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Hello,

I hope I'm not in the wrong place. :)

As I'm new in the forum, let me introduce myself (a little bit).

I'm from Paris and I came in the 3D printing world 2years ago.

I built a RepRap printer 1-1/2 Years ago (OrdBot Hadron) and I'm part of a FabLab that bought a UM2 printer.

After looking the UM2 so many times at the FabLab and using it, I became very jealous so I decided to build one (as the source are available, that my budget is low and that i like to build stuff).

The reason I decided to do that:

1) The UM2 is good looking and container things in a box (you can store it easily).

2) It's making great print and in silent, compare to the noise OrdBot

3) Like many RepRap printer mine as 2 - Z motors that can be a problem in some cases.

4) The UM has a Bowden extruder (better than mine, in my point of view).

My electronic is a Modified Marlin that is compatible with Cura (iIuse to slice with Kisslicer...but Cura is so great :) ) and now i'm only using Cura.

I started to make "the box" with laser cut. And to integrate my "Electronic" in the UM2 box.

And now I'm wondering myself, why keeping my Ramp + Arduino, maybe i could buy an UM PCB.

So here is my question :

What is the diffrence between a Full V1.5.7 and V2.x

(By Full V1.5.7 i mean the V1.5.7 PCB + Arduino Mega + Heated bed) ?

Thank you for reading.

Best

JL

PS : As many people here English is my Second language so i'm sorry for my bad spelling.

 

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(Sinon on peut aussi te répondre en français dans la section francophone ;) )

The 1.5 electronics can't drive directly an heated bed, you need additional hardware (Relay, ...) -- It is not a big issue per say, but if you don't have any board, then it is easier to go with the v2 board which has 'everything'.

Other than that the V2 board is all-in-one and does not need separate Arduino, stepper drivers, ...

Also it does not need active cooling.

 

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V2 does software based motor power levels. V2 does not need additional cooling on stepper drivers. V2 has a safety circuit which could be used with thermo switches (currently unused in any of our printers) V2 is 24V instead of 19V. V2 uses PT100s instead of thermocouples.

 

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The UM2 also typically comes with a different display.

If you do build your own UM2 I would use this feeder instead:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

Building a UMO is so much easier because you can find 3d printable parts for many things such as the "blocks" which slide on the 4 top belts and the print head itself. Or you can laser cut a huge amount of parts from wood.

Anyway, good luck!

 

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Hello,

Wow, thank's to all of you, that was fast.

Merci Amedee

And thank you Daid & gr5.

I don't know the diffrence between PT100s instead of thermocouples.

To Amedee yes maybe but the UM 1.5.7 is very cheap now and the V2 i couldn't find it yet.

To gr5, for the feeder i was thinking of printing one of this 3 :

1) The link you sent me

2) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2#!design-documents

3) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-feeder-sp3d-version

I started to built a UM2 and i think it would have been much easyer to build a UMO.

But the box is already done, i have modified the "facade" and desolder my SD card older. But did a lot of mystakes.

Here is a picture of how it is now :

 

 

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You should be able to get the board from Ultimaker. They are for sale at Ultimaker USA so they should be for sale in Netherlands. I know it's not listed on their website but I think if you ask them, possibly you can get one. I don't think fbrc8 will ship one to France as they have already been shipped from Netherlands to USA:

http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/electronics-pack-1

 

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Basic arduino is not capable of handling the PT100. I think maybe because the resistance doesn't change much. PT100's are nicer than normal thermisters. They are made out of platinum and can handle temperatures higher than thermistors. For the nozzle there is no thermistor that can handle those temps - 250C to 300C. So the UMO uses a thermocouple which works great easily up to 300C. The bed usually uses a thermistor since it never gets hotter than 110C and thermistors are much easier to work with than thermocouples. Thermocouples also need more electronics (arduino can't read those directly either - really only the heated bed thermistor).

The other nice thing about PT100 is they are ALL THE SAME. They are all 25C at 100 ohms (20C at 108 ohms). All of them. Whereas thermistors are all different. There are a thousand different types. With different curves. A 10K thermistor is 10K at 25C but at 30C it depends on the Alpha or Beta value and every manufacturer is different.

