since additional weight of a larger bed will likely be enough to make the front side droop.

I print semiFlex slowly (15mm/s) through the bowden. It helps to run a tiny bit of sewing machine oil through it first, and to print a bit hot.

 

Oke so there is a change that it will work with bowden, but it a bit hard. i also could make a hotend with @foehnsturm`s extruder on op of it.

And the dual leadscrews is a good idea.

Edited November 13, 2015 by Guest

[jonnybischof 60]

...

Well i want to make them around 500mm that should not be that big of a deal?

...

 

If you get the usual chinese or "reprap quality" stuff, then yes you will most likely have problems, like heavy ringing and wavy "straight" lines.

Imagine your shafts heavily bent like bananas, then imagine what that would do to the "linear" movements. Now, in reality the bend will be much smaller, but the effect remains the same.

If you have access to above-industry-standard quality like Misumi shafts, then it might work well.

Also the platform weight will be a big issue. You might need a stronger motor - or one motor for every leadscrew (be that two or three) to move the platform reliably.

As mentioned before - we're going waaay off-topic here. Please open a new topic if you have more questions about your project.

Edited November 13, 2015 by Guest