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STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

after waiting around a month or so for a new password i'm finally back.

and yes, you are so damn right... my fault! thank you very much for the feedback, i update it ;)

btw... is there anything that works on this forum after the huge "update"?

Edited by Guest

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

i just created a new profile to get back on :)

i did see that someone was working on putting this into a UM2 but they may also have been dumped by the system :(

anyone else working on putting these into UM2... i really want to cut the noise down, like tsp42 said,'it's good for the WAF' and he's 100% right with that one :)

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

SkinnyChicken: the steppers drivers are soldered on the Ultimaker 2 mainboard so it will rather difficult to replace them.

Ararax: not sure if there is any improvements with the new forum.

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

tsp42: so difficult but not impossible. i'm guessing it's not just a matter of desoldering the chip and plugging in the stepper ones, or could you do that?

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

SkinnyChicken: The two chips are not pin compatible so no it is more complicated than that (redesign of the mainboard)

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Wanted to post that a long time before...

This is the result of the original drivers compared to the SSS drivers.

The noise level is measured by a contact microphone, one directly on the the stepper, one on the UMO case (lower and upper channel).

Ignore the high pitches on the the beginning of every part, those are caused by the loose MXL belts (which i replaced by GT2 in the meanwhile)

5a330df7536d7_umnoisecmp.thumb.png.a97a4a969ed370b63744251a130f1a32.png

5a330df7536d7_umnoisecmp.thumb.png.a97a4a969ed370b63744251a130f1a32.png

Edited by Guest

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

With fear of sounding slowenly I just have to ask or beg for a summary of the first post, as I simply didn't catch what to do, and what not to do - might be because I'm Danish, or because I know next to nothing about Electronics, but the end result is the same: I'm confused.

I CAN solder just fine though regardless of not knowing much about Electronics.

I found it unclear if I MUST desolder something or not?

I also found it unclear how to set the jumpers? I think it was jumper on 2 and 3 and none on 1. Is that correct?

Got confused about all the talk of pulled high and low.

Hope someone take pity on me, and answers my questions :)

Thanks in advance.

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

hi dintid, i will revise the instructions, gimme some minutes ;)

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Better?

1) UMO Mainboard: Open (remove) the jumpers MS2 and MS1 everywhere you install the SSS driver

2) Solder the pin-header, the pins should face in the same direction as the components

3) Mount the heatsink (on the other side, where no components are!)

4) plug the driver in (direction: CFG1-3 on the drivers to MS1-3 on the mainboard)

5) Set the current with the little screw on the drivers (start at around 0.8A and increase if necessary)

6) Create a new firmware at http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

6.1) Toggle "invert axis" everywhere you install the new drivers.

6.2) If you install one for the z-axis: Set the steps/mm for the z-axis to 1066.6666

6.3) Upload the new firmware via CURA

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Thanks!

So I don't have to unsolder anything. That was my main concern.

eidted: that was old review, so removed what I wrote to avoid confusion.

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Man, these instructions are way better and easier than what I ended up doing in the early adoptation of these magnificent drivers :)

Mine is with the unsoldered pins and the wire and everything.... Totally hacked up :/, I might just have to put in new ones some day and use these ones in a "left over scrap and parts" printer :p

Anyways, I think it was just some unfortunate misunderstandings of the easiest way to install the drivers... The method ataraxis mentions, is definetely the most straight forward one when it comes to UM electronics.

dintid, give me a shoutout if you want me to help you out with the drivers, I'm danish too, so I can (probably) explain it in native tounge as well (are you in the "3d Print(ere) i Danmark" FB group?

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO
So I don't have to unsolder anything. That was my main concern.

I (we) first thought it is necessary, but Tsp42 suggested another way. The reason why we soldered at first is that I (we) overlooked that there is no pull-up/pull-down resistor here. Anyway :)

No problem ;)

Edited by Guest

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

I actually need to use this on Ramps, but the soldering bit is one step closer for me :)

Just need to figure out jumpers now, unless they are the same.

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO
I actually need to use this on Ramps, but the soldering bit is one step closer for me :)

Just need to figure out jumpers now, unless they are the same.

At least at RAMPS 1.4 the layout is the same on all important points so don't worry too much about the jumpers - just remove them! (you can - if you want - remove ALL THREE).

