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neotko

Cooling Fan always on UMO+ Update now voltage it's 0

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Well I don't know what died but something did...

I was installing a crossflow fan (Model QG030-198/14) and it was working perfect. I could power it up and down, from 40 it started to run and at 255 it was too much.

So... What I did:

- I started to power up the extruders and the bed (used Heat PLA1)

- Started to test different powers on the fan to see if it was too much or just ok

- After 2-3 minutes, I started to see that the crossflow fan was going too high, even with power 40

- I did 'cooldown'. The Fan didn't stop.

- I pressed Power off

- Power on - and Now the Fan don't stops, never, the fan power don't goes up or down.

- Turned off. Disconnected the new fan.

- Connected the stock fan. Power On. The Fan don't stops.

- Tryed touching the temperature - fan - It was at 0. At any number it just don't stops.

- Tryed to connect the cooling fan to the Led power. Even at maximum Led it only moves very little (but the leds work fine).

So.. Something has died right? T_T I can't stop crying (from the inside).

My UMO+ has month and a half and was assembled by iMakr. I'm using a 280W powersupply (to handle the 2 extruders) and everything else it's working perfect.

- So my questions... It's there something dead on my UMO+ board?

- Could I patch it in the meantime connect the fan to the led power? I tryed but the fan almost don't move, so seems the power/amps? this sends it's too low. Can I pump it up via firmware?

- What are my options? T_T

THANKS!

Edited by Guest

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I'm not very good at soldering SMD parts. But if you can handle it - then buy a replacement part for T1. Or maybe you know someone with a SMD soldering station. I'm an electrical engineer and pretty good at soldering but SMD parts are a bit beyond my abilities - really I just don't have the right tools. e.g. one of those pliers/soldering irons where both sides are at 300C and they can pick up a part like that from both sides at once.

 

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Saw that post, but my board it's the UMO+

 

UMO+ and UM2 are using the same board

 

 

I wish I could just swap the power from leds to the fans, that at least would let me keep working

 

I have not looked at the schematics, but I won't do that

 

  • I am not sure you can draw the same amount of power from the LED output so you might burn your LED output

  • There is probably no 'flyback' diode on the led output so a fan could damage the board...

If you need the fan to print, maybe the easiest for now is to use an external power supply (12V is probably more than enough...)

(Edit -- read further: both output are actually the same, limited power though)

 

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Well the fan it's on full power. So a fan I have but now yo print I must use blue tape and hair spray. Also my prints (eyeglasses) have a lot of overhangs and I was just finishing the prototype and fine tunning the fan speeds. The crossflow fan I was trying to install would have help a lot but that at maximun power it just blows the filament so now I cant use it. Also my next week I was going to start with colorfabb xt and wood to see the quality finishes. So yeah I really need the fan to be gcode controlled and since each print it's 4 to 8h a manual adjust it's out of the table :S

I found a company that might offsr their soldering services but seems that this is going to cost more than buying a board from china. /sulk /cry /selfbackpat

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You could use the other circuit but you'll probably just break that one also. The transistor you blew up is called a BC817. You can google it's specifications. It should be able to take 1 amp peak and 0.5 amps continuous. The cross flow fan probably drew more than that amount of power. At 24V, 1A is 24 watts and 0.5 amps is 12 watts. I don't know if the cross flow fan was more than 12 watts but it probably drew a non-constant amount of current as the motor spun so I wouldn't be surprised it if violated the 24 watt peak current specification.

Both circuits (fan, LED) are indeed indentical and it would be a simple firmware change (probably in pins.h) to swap these. But like I said you will then just blow up your second circuit.

 

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Any idea of where I could touch the firmware to swap the pins? I did a search on the marlin but I didn't found where the fan/pin it's selected. I would be just happy to able to connect the normal fans.

The crossflow I'll leave it parked until I get an external power for it that can regulate the power but I can live without that.

At least this way I could use the stock fan connecting it to the led (I need more the fans than the led strips XD)

Edit: Sorry U already said. Pins.h here I go...

 

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Super, fantastic, amazing. Changed the firmware deffinition for led_pin and fan_pin and changed the connections. Now the Led it's broken also. I connected the fans to the led, and the fans now are also at full power, so super fantastic, this is what I get for playing with stuff I only know so little. Time to go chinashopping.

How much cost a new ultimaker 2 board :S ?

This will teach me to not touch stuff, ever

 

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Well paying for a pro in soldering this kind of boards seems to have pay-off (pun intended) the printer it's working sweet and sexy as before.

Btw I think there was something wrong with my board, at least on the led since.. I'll try to explain

4 weeks ago when I connected 2 strips of leds and uploaded the firmware to control the leds, at 0 led I had maximum led-light (but wasn't like 'really on') and at 255 it was really low but not off. Now that the technician changed the 2 thermistors the Leds at 0 (didn't touched the firmware since the led also died when I tryed to connect the fans modifying the pin.h), now at 0 they are really 'off' and at 255 they really are 'bright'. I didn't noticed this until now I just though that was a minor firmware glitch that wasn't any important (since it was just light so who cares). Well at least the repair was just a little less than a china board. I think I'll just save for an extra board just incase for the future.

 

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Hi. Sorry to brind this up again. But my fan pwm just died. Using x4 fans (2 weeks printing and working fine) this are 320Ma in total. But now the fan output just instead of giving full power all the time it gives 0V on the tester. Also connected the leds to it and they stay off. What have I broken now? It again the transistor bc817 or it could be other stuff? (Led pwm works perfect and all the other parts of the printer).

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Hello,

my Maker-friend asked me to help him out with this issue and so I did back in September 2015 already!

The documentation just became available now, please take a look at:

 

The replaced transistor did the job for him, it worked. My personal challenge was rather in looking a bit more at the details (Schematics, Transistors, etc.) but despite the protective diode which is already there, there is not so much I could think of.

If you have questions, please ask or use iFixit functions to reply/ask, etc. would appreciate if the guide is helpful to you.

If you can't or are scared of doing it yourself, I offer you the replacement as a service, but it certainly comes with a 1-2 week turnaround of shipping etc.

Kind regards and good luck with the mainboard,

LS

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Hello,

my Maker-friend asked me to help him out with this issue and so I did back in September 2015 already!

The documentation just became available now, please take a look at:

 

The replaced transistor did the job for him, it worked. My personal challenge was rather in looking a bit more at the details (Schematics, Transistors, etc.) but despite the protective diode which is already there, there is not so much I could think of.

If you have questions, please ask or use iFixit functions to reply/ask, etc. would appreciate if the guide is helpful to you.

If you can't or are scared of doing it yourself, I offer you the replacement as a service, but it certainly comes with a 1-2 week turnaround of shipping etc.

Kind regards and good luck with the mainboard,

LS

 

this link is dead

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