Ok this explanation I can understand.
But honestly, if I get an UM2 and have to tweak temperature and speed settings and now also turn off the fan I doubt that this is 'normal'. My UM2 is only a few weeks old.
What I expect from UM2 is insert filament, tell UM2 which one I have, use 'Fast print' settings in Cura and start printing.
Is it normal that I have such problems?
I don't know what is normal for an ultimaker2, but in my case I printed nearly 500h without any problems. Then the top layer start to doesn't touch anymore. Changed the coupler and it prints like the first day..
maybe somone else has an another idea?
I came across this post i think i am having a similar problem. My infill is not connecting to the walls but it only seems to be on one side.
when i do a square with the middle cut out of it. the inside walls on the x do not touch but it doesn't make sense that it is not both of the right side of the walls it is both inside. the "M" design i downloaded from the web just trying to make sure it isn't from my solidworks drawing. Any help? this seems to have a larger gap than what the earlier post showed.
What kind of printer do you have?
It looks like loose belts or other cause of play/backlash. Usually it's the short belts - the belts to the motors. This is rare on the UM2 and common on the UMO. But it can happen on the UM2 also.
What kind of material are you printing? Is it ABS? PLA?
Can you show more prints? Because the light source is so close to the camera lens it makes it harder to see what the infill looks like. It doesn't look underextruded but I'm not certain. Maybe show another print from more of an angle so I can see both the top and sides of the print.
I have an ebay build it yourself kit. prusa unit. i have a MKS Base V 1.3 control board. It uses belts for x and y and threaded rod for z. here is a picture of the rectangle around 5 inch on the side we are looking at. the inside lines measure what it is supposed to be but the infill doesn't reach the wall but on both sides it reaches the outside wall?
I am using 1.75 PLA with a .4 nozzle extruder at 185 and my bed is at 65
I tried cura 15 to generate the gcode but this time i used simplify 3d somewhere i read it has allow gab fill but that didn't help.
The problem isn't the slicer.
So your bottom layer is pretty heavily underextruded. You are getting about 1/2 the plastic you need. Bottom layer's are a special case though. I'm going to guess it's because of your "leveling". Do you have a 3 screw adjustment system that you can rotate easily while it prints or is it something that requires a screwdriver? Anyway, hopefully the former. I don't know what your thread pitch is, on all the Ultimakers the levelins screws are 3mm screws with .5mm pitch. This means one complete rotation moves the bed .5mm.
I would rotate about 1/2 a turn on all your leveling screws an equal amount (the bed appears to be level - just not at the right height.
If you want to level when it's not printing (much harder) you want the nozzle touching the build plate when Z=0. Strongly consider using pronterface to move axes around and such when not printing - it's free and great for doing things like testing and calibrating.
Also every printer is very different when it comes to nozzle temp so your 185C might be just like my 220C on my UM. But I doubt it's *that* far off. Consider printing closer to 210C as if I printed at 185C I would get some underextrusion which looks like what I see in your print.
But more likely the bed level position is the main issue. Can't tell until you start the second layer. Once you start the second layer if it still looks underextruded it's not the bed.
Oh - other possibilities - the Z axis could be off by a factor of 2X. This would mean the Z is printing twice as high off the build plate as desired. This is also easily tested in pronterface (move Z 10mm and make sure it indeed moves 10mm). This is a common problem if you get the steps/mm off or if a jumper or software setting has the steppers in the wrong microstepping mode.
I tried leveling the bed again. i printed a round circle and it is not circle. could the x or y ratio be off? When i print a square it is coming out as a rectangle.
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The lines are not touching on the first layer. but i think it is the x or y is off or something not sure what is wrong?
Lol. Okay now that I see the second layer is underextruding just as badly your leveling is fine. You are extruding only about 50% of what you should be. Maybe try to slow the speed down by 4X. See if you get solid fill instead of the gaps. This is problem #1.
Problem #2 is causing your circles not to be round and infill not to touch the border. It's called "play". when the servo (x servo looks worse in the yellow photo or which ever axis is left to right in that photo with the yellow tape just above) is commanded to move to the left to a position it doesn't go all the way and ends short. Then when it tells it to move to the right nothing happens at first and then it starts moving but always not quite as far as it needs to move. usually caused by loose belts or alternatively very high friction. I've seen this 100s of times by now. It's play. Grab the head and push it around without letting the X servo move. The head should not move more than .1mm if even that. But you have maybe 3mm of play. Look up "backlash" in wikipedia.
Did you calibrate you Z axis like I suggested? Also calibrate your extruder - tell it to retract 10mm and see if the filament really retracts by 10mm or does it move half that. You have 50% (roughly) extrusion of what you are supposed to have. I think some wire is crossed and when you command E axis to move 10mm it only moves 5mm or the opposite with the Z axis.
I printed a 20mm cube test from internet. it printed 20.4 and 18.6 i set in simplify3d to scale x to 110.479 % and it printed 20.4mm by 20.5mm i am getting closer. i am going to try changing the speed and also see if i can fix the under extruding. When all is done i would like to see about fixing the firmware on my board so i don't have it change my model by 110%.
Jeez. I feel like I'm talking to someone who isn't listening. Please reread my post and ask questions about what you don't understand. You should be calibrating Z and E, not X and Y. 18.6 instead of 20 makes perfect sense - you have 1mm of play. Go back to 100% and fix the play aka "backlash". If you don't understand what backlash is learn that word first before doing anything else.
i checked the backlash i do not have any. with the motors engaged i can not move the head more than .05 i have a large caliper and i measure from a stationary part of the machine and try and move the head in each direction and measure. Sorry i didn't say that on the last post i checked before i changed the percentage of the model.
A non circular circle can be explained easily by miscalibration of steps/mm or backlash. But the infill not touching walls can not be explained by miscalibration. If it's only on the bottom layer it could be underextrusion but not on subsequent layers. The only explanation I know of for that is some kind of backlash. It might not be obvious with power off.
There are many causes of play and I'm only familiar to them on the ultimaker. One category of causes are loose belts and loose components but if you hold the motor still and push the head you can detect the stretching belts and loose components yourself so maybe that's not the case.
Another category of causes is friction - the friction is high enough that the belt is stretching quite a bit and the head doesn't reach it's desired position. Could this be it? What happens when you slide the head around with power off? the nice thing about the Ultimaker is the X and Y axes should have identical friction by design so you can compare the two - usually the friction is caused by the end caps but I don't know if you even have end caps.
Please look at the 4th photo in this thread which explains why I'm so sure you have backlash - the photo with the green and gray lines:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2872-some-calibration-photographs
On another note - did you try calibrating you E and Z axes yet? Did you try pronterface yet? Pronterface is here:
http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/
Pronterface is a wonderful utility for controlling your printer and performing acts of calibration. It only runs on windows. It's very simple to use - no installation necessary - just copy the files and double click it.
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dirkdirk 5
You have to use a plugin when you want to deactivate the fans for a specific layer. TweakAtZ
If the coupler is deformed the material doesn't comes out in the calculated "form/amount". This is the only understandable reason for me..
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