UM2 Fan Shroud Replacement

[Labern 774]

For anyone who is interested, Here is some pics from a flow test done on my Fan Shroud. The Original UM shrouds velocity is about 0.6m/s

Edited August 19, 2015 by Guest

[eldrick 65]

Why not make it in two pieces, with left and right sides separate? That would eliminate the parts that usually get overheated and melt.

[Labern 774]

You need to protect the heater block from the air flow as you will get temp errors

[Labern 774]

Just added a design for dual nozzles found Here

[neotko 1,417]

Just in case it helps. I use Nomex heat insulator/reflect paper to avoid air going to the heat block. It can hold 400C and with at least 1mm space it does not go 'brown'. So far tested it for 2 weeks on my dual magnetic head changer.

Isn't cheap but you can cut/bend and stick it with kapton to almost anything.

Edit: the blue tape did go brown and I changed it to kapton.

Edited August 22, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Lastest test with ceramic paper. It breaks so easy, but it can hold the heat really really well. And the kapton tape sticks really really well, the paper breaks when removing it.

The test photos was done at 210C for 15minutes extruding some filament each 2-3 minutes.

Heat around the heater block at 210C

Color area heat = +60C

External look

[neotko 1,417]

Well the full day printing 7-8h running shows that the ceramic paper 1mm when close to the heater block becomes brown quite fast for my taste. Also the brown area broke way to easy like cotton so, unless the paper it's hold by some kapton to gain strength, I think Nomex it's a more solid (literally) and better option.

Check the broken ceramic paper and the nomex. Ceramic (left) broke very easily, shows decoloration and nomex (right) stands just great. And that nomex has been in use for almost a month and a half.

Ofc the ceramic paper it's 1/10 the price for volume and with some kapton should work but I don't like the cotton feel and density.

[tinkergnome 927]

No, it has no impact on the printable area.

Its widest point is the same as the widest point of UM2 Original Metal Shroud.

 

First: i like your design of the fan shroud anyway.

...but... i made some simple calculations... and the result is:

i have to regret your reality...

The distance between the side walls of the UM2 frame is 326.2mm (by design), the max. print area in x direction is stated as 230mm. At least at the time i bought it (230 x 225 x 205).

Edit:

I saw that this little detail has changed lately - now it's stated as only 223mm in x and y direction? Just another disappointing act from the Ultimaker marketing in my eyes...

BTW: 230 x 225 x 205 is still the default area for the machine settings in Cura...?

That means: Any fan mounting that exceeds a size of 96mm in x direction reduces the print area.

It's not a big deal in my opinion but has to be considered thoroughly.

Edited October 10, 2015 by Guest

[darkdvd 975]

@Labern : I mod your fan shroud a little...

I print XT @ 244° @ 40/50 mm/s

[Labern 774]

 

No, it has no impact on the printable area.

Its widest point is the same as the widest point of UM2 Original Metal Shroud.

 

First: i like your design of the fan shroud anyway.

...but... i made some simple calculations... and the result is:

i have to regret your reality...

The distance between the side walls of the UM2 frame is 326.2mm (by design), the max. print area in x direction is stated as 230mm. At least at the time i bought it (230 x 225 x 205).

Edit:

I saw that this little detail has changed lately - now it's stated as only 223mm in x and y direction? Just another disappointing act from the Ultimaker marketing in my eyes...

BTW: 230 x 225 x 205 is still the default area for the machine settings in Cura...?

That means: Any fan mounting that exceeds a size of 96mm in x direction reduces the print area.

It's not a big deal in my opinion but has to be considered thoroughly.

 

I never actually calculated the build area. I just measured my metal fan Shroud with fans mounted. There was only like .5mm difference. But I guess with its folded design that this could change from machine to machine. Depending if it's been bent in or out.

Has the build area changed since UM decided not to continue with the dual extrusion? You could possibly print slightly bigger using dual by shopping between nozzles which could be due to a change in claims.

[Labern 774]

@Labern : I mod your fan shroud a little...

I print XT @ 244° @ 40/50 mm/s

 

I like it. Only reason I didn't go down this path is not everyone has the ability to cut and fold up the metal bit.

[neotko 1,417]

Maybe you could design a metal clip with the prts to fold. I used Lasermaster in uk. They lasercut (ofc) aluminium, steel, and they are quite cheap for even 1 unit. They also can fold. I had them made me some parts for my magnetic head and they deliver quite decent and cheap.

[donandi 0]

hey guys, i don´t get it how to use the spacers to fit the shroud?!

the hotend fixing screws are too long and touch the shroud. so, where to put the spcers??

