[hot-end isolator cannot screw onto the thread of the brass Olsson Block]

My new steel coupler from 3dslex arrived this morning.

No problems at all fitting it, and now everything works ok.

Thanks a lot for your help guys.

Stephen.

[hot-end isolator cannot screw onto the thread of the brass Olsson Block]

Unfortunately some of the older Olsson blocks have a tight fit and some of the UM steel couplers also and if you add slight corrosion you just can't get those together.  All the Olsson blocks sold through me in USA are sent through the die (look up tap & die if you don't know what this is) one more time so they don't bind up like this.

so you can either spend $10 or so for a die and fix your own or you can send the Olsson block back and demand one that has a looser fit.  Or you can buy your steel coupler from 3dsolex or create3D.  Those always fit.

In other words if you get the Olsson block and steel couplers built by 3dsolex they always fit.  But if your steel coupler is from Ultimaker then *sometimes* it's a tight fit.  Much too tight.

Incidentally you should have heated only the round steel coupler but not the block.  You want the coupler to expand but not the block (metals expand when hot).  And use a drop of wd40 also.

 

I have now ordered a steel coupler from 3dslex.

Incidentally I only heated the coupler, but I must admit the idea of applying WD40 as well did not occur to me at the time, good idea since it removes rust as well...Let me see what stories the new steel coupler has when it arrives and progress accordingly.

[hot-end isolator cannot screw onto the thread of the brass Olsson Block]

The question is where you bought both Olsson block and stainless steel coupler from. If both are from an 'official' source such as any 3dSolex or Ultimaker reseller it could be that an Ultimaker stainless steel coupler could be deformed due to its thin walls. In this case replacing the stainless steel coupler is the solution.

 

The Isolator is the original that came with my Ultimaker 2.

I bought the Olsson block from Create3D.

[hot-end isolator cannot screw onto the thread of the brass Olsson Block]

While assembling the Olsson block I found that I was only able to screw the block by about 3 revolutions onto the hot end Isolator.

I then cleaned out the inside of of the isolator to remove any plastic.

I still could not screw the isolator to Olsson block.

So I heated the isolator and block with a hot air blower and tryed again while the two were hot, I was then able to screw it in with a lot of muscle and huge pliers about half way but not all the way.

This meant that when I assemble everything back the block makes contact with the outside fan holder which I think is the reason I get temperature errors when I print.

My question is, are there more than one size available for either the block or isolator?

Would greatly appreciate any help and ideas as currently I cannot use my UM2 because of the problem.

Stephen.

[Z-Motor stops moving]

I managed to unblock the nozzle with an acupuncture needle one end and a small allen key the filament end.

since I seem to be able to print just about everything non-orthogonal of any height I was just wondering If someone has sufficient curiosity about this problem and a few centimeters of filament to spare who would be willing to print a 75mm X 58mm block and see if they can go past about 20mm height. I would be interested to know the results. :cool:

 

[Z-Motor stops moving]

1) What country do you live in? (This is an important question - but I don't want to explain why - please update your profile location to indicate your country).

Austria

2) So can you explain the symptoms again? Does the head knock the part off the bed?

No, maybe it would have done if I let it go on.

.

You say it's grinding into the part. Do you abort the print at that point? Or does the head just keep moving and moving with Z never moving and no more filament coming out? Or is it printing in the air? With the head above the part by a little gap but the filament isn't coming out?

Yes I abort as soon as I see the problem, it appears that at that point no more filament is coming out.

3) If you hold the z screw while it's printing the "failing" area you could feel if the shaft is spinning a small amount between layers.

I visually note a reference on the z-spindle, check it for change, I do not see it change.

4) I see you are printing with brim. Is that working? Or is the part lifting off the bed on the corners?

The brim is working ok and is not lifting at the corners.

5) What is your: print speed, layer height, nozzle temperature? (these 3 numbers combine to let me know if you are printing at reasonable flow rates - knowing only 2 of the 3 numbers doesn't help much).

I changed the speed from 50 to 150, layer height .1 to .25, temperature from Cura default (around 220?) to 240.

Notes.

1) While NOT printing this model I have successfully printed other organic models with all these combinations with predictable results i.e speed effected quality etc. Including extreme values on the same model for study.

2) Now the head is blocked and so I am truly stuck! The last time this happened I unloaded/loaded filament which fixed the problem but this time it is not working even after setting temperature to 260

 

[Z-Motor stops moving]

The image is at

www.myinfohome.com/height problem.jpg

See notes below

The images are more or less in chronological order starting from the back and moving towards the front.

 

• Furthest to the back are two identical Images of the failing print both having the error at exactly the same height.
  
• Next row forward a block of the same X and Y dimensions but without hole in the large horizontal plane (this reached about twice the height of the failing models before showing the same grinding).
  
• To the right of this is a small cube which went well passed the height of the failing models.
  
• The bracelet and pig were printed afterwards to see if there are any problems with orthogonal angles (they were both printed ok).
  
• More prints of the failing model were subsequently attempted using different combinations of resolution and speed but problem did not go away, and the failing height was identical.
  

 

[Z-Motor stops moving]

Thanks for the response.

Sorry in my post I meant dimensions 30 X 50 X 20 mm (W,L,H)

To my perception it did sound as if it is trying to move the bed down in the form of a momentary stepper motor buzz after finishing a layer.

I turned the machine off and lifted the bed passed the error point then let it free fall, it stopped at the error point but extremely little force was needed to allow it to continue. There is a bit of a click at the error point, but there are other similar clicks as it continues it's free fall downwards, it does not stop again for the rest of the fall.

For testing I made another model 20 X 20 X 20 and it seemed to go passed the point (Z direction) where three attempts of the model I am trying to print failed. This might at the very least remove possibility of end stop fault.

 

[Z-Motor stops moving]

Hi all,

I have barely used my UM2 (less than a week) and have what appears to be a serious problem.

I am printing something about 30 X 50 X 20 cm (W,L,H) . It is not complicated at all... a simple mechanical 2 dimensional block (as opposed to organic) there are only 90 degree angles.

When it reaches a height of about 8mm, it seems the z-motor stops advancing downwards and eventually the head starts grinding against the model.

I am very disappointing since I changed to this rather expensive printer from a kit one in order to not have to contend with such basic problems and concentrate on printing rather than repair. I also noted the emphasis on 'reliability' in the adverts.

Should I return the printer or does somebody know of a quick and 'lasting' fix?

 

[incomplete start wizard]

Thanks all for your suggestions, I will try some this evening when I get back.

 

[incomplete start wizard]

I received my UM2 with spool holder missing. so i decided to do all the start wizard steps until the step where i have to thread the filament with the idea that when the spool holder gets sent i will continue from there. so i switched off the machine at that stage.

In order to 'rehearse' the 'resume' plan i switched the machine on again only to find that it had rewound the wizard from the start as if i had not completed any start wizard steps!

I do not want to redo calibration when the spool holder arrives, is it safe to just press 'CONTINUE' at each step i already completed until i reach the step i want to continue from or will the bed leveling etc be thrown off?