HD Glass - anyone tried it yet ?

[stu_le_brew 42]

anyone got any experience using the new FormFutura HD-Glass, I am particularly interested in how it compares to ColorFabb XT, it is supposed to print at 215-240

My first thought was that it may be re branded Taulman T-Glass but FormFutura sell that already so its clearly different.

its supposed to "lets 90% of the visible light pass through its fibre and has less than 1% haze" impressive claim

[kallisti5 1]

Doing my first print as we speak with it.

I set the plastic to UPET and tuned the nozzle temp to 220C (from default 250C).

Seems to be sticking so far ok to blue painters tape on bed.

Technically the FormFutura is "PETG" plastic... Maybe we could convince Ultimaker to support it with a profile? :-)

[valcrow 145]

You can make your own profiles either by saving custom ones on the machine, or importing from SD card. (haven't tried the latter yet)

[stu_le_brew 42]

thanks for response please report back on how the print worked out

as valcrow has said you can make your own profiles, I did this for XT ages ago but the name is a very creative "custom 1" with no option to change it. With the latest firmware its possible to export/import profiles, I have done export and it leaves a file on the SD card called MATERIAL.TXT which is a very simple one line of text describing each of your settings - should be possible to edit and make your own profile - not tried it yet

Edited April 28, 2015 by Guest

[kallisti5 1]

thanks for response please report back on how the print worked out

Not bad!

 

No sticking issues... definitely *not* clear. Maybe the temp needs to be higher. I'll try 230 and report back.

Thanks for the info on the custom material settings... once I get this ironed out i'll give it a whirl.

[bouali 0]

Hi, please I want to know if the ultimaker2 can work with the PC/ABS

((polycarbonate-ABS)?

[swordriff 119]

PC-ABS prints fine with UM2. You need to protect the Teflon coupler, using ie an "I2K" insulator.  Depending on your firmware you need a fix to allow temperatures up to 275C, allthough it my work with the standard max of 260C.  

If you print at 270 without this extra, it will destroy your Teflon quickly.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5316-higher-nozzle-temperature

Edited April 29, 2015 by Guest

[swordriff 119]

I have a special modified 300C hot end firmware, which you install using Cura, Install Custom Firmware, using of course the cable into the UM2. It will allow 300C. Warning!

When you need it, PM me and Ill mail it to you.

Edited April 29, 2015 by Guest

[bouali 0]

I have a special modified 300C hot end firmware, which you install using Cura, Install Custom Firmware, using of course the cable into the UM2. It will allow 300C. Warning!

When you need it, PM me and Ill mail it to you.

Thank you very much,I try it

[janet-t 3]

I tried it and it is really great, printed on 218ºC and the transparency is great, easier to work with than XT, no stringing, and can be printed much faster to get the same transparency. Fan settings can be normal and still get the transparency. I printed a fan with it, on 50 mm/s and this was the result.https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/331-the-first-print-with-hd-glass

[stu_le_brew 42]

I bought three reels of TGlass (clear, red and blue) and am quite pleased with the results, but is a bit variable for small objects it prints really very clear. But for tall objects it can be less clear - still experimenting with temperature and fan speed

My reason for posting is, having just finished a big print run (almost 100 objects and a few 9 hour prints too) in TGlass, I have now switched back to PLA but had lots of problems, which were resolved eventually with four "atomic" cleans the last at 235 degrees. So my conclusion is that its very sticky and must leave some residue in the extruder - working well again now

 

For information I use an Olson block and an I2K spacer from @swordriff at Solex - very pleased with them too

Edited August 14, 2015 by Guest

[shurik 87]

My reel of the Formfutura TGlass clear is on its way.

So, what would be the recommended settings for it? Speeds, temperatures, etc. Can it be printed on the clear glass or a glue stick is needed? Is I2K spacer mandatory?

And - how strong is it, compared to the regular PLA?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Edited November 29, 2015 by Guest

[stu_le_brew 42]

TGlass can be prone to some warping at the corners of a print linked due to poor bed adhesion, so I usually use a glue stick.

It seems to be more clear when prining at lower temperatures and with thin walls, but it seems better to get it flowing with a higher temp, I usally start at 220+ and drop to 212.

[Myrightfoot 1]

Hi. Do you guys think HD glass is a good substitute for ABS, seeing as ABS can be a problem with warping and sticking to the bed?

I want to print parts (machine gun, etc) for those remote controlled airplane models and then paint it to look like the original?

[martl 0]

Hi Guys

I am using Formfutura HD-Glass and am trying to print on my Ultimaker 2 with no success.

I have tried Temps from between 218 - 250 and the material does not extrude when printing

Does anyone have any suggestions as to why this is happening and How i can print correctly with this material?

[yafsha 0]

Hi,

I just bought the HD glass and am about to try it out. Do you know if you can use it with HIPS or PVA support?

Also, does your print have a low infill or is it hollow? I want my print to be as transparent as possible but am wary of the infill causing it to be really opaque.

[ungutknut 4]

HDglass is a nasty material - at least for me. I've wasted 90% of a spool now for almost only unusable prints.

Stringing is my main problem; also the high viscosity of the extruded material and the tendency to curl and stick to the nozzle leads to small balls on the print that are dragged around and eventually causing bumps, leaks, strings and so on.

If you're planning to print single-wall objects it's quite fine - pretty elastic and transparent and no problems at all (ok bridging is not perfect).

But as soon as there's more than one wall (especially if there's infill: the horror, the horror!) my printer produces a stringy mess and there's no transparency anymore.

On my printer (wanhao i3 + metal hotend) I also need a very high temperature to prevent it from clogging the nozzle. 245°C is alright for me. Below 240°C will lead to clogging sooner or later.

Until now I've tested temperatures from 220-250°C and all possible settings for retraction - to no avail. Still strings and bumps and sticky nozzle.

For maximum transparency it's advised to disable cooling btw.

However I'm glad that my HDglass experience didn't stop me from trying PET-G filament. With the cheap PET-G from dasfilament.de I've had a positive experience although it's less transparent and slightly harder.

[ungutknut 4]

Hi Guys

I am using Formfutura HD-Glass and am trying to print on my Ultimaker 2 with no success.

I have tried Temps from between 218 - 250 and the material does not extrude when printing

Does anyone have any suggestions as to why this is happening and How i can print correctly with this material?

 

I found out it tends to clog the nozzle when going from PLA to HDglass or vice versa. It seems that increasing the temperature after a change for some time and extruding some of the recently inserted filament works for cleaning the nozzle.

Some people even have dedicated nozzles for PET-G because of that behaviour.

[3dm_kw 0]

Hi, may I know what speed did you guys print HD glass?