[Labern 774]

 

@donandi You remove the two hot end fixing screws on the right hand side of the hot end. Slide the spacers onto the fixing screws then put the screws back onto the hot end. The spacers lift the screws not the fan shroud.

[donandi 0]

ahhhh, ok, i see. thank you, will do!!

[Hreodbeorht 1]

Greetings all. Just got my Olsson Block in, installed, and got my U2E back into operation yesterday. I printed up your shroud Labern (in UPET Transparent from ColorFABB) and am still a bit fuzzy on the spacers. Also...on tape and/or metal parts. Do I need the tapes or something other than the shroud and spacers?

If I understand correctly...looking from the front. I only need one spacer each on the right two screws (and those placed on the top side)?

[Labern 774]

Greetings all.  Just got my Olsson Block in, installed, and got my U2E back into operation yesterday.  I printed up your shroud Labern (in UPET Transparent from ColorFABB) and am still a bit fuzzy on the spacers.  Also...on tape and/or metal parts.  Do I need the tapes or something other than the shroud and spacers?

If I understand correctly...looking from the front.  I only need one spacer each on the right two screws (and those placed on the top side)?

 

Yes you are correct with the spacers, I have grey ones that you can see in this picture

I would recomment putting Kapton tape on the fan shroud shown in yellow as per this photo this photo credit of Bob-hepple

[Hreodbeorht 1]

Thanks!  I should have checked back sooner :-) ...thought I'd get an email of a thread update :-/  Have to check those settings...

[randyinla 14]

Lots of people toying around with fan shroud design.  Has anyone tried redesigning the horizontal aluminum piece the hot end attaches to?   Since there will never be dual hot ends, why not try to make the overall size of the gantry smaller?  Or, if not smaller, at least move the hot end hole in the aluminum to the center?  Seems having the hot end currently on the left side of the aluminum would heat up that piece unevenly, and also cool unevenly via the back fan.  By having the hot end in the center, the resulting fan shroud angles would be identical for the left and right sides.  Seems current air flow analysis (a few posts back) shows the left side has more of a downward, vertical flow vs the right has more of a horizontal flow.  Having equal angles on both sides would give the same flow from both sides.

Also, with all the talk about total gantry width after adjusting the angle of the fans, why not put one fan in the back with a shroud that splits into L/R?   The width of the gantry would be significantly reduced, not just by .2mm.  If having the fan in the back decreases front to back distance too much, how about moving the fan outside the machine and deliver the airflow via tube?  Same idea as the compressor, but without the compressor.  ie.the fan speed and on/off will still be controlled via Cura.  This makes me think that since the air would be piped in from outside the build area, the air would probably be cooler and thus not need to have as much volume?  

If this is too far off the original topic, I can move it elsewhere

[bob-hepple 59]

Hi

I had thought of changing the plate while I was on Fitting Olson block and Korneels spacer Just decided for the amount of work and the redesigning of the fan shroud (I use Labern's) it was a lot of work for not a lot return considering there is more important things to worry about with the Um2

[Techniktoni 1]

Hi Labern,

I have some problems with your shroud.

When my UM2 moves the Head to the home position the endstop switch for the x-direction can't be tuched anymore.

Has Ultimaker made maybe some chanings to increase a bit the printable area?

because in my settings of the machine, I do have a size of 230 x 225 x 205 mm.

I' m thinking now if i should move the endstop (drilling 2 new holes into the frame).

The Orginal shroud at mine machine is 75mm.

[bob-hepple 59]

I would not drill the chassis 3mm screws you'd have to move it a good 4mm could you not put a spacer on the micro switch instead Been using Labern's shroud for a long time now on UM2 Fab.

[Labern 774]

Some times the home switch tag is not bent to the optimal position. As my shroud is slightly bigger it can hit.

So you can just bend the home switch tag so it clears the side of the printer.

[xxvii 0]

Had my latest one printed an entire year ago in HT black so I hope I am not too late to share my experience.

I have been using the Olsson enclosure design + the increased bore from V3 as the enclosed back seemed to be missing in the latter and vise versa, however aside of this basic best-of-both-worlds merge, I would also simply recommend another iteration that worked quite well for me which was beefing up the top clip parts where the lateral screws hold the shroud into position on the print-head gantry as I have had some accidents while using even rigid materials such as CF20 and HT since the screw "towers" are only at 2mm of thickness towards their external walls, while also causing them to have concentrated heat on them as they were being printed due to lack of distance traveled; a situation which would require either pre-programmed or live intervention in order to prevent any mishaps.

It is definitely still the best shroud design out there for UM2s; just my two cents on how to make the best even a tad bit better. Thank you Labern for the great design.

[Labern 774]

Thanks for the input. I never really liked how thin they were. If I get time (maybe next week) I will make the suggested changes. Thanks