UMO Dual Extrusion and Heated Bed Upgrades

[msurunner 2]

From poking around on the forum, it sounds like the general consensus is that when using both the Dual Extruder Upgrade and Heated Bed Kit, you need to use both power supplies to handle heating all three congruently. After fixing an issue in the harness and getting the new firmware uploaded, I flipped on the UM and was really excited... for about ten seconds. After initial power up, the printer seems to have a power flicker, the UltiController goes black/flickers and you can hear a motor click like it's getting powered up/losing power. Thoughts?

[Dim3nsioneer 397]

Have you run either the dual extruder upgrade or the hbk alone before?

[msurunner 2]

Have you run either the dual extruder upgrade or the hbk alone before?

Nope. Ordered them up together.

[gr5 1,025]

Do you get this symptom before heating the bed or either nozzle? You only need both power supplies if all 3 are powered on at the same time.

I bet you have a bad 24V power supply. Does it have a blue light during these symptoms? Maybe you can measure it. Maybe your power plug was just loose? I would check to see if 24V is reaching the tiny added circuit board that comes with the HBK.

[Dim3nsioneer 397]

As I understand it both power supplies are connected when the effect occurs. I suggest to disconnect both PSUs and connect the printer via USB cable in order to check if the Arduino is still ok.

If it is, next step would be to connect only the 19V PSU but with DISCONNECTED z-motor.

[msurunner 2]

Do you get this symptom before heating the bed or either nozzle?  You only need both power supplies if all 3 are powered on at the same time.

I bet you have a bad 24V power supply.  Does it have a blue light during these symptoms?  Maybe you can measure it.  Maybe your power plug was just loose?  I would check to see if 24V is reaching the tiny added circuit board that comes with the HBK.

It does it's weird power down thing at various times, but almost always before I can even target a heatup. Sometimes when the card is unplugged/plugged in, sometimes when a menu item is press, or if you just wait it will "shut down." The 24v PSU stays lit the whole time. I thought maybe there was a cutoff on the board that was tripping because I had wired it incorrectly but I have disconnected the 24v and attempted to fire it up from the 19v and gotten the same response. I thought the jumpers I soldered over from the switch to the smaller PCB might be having an issue, but disconnecting that connector doesn't change the outcome. I inspected the unions on the switch to the main PCB to make sure I didn't overheat them soldering on the switch jumpers, and while it's difficult to say with 100% certainty on any electrical component, they appear to be fine (especially with the size of the lead and the amount of power it's used to carrying) and I don't think that I was in the area with the iron long enough to cause a problem.

[msurunner 2]

As I understand it both power supplies are connected when the effect occurs. I suggest to disconnect both PSUs and connect the printer via USB cable in order to check if the Arduino is still ok.

If it is, next step would be to connect only the 19V PSU but with DISCONNECTED z-motor.

The Arduino is okay, I even tried swapping it out with a freeduino Mega that is rated up to 23v to be able to say that the chipset isn't being overpowered. I tried the disconnected Z motor and I got the same result (I was able to target a PLA preheat in Nozzle 1 beforehand and then it pooped out. I didn't try the various other fail points, but I would bet money they will hold true still too).

[Dim3nsioneer 397]

What happens if you preheat the other nozzle (do you count them as 0 and 1 or as 1 and 2?)?

[msurunner 2]

I was using the menu's terminology (Nozzle 1 menu equaling 0 in the firmware). I just preheated 2 (1 in firmware) and it started feeding it power, and powered down. As I go to power it up again, the time to "failure" is inversely related to the time from the last power up. If I wait a couple of minutes, I can get it to stay on longer than if I flip it back off and on right after the failure. I am getting a MIN_TEMP on Nozzle 2 (FW 1) now on power up. I did have a runaway there when I first fired it up because of a cross in the umbilical cord that I didn't check for when I first assembled it until I smelled melting PEEK after turning it on (not heating it, just turning it on). I swapped the wires in the plug and grabbed the PEEK section from my older hotend and swapped them out and the hotend was registering the same 22 C as Nozzle 1 (FW 0) and wasn't heating without a command (or at least I don't think it was because it didn't get too hot in the ten-thirty seconds of life)

[Dim3nsioneer 397]

Uhm... I lost you somewhere. So did you actually try the other nozzle?

Edited May 5, 2015 by Guest

[msurunner 2]

Uhm... I lost you somewhere. So did you actually try the other nozzle?

Yeah, that's what was triggering a min temp error. After letting it sit for a little bit, I no longer have a min temp error (didn't touch any wires what so ever). However, the problem persists.

Edited May 5, 2015 by Guest

[msurunner 2]

Is there a wiring diagram floating around anywhere with the designed circuitry for adding the kit to the UMO's electronics vs assembling with the newer electronics? Just for comparison's sake...

Edited May 5, 2015 by Guest

[msurunner 2]

Okay, total dolt moment... I had one of the drivers reversed... I still trip a min temp with Nozzle 2 on heating it up, but I at least have something that will run long enough to diagnose now. Interference in the wires?