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Dintid you are welcome to write a PM to me too in Danish.

I have ordered some DACs to implement software current control in software like the UM2 if it has any interest.

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO
I actually need to use this on Ramps, but the soldering bit is one step closer for me :)

Just need to figure out jumpers now, unless they are the same.

At least at RAMPS 1.4 the layout is the same on all important points so don't worry too much about the jumpers - just remove them! (you can - if you want - remove ALL THREE).

Thanks! Ok, so to sum it up:

On RAMPS

1) I solder in all legs on both sides.

2) Remove all jumpers

3) Install the drivers

What, if any, different settings do I achieve by inserting one or more jumpers?

Any combinations that is good to know?

I only change my XY which currently runs on 1/16, so no need to change firmware. But I understand I need to either reverse firmware or swap cables. I'll test anyway regardless of what I need to do :)

I have never measured vref, as I have yet to find a clear instruction on how to do so. Ie. USB power only, or? In any case, I just listen to them and dial them as far Down as I can without missing steps.. then dial up some.. then adjust if they sound annoying.

I see the UM only remove Jumper 1 and 2. Why is that?

Edited by Guest

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Thanks! Ok, so to sum it up:

On RAMPS

1) I solder in all legs on both sides.

2) Remove all jumpers

3) Install the drivers

 

... whats about the heatsink and so on? sorry but why don't you ask tommy or tsp for help in danish if you still have problems with the instructions.

if you want to know something about the other settings, please read the datasheet ;)

I don't know if USB power is enough, but I don't think so

but yes, you can set the current like this too if that works for you...

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

I'll simply just write the answer for people that just want to get this to Work and are not interested in the why or how it Works

Edit: I went ahead and did a clear and concise (tried to;)) instructables to get these to Work and not delve on what they do:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-and-configure-SilentStepStick-in-RAMPS-TMC/

I'll let this section remain if people prefer this list.

On RAMPS

1) Remove the 3rd pin from one of the two sections of pins that comes with the board.

-- This pin is to avoid soldering in CFG2.

-- Just pull it out with a plyer before soldering it on

2) Solder all the remaining legs on both sides - carefull to place the empty slot at the CFG2 part.

-- The trimpot and chip is downwards. Golden part upwards.

-- "TOP" is actually written on it, so not hard to figure out.

-- Note where the GND pin is, as you need this to adjust it later.

2) Remove all jumpers

3) Install the drivers

-- Trimpot must be towards the powerinputs of the Ramps board.

-- Means in reverse of the 4988 drivers you might have.

4) If you want to adjust the stepsticks by feel/hear, you do that now.

5) if you want to adjust by by vref you:

-- Put a multimeter on 2V and hook it up.

-- Put red to Down the hole to touch the Trimpot.

-- Put the Black wire to the pin GND pin. Opposite corner.

6) See if you can make it read 0.8 or so

-- it is really sensetive, so take your time.

If you only have USB connected, you get a wrong reading.

You just turn on power as you would normally.

Edited by Guest
Some clarifications.

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

@dintid: you edited your last post many times and at the first it seemed like you are a bit upset about my answer. it's nearly impossible to write an instruction that fits the knowledge of everybody without being to precise for somebody that knows a bit about electronics.

I also tried to answer your questions as good as possible. you asked why we only remove the jumpers 1 and 2 at the UMO electronics,... the answer is: it just don't matter! you can remove the third or let it where it is. i cannot tell you why without using words like "open", "pulled down/up".

the funny thing is... what you did now is mixing my instruction with another one and what comes out is that you do things twice. you remove the pin and you remove the jumper,... it is not necessary!

you wrote - before you edited your post - that you don't know much about electronics, but why don't you trust us then? the instructions are the same on RAMPS as on the original electronics...

And sorry, but i really don't understand why you don't want to know WHY you have to do what you have to do. stay curious!

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

A little update from my side:

Been very busy putting my own TMC2100 Marlin platform together the last few days. I didn't have much time to test it yet, but I seem to have a few problems for now.

TMC2100_driver_rev0.thumb.jpg.c88d9388f8c9a1d0a5d0bccddde56f4a.jpg

TMC2100_assembly_rev0.thumb.jpg.bea4f2c312ccafcef8418851ce98e8c3.jpg

As you can see, my prototype gives me full access to all 7 CFG pins, with the possibility to tie them high, low or leave them floating. It will probably turn out that most of these settings are unnecessary, but that's what I want to find out with the prototype..

