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  • Posts

    • I'm guessing your normals are backwards for the walls of that hole.  The "normal" is what tells cura which side of triangles in the model are inside and which are outside.   Did you create this model?  If so you can fix this in cad.  If not there are free programs to fix the normals.   If this model is from blender google about the "remesh modifier".  And also about "normals" in blender. More here: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/tutorial/prepare-your-model-3d-printing-blender/ If this model is from sketchup read this: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/   drag and drop mesh repair service: https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php   cura mesh tools In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools".  Then restart Cura.  Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then if that passes choose "fix model normals"  
    • Did you check the wire connection to the print head? I have add similar problems and invariably reseating that connection solves it.  You have to undo the two bolts on the top of the print head to get at it. 
    • In Cura there should be two extruders on tabs above the settings.  Click on the extruder you don't want to use and de-select the "enabled" box. It's really hard to tell what's going on without a project file.  Here is the settings dialog with the extruder tabs.
    • THanks to all who have made this possible. Has anyone been able to create a Cura file for the Raise 2N+ ? I've been trying a variety of files found on this page, but they don't quite work with the 2N. Anyone know how to implement Cura with the Raise 2N? So far its pretty tricky. Any help would be appreciated.
    • Der Sensor ist ein PT100 und der Widerstand sollte bei 20°C so etwa 108 Ohm betragen. Wenn Du den Sensorstecker aus dem Mainboard unter dem Drucker rausziehst, kannst Du den Widerstand am Stecker messen. (Wenn der Stecker noch im Mainboard steckt, bekommst Du vermutlich einen falschen Wert wegen der Elektronik dahinter. )  Dann kannst Du auch am Kabel und an den Anschlüssen am Heizbett wackeln und schauen, ob der Widerstand sich ändert. Ich hatte den Fall, dass der PT100, der als SMD Bauteil direkt auf der Unterseite des Heizbettes gelötet ist, gerissen war. Wenn ich auf den Sensor gedrückt habe, hat sich der Widerstand geändert. Wenn der PT100 warm wird, steigt der Widerstand. Das kann man simulieren, wenn man den PT100 mit dem Finger warm macht. Bei 30°C sollte der so bei 112°C liegen. So kannst Du die Ursache oder die Stelle, wo der Wackelkontakt ist, vielleicht finden.
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