Yeah I have printed other faun shrouds and had problems with having the whole nozzle exposed like that with the air rebounding off the glass or larger prints and cooling the temp sensor block.
Also why have you decided to put a deflector covering one side where the missing hot end goes?
Like the idea of splitting the fan holder in 2 parts, but on the other hand access to the heaterblock is not important to me anymore since I use Anders Olsson's block with removable nozzle. I wonder if there are negative effects of having the complete block exposed.
My experience till now is that a printed holder (tried another design in XT) will deform over time.
Why did you put the fans horizontal ? My gut feeling says the flow is more logical when mounted diagonal like in the original design.
I would realy like to see a metal version designed for single extruder from UM.
@ TinkerGnome
Yes, this definitely hits the sliderblock ! It's limited to the hight of the upper metal plate in the nozzle block.
I know this because i made an own fan shroud design wich had this problem and im still working on one, now seeing this new approach of mnis i will probably redesign mine with some of this good ideas..
Hello everyone and thank you for your many contributions / opinions.
After this probably very long answer I will make the fan cages available. I want not to disappoint anyone. The reason for this decision: I can not currently working on this little project, because my wife is abruptly ill and I do not know how it will go on...
@Didier Klein :smile:
Of course, I am aware that PLA is almost completely unsuitable actually for such applications. But PLA-printing with PLA fans-cage... I'm actually surprised because maybe up to 5 minutes without active "side-fans", and the PLA does not deform. During the heating phase, only the rear-fan is running. While the first layer is deposited at 220 degrees, no side-fan is still running and I do not see any change ... In the second layer, started the side-fans to work (Cura-v15.01 Expert setting: Fan full on at hight is 1mm)...
OK, there is little visible deformations (curves) in the hottest zones, and I think this is absolutely un-critical, but without active side-fans during storage of particularly large first layers it will be quite sure to be a problem.
So far, no heater failure...
The Ultimaker Machine display shows me a very stable temperature behavior + - 1 degrees throughout the printing time, I have no idea how reliable this information is. I usually had the fans at 75 percent max...
More than 220 degrees, I have not been tested. The printer is not in a cabin, the room temperature is usually 21 degrees. Unfortunately I currently do not have time for more intensive testing at higher temperatures...
But I have recently found that the side-fans directly to the machine operations, such as: "Heatup nozzle", can be activated manually. Since when is there this great feature?...I may once again a bit sleepy?
I think at a 45 degree position of the side fans, more heat is sucked in from the working surface, but I do not have suitable measuring Equippment for a confirmation of this conjecture...
I hope I understood your question correctly:
The reflector directs more fresh air to the ColdEnd (Teflon piece). And the deflector creates suction and so draws the air by his back to the front, I think, I believe, I mean :ph34r: Anyway, there is for air only one way forward, this is even clearly perceptible.
In addition, the two-chamber system directs the heat above the lower aluminum plate away much more effective. You can actually feel a little storm. And right after a completed print session when the print head so moves to the home position, you can clearly feel with your fingers that the lower aluminum plate is almost cool :shock:
Again, I'm not quite sure I really understand everything correctly:
However, the main concept of this fans-cages is intended for Ultimaker 2 in its original version, and maybe, I do not know yet, is it compatible without modification to the two new models...
Initially I had in mind because the Hotend is not encapsulated, but the only way I can prevent heat accumulation below the aluminum plate. Have you already discovered the many small holes in the cages? The channels carry some air upwards, ie on the Hotend beyond.
Sorry, but I have no profound idea of aerodynamics, it is much more trial and error...Maybe someone can later visualize the exact operation of this fans cages for Us?
The question regarding positioning of the fans I've already tried earlier to answer.
And also I would like very much to see exactly this fan cages in glistening metal and have of course :smile:
No there is no danger of collision with respect to the slider blocks.
Between fan and slider block is a gap of at least > 1 mm. However, I am referring to a correct replication and original design. The total height seems to confuse many, I think. The total width of the fan-cages is ~1mm close to the original design. And the total depth of the fan cages is almost 5mm below the original designs.
You lose almost no space, so please refer to the pages 1,2,3 and 16 in the original size. A finished printed and already mounted object may perhaps have small deviations in dimensions, so everyone should measure it once.
Certainly, anyone can make suggestions, but I can not currently make any improvements. Therefore, I will also publish the source files and look forward when someone wants to perfect and present the design. Disclosure of modifications is certainly desirable for all Ultimaker users. Therefore, I hope it is an unwritten law for many.
And now, unfortunately I did not understand your suggestion, please explain it in more Detail :smile:
Perhaps you meant a Snap feature, so that the fan cages can be fixed and replaced without any screw?
Tip:
You can in the use of CPv9 while the printer is printing, touch the bottom aluminum plate with your finger for a long time without fear of burning or pain. In this test case, the fan speed is above 60 percent ...Make this little test rather NEVER with the original fan-cages, Ouch...Ouch...Ouch...
Even more:
The Rear fan from the print head of my Ultimaker 2, has another small additional feature that is not absolutely necessary, but easy to implement.
This fan is switched automatically with a bimetal thermal switch so that the printer is idle makes absolutely no noise.
