At the configuration file, about the spot where you configure the extruders and heated bed. Or use:
http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/
so you don't need to mess with config files yourself.
At the configuration file, about the spot where you configure the extruders and heated bed. Or use:
http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/
so you don't need to mess with config files yourself.
http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/
This page has no options to enable the heater or the heated bed. It only allows you specify the sensor, not the heater its self. I thought I had dead pins on my Arduino so I ordered a new one. But it turns out that its a software issue.
In the Configuration.h of the marlin firmware I have it already set
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6
But the hot_bed and heater 1 still do not work. only heater0 works. (the hot end heater)
To use the heater you need to configure a sensor, else Marlin cannot control the heat.
Help! Anyone having issues using the Heated bed MOSFET on the Ultimaker Shield ?
Here is my setup for Marlin:
http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build ... stepsE=800
I can see that the thermistor is working in the PrintRun. I can connect to the machine and and use a heat gun on the themistor to get a proper temperature reading.
Next step is setting the Bed Temp to 60
Here is some of the read out with the Monitor Print box checked.
ok T:35.7 /0.0 B:3.0 /3.0 @:0
ok T:35.8 /0.0 B:3.0 /3.0 @:0
ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:66.6 /3.0 @:0 (Applying Heat gun)
ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:78.8 /3.0 @:0
ok T:35.1 /0.0 B:95.2 /3.0 @:0
ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:73.0 /3.0 @:0
ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:58.1 /3.0 @:0
Setting bed temperature to 60.0 degrees Celsius.
ok T:35.5 /0.0 B:46.0 /60.0 @:0 (I Expect the red LED on the MOSFET to turn on here But it does not)
ok T:35.6 /0.0 B:27.2 /60.0 @:0
ok T:35.7 /0.0 B:3.0 /60.0 @:0
ok T:35.6 /0.0 B:3.0 /60.0 @:0
I do know that, the pin on the Arduino is good as a I wrote a basic Pin High/Low program and watched the LED turn on and off.
Any help thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
In stead of messing with the code of Marlin, I started to swap out resistors 4.7k ohm was what I have been using this whole time. I tried 10k with no better results.
With each resistor I recompiled the look up table with the Python script from Rep Rap
22k ohm works ! It starts off around ~ -20 only 2 less then the last value in the table {1008, -22}
47k ohm works as well but it starts around -44
Testing the 22k ohm resistor, Using my fingers to heat up the resistor It only returns a result of ~9c which means I should be dead.
But I don't care, its working with out messing with any Marlin Code and no need to pre-heat the resistor.
I'll be testing the results of the 22k ohm resistor at 60c, 70c, 80c, 90c, 100c with my toaster oven.
( I have one of reflow solder hacks that controls the oven's temp with an external micro controller)
Thanks for everyone listening and reading to my troubles,
Brian
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flyguy 0
Ok I uploaded some basic code to the Arduino 2560, AND the 2 pins that I thought were dead are not.
So I am missing something to enable the Heated bed, and the Heater 2 transistors. Anyone have an idea where I would go to enable these in the Marlin firmware.
const int lowestPin = 3;
const int highestPin = 4;
void setup() {
// set pins 2 through 13 as outputs:
for (int thisPin =lowestPin; thisPin <= highestPin; thisPin++) {
pinMode(thisPin, OUTPUT);
}
}
void loop() {
// iterate over the pins:
for (int thisPin =lowestPin; thisPin <= highestPin; thisPin++) {
// fade the LED on thisPin from off to brightest:
for (int brightness = 0; brightness < 255; brightness++) {
analogWrite(thisPin, brightness);
delay(2);
}
// fade the LED on thisPin from brithstest to off:
for (int brightness = 255; brightness >= 0; brightness--) {
analogWrite(thisPin, brightness);
delay(2);
}
// pause between LEDs:
delay(100);
}
}
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