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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

PLA works fine -- no need to mess up with ABS ;)

For me changing to the GT2 belts/pulleys and these blocks are the best update I did on my printer in term of quality improvement (to be honest this printer is quite old, and the MXL/wooden blocks were end of life -- nevertheless, results are better than what I get from my newer printer)

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

Great mod. It's printing quite nice now. I changed the twisterblocks to not loose the 3mm I was losing on the change. Super!

image.thumb.jpg.d0931082b751c84fce8b2bee40f93245.jpg

 

@neotko, I see you changed the blocks so it's not loosing any buildvolume. The Standard blocks from chopmeister will "eat" 2mm on each side which is a total of 4 mm. Would you mind sharing your versions? I would probabyl go for your mod... that would increas my buildvolume even by 1mm ;)

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jzaajbtmj44ovy2/twister-modified3mm.stl?dl=0

I did just a 3mm bolean cut of the original files. I think I also changed the m3 nut hole so the nut could go in deeper because something happened with the size of the screws I had available.

 

Thanks @neotko, great. Boolean cut? Ah ok. I was just playing with the STEP and I thought it would probably be ok to just take away 2mm of the blocks and also from the clamps... that would still be a bit more than 10mm of clamping space for the rods vs. the 12mm in the original.

How do they hold up for you (I guess you printed them in PLA? infill? perimter lines? If you remember... ).

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Posted (edited) · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

Ha, and I assume the plated version is the one you printed... I just figured out that I could print the rod clamps like you did vs. me dummy printing the flat on the bed (small brim after printing...). For that alone you get a like and a thanks! :)

Edited by Guest

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

I really don't remember my settings. But I suppose 26 infill and 2 perimeters also I think 0.15 or so. They work quite fine no problems or break so far on natural colorfabb pla that I had no other use for.

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

 

Just wondering about this mod. Can this be done without direct drive and if so.. The side blocks, it's a must to change them? Thankss

 

Absolutely -- I am still in 'regular drive' as you can see here:

18564633342_2d08d1d751_n.jpg

For the short belts you need 101T (202mm) and for the motors you need pulleys with 5mm bore (instead of 8mm)

So in total you need:

 

  • 4 303T belts

  • 2 101T belts

  • 10 8mm pulleys

  • 2 5mm pulleys

 

You will need new X-Y blocks because the GT2 belts are 4mm shorter so they will be too short for the original clamp system.

And you need to change the pulley ratio in your firmware (same value as for direct drive, this does not change)

 

@amedee, just one question, did you first install the new belts / twisterblocks and afterwards the spacers or all together? I am wondering if the I measure the spacers right now if they will still be the same after the GT2 upgrade?

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

I installed the spacer afterwards. But I am not sure it matters much, from the spacer thread it seem that we all end up with the same measurements...

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

thank you! ... that's exactly where I am coming from. I thought, perfect, I print them the same as you did and then there was this post from @Pinguinblend, with differnt measurements...:

 

Installed it yesterday, works perfect! :D

5a330f3078845_2015-07-0111_36_32.thumb.jpg.be7a98d1be5cf2feda1844522e0edb7d.jpg

dimensions of my spacers:

back 29mm

sides 19mm

front 10mm

 

but ok, I will just print it with your measurements and see if I can install it all together. Worstcase I need to install the standard wooden - endcaps again and print new spacers... I guess :) So I will print:

back: 2x35mm

front: 2x14mm

right: 2x19mm

left: 2x19mm

correct? I will need to verify this when I am back home...

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

More or less ;)

(You don't need the spacer where you have the drive pulleys)

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

:p yeah of course... thanks!

So, that means I have everything, twisterblocks, gt2 belts and new pully's, (spacers and open endcaps soon), M3 HW, let's go (probably on the weekend)!

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

To come back on the measurements, you want your belts exactly above/under the axes (at least with the chopmeister's blocks).

So I don't see how you would come with completely other numbers, unless you have other blocks, or put your pulleys the other way around (which is probably what Pinguinblend did)

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

Great hint, yes, that could be, pulleys rotated. I still have to measure the distances exactly, but on a first check I am at the same measurements as you. Thanks.

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

To come back on the measurements, you want your belts exactly above/under the axes (at least with the chopmeister's blocks).

So I don't see how you would come with completely other numbers, unless you have other blocks, or put your pulleys the other way around (which is probably what Pinguinblend did)

 

@amedee, the measurements are spot on, I installed everything inc. chopmeisters blocks, new short and long GT2 belts, pulleys and spacers + caps (plush new bushings). Great and thanks again!

All fits perfectly, BUT the new bushings I got from robottdigg... 2 are good, the other 2 not so much (shame I have not tested this before... ) so I am to replace all robottdig bushings with my old UM bushings (wanted to avoid that to keep the wooden blocks intact). Grr.... I mean it prints perfectly, but I can hardly move the head by hand... so I guess the motors have a bit more work at the moment.

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

Happy to see it helps ;)

 

wanted to avoid that to keep the wooden blocks intact

 

Yes, it is quite difficult to get the bushing out without damaging the blocks. On the other hand, I don't think you will ever want go back to the wooden blocks after using printed ones :p

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Posted (edited) · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

Yes, it is quite difficult to get the bushing out without damaging the blocks. On the other hand, I don't think you will ever want go back to the wooden blocks after using printed ones :p

 

that's also true, I will rip them appart and re-do the whole thing... but not this week anymore... I have enough of pully fixing :)

Edited by Guest

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

... I did it anyway tonight, ripped the old umo blocks appart (without actually destroing them), took out the bushing and replaced them... my printhead moves like jagger (again). So all good. ;)

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

Please, can you confirm, if it's all I need:

- print ultralight-xy-blocks by lars86

- buy 4x 303T belt (606mm)

- buy 2x 101T belt (202mm)

- buy 10x 8mm pulleys

- buy 2x 5mm pulleys

- change the X and Y steps/mm to 80

- be happy to print with greater quality:)

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

is there any reason why you couldnt use off the roll type gt2 belt rather than continuous loop, just finding it them hard to get in UK

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

is there any reason why you couldnt use off the roll type gt2 belt rather than continuous loop,

 

sorry for a stupid question (I'm collecting parts for a fully diy UMO build) - there seem to be 2 types of belts "endless" and a "loop"? or did I confuse something? what is the difference?

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Posted · MXL vs. GT2 - print results

Quite simple really loop means it is in a closed loop in one piece like a rubber band so each belt is a set length

endless it is like a ball of string :-) so you just cut of what you want and find someway of joining it.

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