Building from scratch my own Ultimaker not building kit

[airgraphix 1]

Printing parts is not a problem I do have a Da Vinci 1.0A but it really is ABS only so want to build the UM for other materials.

Are the Reptar blocks better than buying the ones in the link?

 

[aviphysics 9]

Printing parts is not a problem I do have a Da Vinci 1.0A but it really is ABS only so want to build the UM for other materials.

Are the Reptar blocks better than buying the ones in the link?

I believe so. IIRC, the UM2 design makes it difficult to remove the XY carriage without breaking the XY blocks. Also, they are designed to put tension on the belt, which isn't needed for a correctly sized GT2 belt.

The Reptar blocks are the ones I use. They are lightweight and the GT2 version doesn't put tension on the belts. A lot of people like the Chopmeister Twister blocks, which make it possible to remove the XY carriage without disconnecting the XY blocks from the belts. IMO, they are both good choices. They are also a lot cheaper, if you can print them yourself. Printing them in ABS should be fine.

 

[tommyph1208 55]

Printing parts is not a problem I do have a Da Vinci 1.0A but it really is ABS only so want to build the UM for other materials.

Are the Reptar blocks better than buying the ones in the link?

There is very little info in the ebay item description... Its supposedly for the UM2, its injection molded and contains some copper bushings (I believe, at least the UM1, uses bronze here)...

Thats it... No measurements, diameters of bushings, size of block, description of belt types etc.

By printing some yourself you have more control over these parameters... They aren't very expensive though, so you might want to try them out.. If nothing else, just to harvest the bushings from them (I would do some searching around to find out if copper works as good as broze though... I think the bronze ones are supposed to be self lubricating in a way).

If you end up going with a E3D hotend, E3D also sell bronze bushings:

http://e3d-online.com/Mechanical/Bronze-Bushing-for-8mm-Rod

 

[aviphysics 9]

I missed that they are copper. You don't want copper bushing. Copper oxidizes in a messy way. That is why it is normally plated when used in connectors.

However, I bet they are actually bronze. Copper bushings just doesn't make sense. Would still print your own blocks.

Edit: it especially wouldn't make sense for sintered bearings, as the pores that hold the oil (the whole point of sintered bushings) would just clog with copper oxide

[airgraphix 1]

I think they are like loads of other Chinese items the translation has got messed up, they look like bronze.

Thanks again for the suggestions, I am making note of everything posted here.

Going back to the drawings I think I will just pick the latest set I can find and start building, I am sure someone on here can then point out mistakes or mods as I go along, as I will post the build on here.

 

[airgraphix 1]

Been a while but finally getting this project started I have since acquired my own laser cutter so that is now the easy bit.

Finnaly got a set of drawings I could start with, they needed some cad work but happy to start cutting frame in next couple of days from 6mm birch ply

Edited February 4, 2016 by Guest

[airgraphix 1]

Am I better to stick to the one piece belt system

[airgraphix 1]

I see I need to do some reading looks like the GT2 belt system is very good, just ordering some parts and dont really want to be buying stuff I am not going to use because of improvements mods made since as I am working of the origonal BOM list

[airgraphix 1]

Wooden parts now cut out, quite a bit of work getting drawings ready for cutting

Edited February 15, 2016 by Guest

[Labern 774]

Looks Great

[airgraphix 1]

Frame together, used stainless fasteners and square nuts, very impressed how strong it is when assembled, going to make up the z axis this evening have the rails but no leadscrew or motors arrived yet

Edited February 15, 2016 by Guest

[airgraphix 1]

Still not clear on what belt system to use,? any suggestions, I want to get stuff ordered as it looks like no supplier in UK for the belts so need to order from china

[Labern 774]

Use GT2's

Read Here as it should have all the information you need.

[airgraphix 1]

Thanks

[zumfab 3]

Wooden parts now cut out, quite a bit of work getting drawings ready for cutting

 

Are you willing to share your drawings? I have been looking to cut a frame myself.

[airgraphix 1]

Yes no problem but mine are the ones from youmagine and thingiverse just adapted to suit my laser, depends the format you want them in, dxf eps etc

[airgraphix 1]

Z axis and table trial assembly, also made some motor spacers and printed out few versions of the blocks to try out, like the chopmeister twister ones the best I think.

[airgraphix 1]

Anyone any experience with this hot end

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Extruder-v6-0-4mm-Nozzle-Hot-End-J-head-Mount-Holder-for-Ultimaker-3mm-Filament-/381367860419?hash=item58cb4bbcc3:g:4zMAAOSwMmBV1U14

[airgraphix 1]

Anyone know where to get the closed loop GT2 belts in europe

[onkelgeorg 36]

Anyone know where to get the closed loop GT2 belts in europe

 

yes

ebay link

[airgraphix 1]

 

Anyone know where to get the closed loop GT2 belts in europe

 

yes

ebay link

 

Brilliant Thanks

[airgraphix 1]

I am bit confussed on the Z axis leadscrew for the heated bed conversion it is quoted as TR8x8 (p2) which to me reads 8mm 2mm pitch 4 start

But 2mm 4 start is 8mm per revolution, seems very corse for a Z axis that only moves about .1 a time, would a finer thread i.e. 1 start not be better ?

[airgraphix 1]

I hadnt posted any update as I am having issues fitting the rails, I had everything installed GT2 pulleys and belts motors, print head, but could not get smooth motion, I printed out various rail calibration tools, on my Davinci but still no good, then I realised two of my rails were slightly bent!

I had ordered 8mm ground bearing steel linear rails from a cnc supplier on ebay and just asumed they were streight,

So I stripped it again ordered new rails this time advertised as 3D printer chrome steel smooth rail from a 3D printing parts supplier, only to find one of those were slightly bent also !

In the meantime I found another stockist in UK worldofcnc.com who will supply rails to exact dimensions (others were 400mm lengths and needed cutting down) so I had ordered full set from them 12, 8 & 6 and they all came nicely oilded, perfectly round & correct lengths, so I know where I will be buying in future.

As I re-assembled everything I also noticed a slight wobble in one of the GT2 pulleys so next job was to fit an offcut of a shaft in the lathe and check each one, luckily I bought extras as out of the 20 I bought only 12 were perfectly true.

Also swapped out the 688RS bearings I had fitted (all had at time) for the better 688ZZ as metal shields have less friction than rubber seals.

Hope to get it all setup again today.

[airgraphix 1]

After a lot of faffing about I managed to get XY axis moving nice and free, I am using the chopmeister blocks

I now also have my electonics hooked up and working, I am using the 1.5.7 board and ended up using the more common RepRap Discount Smart controller LCD, so I had to make a wider unicontroller box to suit as I couldnt find a LCD that fitted the first one I cut.

My stubbling block now is getting the temp sensor working I have a AD597 board and have tried various sensors, still bit confussed as to the correct sensor to use .

There are lots of posts about it but none says this one works other than the one from ultimaker.

I believe it is a k type thermocouple so have one ordered to try

Also printed out H3 feeder looks good design

Edited April 17, 2016 by Guest