 

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I'm learning a lot and I think that i understood. So it would be better to use PT100.

But if i want to use my actual J-head (at least in the biginning) will it work with the UM2 V2 PCB or do i need to change the thermistors ?

Is the V2 can work with "Arduino 4lines screen" ?

An other option, I could stay using my Arduino with the PCB 1.5.7 installing on it the steppers from my ramps ? Will it work fine ?

And correct me if i'm wrong in the V1.5.7 i can connect an heated bed ? Or do i need the heater board ? (As i have the Arduino and the 1.5.7 PCB is very cheap compare to the V2).

And i have a 30A 12V power supply (With heated bed connection).

Thank you.

PS : Is Arkanoide working in the UM Original ? :)

 

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The UMO and 1.5.7 board are reprap style and compatible with most reprap style equipment. You can build Marlin here for the 1.5.7 board:

http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

As you can see at the website it lets you select many different thermistors or a thermocouple for the bed and for the nozzle. It does *not* let you choose a PT100. Thermocouples and PT100 need extra electronics between the device and the 1.5.7 board. Thermistors don't need anything special (except perhaps solder in a 4.7K resistor).

If you already have a working reprap printer you could probably use the nozzle and temperature probe from that. What do you have now to measure nozzle temperature?

Regarding heated bed - 12V, 30Amps is plenty. That would probably be a separate power supply for the bed alone. The 1.5.7 board should work fine with 12V but it works better with 19V (more voltage to the stepper motors and nozzle).

There are two common ways to hook up a heated bed to the 1.5.7 electronics. One is to use the existing circuit on the 1.5.7 to ground (through the built in mosfet) the heated bed and to put power on the other side. A more common implementation is to wire the existing "heated bed" connector to the coil of a relay and use that relay to control power to the heated bed.

A thermistor is an excellent solution for the heated bed temperature sensor but don't get just any thermistor - get one of the commonly used reprap thermistors that are listed in the marlin builder website - get the exact part number because each manufacturer makes different kinds of thermistors.

A pt100 will work but again you need extra electronics found on the UM2 board only. Or you have to design your own. Plus marlin builder doesn't know the tables for PT100.

 

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Thank you gr5.

I have all i wanted to know and understand.

So right now I have two solutions.

1 ) I stay with my Reprap component (i have a Marlin firmware and Reprap 100K Ohm NTC Thermistors that work great (i think) with Arduino Mega and Ramps

2 ) I change the Ramps for a Cheap UM1 V1.5.7 board

I both cases, I should be able to install the UM Marlin in my Arduino, to make fully compatible with Cura.

 

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The UMO and 1.5.7 board are reprap style and compatible with most reprap style equipment. You can build Marlin here for the 1.5.7 board:

http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

As you can see at the website it lets you select many different thermistors or a thermocouple for the bed and for the nozzle. It does *not* let you choose a PT100. Thermocouples and PT100 need extra electronics between the device and the 1.5.7 board. Thermistors don't need anything special (except perhaps solder in a 4.7K resistor).

...

A pt100 will work but again you need extra electronics found on the UM2 board only. Or you have to design your own. Plus marlin builder doesn't know the tables for PT100.

 

If you do need to build Marlin for an Ultimaker with a PT100, try this builder instead: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/

It certainly saved me when I added the official HBK to my UMO with dual extruders and direct drive. It is a bit more limited, but you might not need any more.

 

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I'm learning a lot and I think that i understood. So it would be better to use PT100.

But if i want to use my actual J-head (at least in the biginning) will it work with the UM2 V2 PCB or do i need to change the thermistors ?

Is the V2 can work with "Arduino 4lines screen" ?

An other option, I could stay using my Arduino with the PCB 1.5.7 installing on it the steppers from my ramps ? Will it work fine ?

And correct me if i'm wrong in the V1.5.7 i can connect an heated bed ? Or do i need the heater board ? (As i have the Arduino and the 1.5.7 PCB is very cheap compare to the V2).

And i have a 30A 12V power supply (With heated bed connection).

Thank you.