The thermal switch will always turn the fan with some delay ON when the top aluminum plate heated to more than 40 degrees. CPv9 is so powerful, that it is no longer 40 degrees above are achieved, the rear fan remains OFF as CPv9 works with medium to high power setting. Only with active Hotend and low CPv9 fan power setting, the rear fan is activated ...
Thank you, dear Ultimaker community :smile:
Markus
Download it from here please...
CPv9-LINK: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cpv9
I have had another look at your drawing and now can see that the fan shrouds are blowing air on the cold end and the printed part.
By doing this are you trying to increase the life of the PTFE coupler?
It would be interesting to measure the temperature difference (if any) at the point the PTFE coupler touches the Hot end Heater Block. (as this is where it deforms). comparing your fan shroud with the original. PTFE has low heat transfer so cooling the top may have little or no effect at the bottom. As with the Stainless isolator.
I have had another look at your drawing and now can see that the fan shrouds are blowing air on the cold end and the printed part.
By doing this are you trying to increase the life of the PTFE coupler?
It would be interesting to measure the temperature difference (if any) at the point the PTFE coupler touches the Hot end Heater Block. (as this is where it deforms). comparing your fan shroud with the original. PTFE has low heat transfer so cooling the top may have little or no effect at the bottom. As with the Stainless isolator.
EldRick did something similar and has reported that it has had a significant impact on the life of the PTFE coupler.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6084-um2-bowden-block-cooling-improvement/
EldRick did something similar and has reported that it has had a significant impact on the life of the PTFE coupler.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6084-um2-bowden-block-cooling-improvement/
I'm not saying I don't believe this claim but it would be good to back it up with factual numbers not assumptions that it makes an effect. That way you can see how much of an effect and make further adjustments to keep improving your design. If it's cools very well then you could adjust and allow more airflow on the printed part etc..
Sorry, but I have no profound idea of aerodynamics, it is much more trial and error...Maybe someone can later visualize the exact operation of this fans cages for Us?
If I get the CAD Files and some details about the Fan (Datasheet) I could make that...
BTW maybe replace the old fans for something more powerful ...
With the new Version the Fans have to be at the height of the upper metal plate... (if you want to have 2mm tolerance)
Thank you people for the very active participation
First, I quote myself and am very glad I wrote it:
"However, the main concept of this fans-cages is Intended for Ultimaker 2 in its original version, and maybe, I do not know yet, is it compatible without modification to the two new models ...". Perhaps could I better write: "... to all newer UM2 similar machines.
Oh, this I had also written: "However, I am Referring to a correct replication and original design."
Anyway...VISUAL-A operates or has already made adjustments for the different from the original model, also I am very pleased and can not wait to see some of it. And also I have modified CPv9 fan cages almost done. Because it is supposed to be a good solution for all. So you can decide which solution best fits your requirements at the end.
YES, I try to keep the ColdEnd cold :smile:
I know that the transition zone from Hotend to ColdEnd the most critical area is. It is indeed very difficult to cool a piece of plastic in a uniform, it acts just like an insulator everywhere, especially when the heat comes from below.
In fact, my understanding is that the perforated insulator-screw should keep in basic form, the ColdEnd, and cool. This screw has direct contact with the bottom aluminum plate. Both aluminum panels, the aluminum heat sink, and the little rear fan should give priority cool the ColdEnd. In this scenario, the entire print head needs to be cooled so that the ColdEnd can be kept as cool as possible.
The small rear fan is undersized for Dual Head with Single Head perhaps sufficiently, I think CPv9 makes the rear fan actually almost superfluous.
That's why I try to cool the entire print head with the side fans:
With CPv9 the heat of the entire print-head construction is greatly reduced and taken away immediately, this is possibly more scope for further experiments. Maybe it works then even with ColdEnds of ceramic or metal and PLA no longer sticks to these materials.
Yes, but the rear-fan at my UM2 is for quite some time depending on the temperature automatically active / inactive, this is controlled very simple means of a thermal switch. I have subsequently made in one of the posts from this thread corresponding explanations.
Big Sorry for the big confusion, I now know a little more respect UM2 modifications. But area0404 your black fan cages look better than mine. I think black filament should I order in any case... :lol: ...And again area0404, your question makes sense, it must be cooled only around the nozzle in the ideal case. But with increasing speed and temperature, much larger areas of an object must be cooled as quickly as possible, I think...
Thank you and I have already begun to create lower Versions. 
@all: If I still owe someone an answer, then I apologize. :oops:
Markus
This Version was slightly touching with the screw on them, so allready printed the right side in a size with better clearance this picture shows the old (left) and new (right) design:
And here is a picture of the actual model rendered with red higlighted support structure:
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DidierKlein 729
Hi
Interesting design, i tried my self to have some kind of similar approach to you (Splitting the fan shrouds in two) but using the same type of screws and position as the original one. My design is ugly
but i tested it a couple of hours and it seems to print good. I don't have any deformation of the material (PLA).
Do you think they will melt if printed in PLA? (if you print at 230°c for example)
Do you have any problems with the temp sensor (being more exposed)?
I like the idea, does the position of the fans increase the airflow a lot (compared to the 45° position?)
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