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Ultimaker2 modular printhead

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Just a first step before I can even begin to participate to the magnetic head design.

I'm thinking of participating with a design that stays as close a posible to the original UM2 design.




My first prototype of a modular, printhead for the Ultimaker2, the XY rod base is basically a miror of foehnsturm's design, with a few alterations to make space for the long screws in the head. It had to be mirrored as the XY axis of the UMO and UM2 are switched (top/bottom), I have no idea why UM did this...





I thought I just show you the first prototype, including the design flaws. I really only see the mistakes when I have the printed prototype :-P



list of things todo...


Forgot to make room for 2 screwheads on top of the metal plate, that's why there is an unintended gap between main plastic & metal.


One of the lineair bearings is a bit to loos (solved it by adding a piece of post-it), this may be because of the print orientation ( foehnsturm what orientation did you print in?)


Create more space for the screws of the fan holder on the right side.


More space for the screwhead of the left-front screw.


When starting a print the head bumps into the front, I'll shave a few mm of the design, and if this does not help I'm afraid I need some help in altering the start position in firmware (im using tinkergnomes version)


When leveling the bed the head is almost touching the right wall, same solution as above.


Round the corners, make it look nicer.


Want to ad something to nicely hold the wires.


20150225 07485720150225 20102320150225 20103420150225 20111120150225 202247print



Who said the UM2 was not for tinkering ;)


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Hi Arjan,

Congrats, a first attempt that already works. I don't see that happening often ...

I haven't got an UM2 so please forgive me if I'm asking silly questions ...

If you replace the long screws with shorter ones would it be possible to mount the metal assembly directly to the (maybe a little thicker) bottom plate of the plastic part?

If so and if the bowden fitting could be moved downwards, the thick plate on top wouldn't be needed any longer?


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Yeah trying to make things smaller is on the to do list. Beacause of the asimetrical placement of axis i think i cant avoid loosing a tiny bit of space in thw front so before continuing ill first focus on learning how to addapt the firmware to be able to print safely with the current model.

What print orientation do you use for the base block? Both holes horizontal or one vertical?

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20150228 131752

I was not to happy with the reduced buildspace, so I started from scratch to make version 2. I'm at the first iteration now. Some handwork with a file was needed to make things fit. I can now home, start and level with original firmware, although the margins are small. There's about 1 mm in the front, and at the back the cables need to be kept a bit flat, but all is just ok. Once you start using bigger alternative mounts you will need to adjust XY settings in firmware.


To take of the head I only have to remove the fillament & bowden tube and then remove the 2 left long screws.


todo for iteration 2.2;

* I consider the BASE (green part) ready for now.

for the HEADMOUNT;

* shave of a few tens of mm here and there for a better fit

* better position the tie-wrap holder for cable management.


open question on electronics.

If I want to mount a 2th head (f.e. a full metal E3D), The UM2 board has of course the connections for the 2th extruder motor, heater and pt100. Can I get power from the board to hook up a 2th pair of back and side fans ? or do I need to create some sort of manual swith box ?


As the back fan is not controlled, can I just add a physical switch or can this damage the board?

20150228 13175220150228 131840Head V3 2Head V3 CHead V3 DRemoveTheSupportV2V3 BV3dX20150308 13181520150308 16280420150308 195203magnetPlot



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