PS : Is Arkanoide working in the UM Original ? :)

 

The V2 electronics can be used in the 4 line character screen (it's done like that for the UMO+)

The game won't work there. Because it requires the UM2 display (full graphical)

The 1.5.7 electronics has a heated bed connection, however, you should not use it. The power supply connector and traces where not properly designed and cannot handle the amount of power needed for a heated bed.

I would not recommend the 1.5.7 electronics for any new build. The V2 simply saves you a lot of trouble.

Connecting a themistor to the V2 electronics is a bit more work. As the default temperature measure circuit is build for PT100. But there are analog pins available on the board that you can use for everything you want.

 

 

Is that a game? There's not much room for a game in Marlin.

 

There is ALWAYS room for a game :-)

(It's hidden in the code, does not use any extra ram, and only like 2k of flash, which there is more then enough of in the UM2)

 

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The UMO and 1.5.7 board are reprap style and compatible with most reprap style equipment. You can build Marlin here for the 1.5.7 board:

http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

..... Plus marlin builder doesn't know the tables for PT100.

 

If you do need to build Marlin for an Ultimaker with a PT100, try this builder instead: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/

 

It certainly saved me when I added the official HBK to my UMO with dual extruders and direct drive. It is a bit more limited, but you might not need any more.

 

To jhertzberg : Did you meant "do not" instead of "do" ?

I just had a quick look last night but Malin Builder look's great.

I will try it soon.

Thank you

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Thank you Daid

I don't know if you can see in my picture that i already installed a 4lines screen. (So i did modified the drawing to fit my screen). Instead of buying a new one, and i did glue it to the "facade" ...ha ha...

I saw that the heated bed on the v1.5.7 needed a "Relay".

So i have now 2 options :

1) I stay with my Arduino and Ramp

2) I go for the V2. (And forget about the cheap v1.5.7 i saw on the web).

Dade, just to know, the game could be installed in any Marlin with "full graphical screen" ?

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The V2 electronics can be used in the 4 line character screen (it's done like that for the UMO+)

The game won't work there. Because it requires the UM2 display (full graphical)

 

Indeed it won't work with the Ulticontroller, but with the Full Graphic Smart Controller from RepRap Discount maybe...

... Need to investigate that :rolleyes:

It has no use at all, which makes it essential by definition...

 

 

To jhertzberg : Did you meant "do not" instead of "do" ?

 

 

No, it was really a 'do'. It allows you to build a firmware for a 1.5.x board with a PT100 sensor -- but that doesn't mean you can hook a PT100 directly to the board, you still have to make it work from an electrical/electronic point of view...

(Not that I would recommend this, but wanted to clarify)

 

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Indeed it won't work with the Ulticontroller, but with the Full Graphic Smart Controller from RepRap Discount maybe...

... Need to investigate that :rolleyes:

It has no use at all, which makes it essential by definition...

 

I think it should work ?

For the PT100 i do understand that it's better but my thermocouple are working great or seams to (i think so)

 

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Despite what Daid seems to be recommending - the 1.5.7 electronics and the UMO are exellent and the UMO prints with just as good quality (in my opinion - I have both machines).

So if it were me, even though I am an electrical engineer, I would go with the much simpler 1.5.7 and use your exsiting thermocouple and it's electronics since you seem to already have this.

Does your existing thermocouple work with an AD595? Do you already have an AD595 circuit board that goes with your thermocouple? Because if you have this already and can hook it up to the 1.5.7 then that seems to me much cheaper and easier than going for the UM2 board.

I'm not sure that the PT100 is much better than the thermocouple solution.

 

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I tend to agree on that. I have an old UMO (1.5.3!) and an UMO+ (2.X), and I don't see any difference in term of temperature stability.

Obviously having an all-in-one board that does not require active cooling is much nicer, but if you are on budget the 1.5x route is a good alternative, especially if you already have part of the hardware...

 

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Having separates makes it a lot easier to switch out the stepper motor drivers. I think one of my best bang for the buck upgrades was switching to the much quieter TMC2100 drivers, just because I can run really long prints without the noise driving everyone in the house crazy. Much more challenging to put such an upgrade on a UM2 board.

Though I would still look at the possibility of maybe going with a smoothieboard derivative.

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