While I can get my motors to turn, they whine a lot as soon as they're not moving anymore, and the drivers get quite hot (around 60°C maybe? Didn't leave them like that for long, I'm not using any kind of forced cooling).

Also, the temperature sensors don't work yet so I couldn't start an actual print. But I'll be fixing these things in the next few days, so stay tuned ;)

/edit:

I know there's some things that aren't very good on my quickly put together test setup. The motors have no load, and the cables are long and not twisted. I hope that is the problem why they whine. But as I said, more news later :p

TMC2100_driver_rev0.thumb.jpg.c88d9388f8c9a1d0a5d0bccddde56f4a.jpg

TMC2100_assembly_rev0.thumb.jpg.bea4f2c312ccafcef8418851ce98e8c3.jpg

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

jonnybischof: Do you also use digital current control(page 24 in the datasheet) like the UM2 or only the POT for setting the current? And do you thing that the INDEX pin (pin 21, page 33 in the datasheet) could be used to detect skipped step? And do you have heatsinks on the chips?

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO
jonnybischof: Do you also use digital current control(page 24 in the datasheet) like the UM2 or only the POT for setting the current? ...

I'm using only the analog current control (mechanical potentiometer). I just didn't want to bother implementing a digital potentiometer, because these potentiometers aren't linear and the output voltage would need to be checked (by feeding it back to the Arduino's ADC). Most of all, I don't want to have to start tinkering with Marlin because I'll soon start working on a successor to the Marlin firmware / Arduino platform.

 

...And do you thing that the INDEX pin (pin 21, page 33 in the datasheet) could be used to detect skipped step? ...

If I understand that function correctly, the Index signal is only an output from the indexer circuit for the user to be able to track its position. I don't think that a motor skipping steps has any impact on the Index signal, because the indexer doesn't have a feedback circuit.

But I didn't actually verify that - I'll ask the Trinamic support about it. They're very helpful :)

 

...And do you have heatsinks on the chips?

The heatsinks are integrated into the PCB. It's the nice and blingy golden "wings" on the sides of the driver ;)I hope they will suffice and that no more heatsinking will be necessary.

My plan is to have the prototype running by the weekend, and analyze the driver's temperatures with an infrared camera. Stay tuned for results!

The Silent StepSticks have a very small PCB, which is why they will always need heatsinking and / or forced air cooling. I'm hoping to do away with that.

Small update: I found out why my temperature sensors didn't work. Connected them to 5V instead of GND *d'oh*

/edit:

I'll take some measurements before bothering the Trinamic support. I don't understand the driver well enough just yet...

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Nice Johnny!!!

The TMC2130 is also very interesting!

Especially the stallGuard2 function - which offers new ways for sensorless homing

and e.g. an emergency shutdown and also the coolStep function which regulates the current according to the detected load.

 

stallGuard2 provides an accurate measurement of the load on the motor. It can be used for stalldetection as well as other uses at loads below those which stall the motor, such as coolStep loadadaptive current reduction. This gives more information on the drive allowing functions like sensorless homing and diagnostics of the drive mechanics.

 

 

coolStep drives the motor at the optimum current. It uses the stallGuard2 load measurement

information to adjust the motor current to the minimum amount required in the actual load situation. This saves energy and keeps the components cool.

 

Edited by Guest

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Posted (edited) · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

That's why I'm going for the TMC260, which has SG2, too. StealthChop is useless for 3D printers.

dcStep seems interesting, though. The IC package is also very interesting (low-resistance QFN with large exposed die pad instead of qfp with only the "legs" as electrical contacts).

Well, I'm still in the design phase for my next project, maybe I'll actually switch drivers :)

The TMC2130 is not suitable for a Marlin platform, though. There's no headroom for integrating it's advanced features..

/edit:

The new TMC2130 costs almost double as much as the TMC2100... Not much of a difference to the TMC260, though.

Edited by Guest

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Posted · STEP-BY-STEP: Installation of SilentStepStick-Drivers on UMO

Help me find a description for the board RUMBA. What you need to cut off the legs at the driver and any jumper switch? Thanks a lot for the help

can you add a photo from board jumpers and lags TMC2100

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