3D printing forums

Ahhh ok. My misunderstanding...

I wasn't trying to say an overabundance of vitamin D causes cancer, you're absolutely right that it's DNA being broken down by the UV radiation (for most skin cancers). Just the irony that a) humans need sunlight to generate an important vitamin and b) sunlight hurts humans.   Not always. Don't know about anywhere near all of them but I know having vitamin C levels too high causes gastrointestinal issues. Too low causes scurvy, matey 🏴‍☠️.

I find that Cura and OctoPrint both underestimate by about 50% in my case. But I also made my printer definition with the printer's maximum speed/acceleration/jerk in it and then limited the maximum acceleration and jerk in the firmware without updating the definition. So that explains mine 🙂

Walls take precedence over skin (top/bottom). You can see there is skin being generated in the bits at the end that stick up and underneath the battery, but for the rest of it there are so many walls there isn't any room left for skin.

I'm pretty sure I know what you're trying to do. I'm trying to explain that the travels aren't a problem unless strings are unavoidable with your filament. You'd also like to achieve this: on layer 15. Which you can get by setting Top Surface Skin Layers to 0 and setting Top Layers to 6 (one more than the number of layers the text protrudes). Though then you still have some travels on 9-14 where it's printing infill for the letters and skin for the rest. But having some travels isn't a problem. There is a "too many" travels. I know this first hand. Your print is not even close to "too many".   Sort of about that... the project file says you're using PLA, but you're running it at 240° - which is a very un-PLA temperature (regular PLA I usually run at 200°, "PLA+" I run at 210° but it can depend on brand because they use different formulas). Makes more sense if you're using PETG, but then you should increase the bed temperature (it likes a nice toasty bed of 80-90°).   Then there's the speed - as a general rule regular PLA is good at 60mm/s, so probably best to set the Print Speed poorly named setting to 120mm/s (which will make it do the infill that fast and everything else at half that). PETG I tend not to stray above 40mm/s, so if that's what you're using... I think you can do the maths.   And with either one, run your fan at 100%! If you're worried about how long stuff takes to cool then blowing cool air onto it is the best way to help that. Unless you're printing with ABS, which you really shouldn't use unless you have a really good reason to.   Looking at your picture, my first instinct is "Z offset is wrong and nozzle is too close". I know the E3V3KE has an auto Z offset. My E3V3SE does too... but that doesn't mean it gets it right (I usually need to raise the nozzle by about 0.02mm over what it levels).   "Bottom" means "hold the print directly above your head and any flat surface you see is bottom". Likewise, "Top" is "look straight down on it from above and any flat surface you see is top". Since the letters aren't visible from below they don't have any bottom.   Now, the following might seem overly critical 👎 but I'm only trying to help 👍 Things you have to change in your settings: Walls > Wall Thickness should be at least 2x your line width (like it is automatically, except for thinner line widths, where it will use enough walls to get to a certain thickness). A single wall is not strong enough for... well anything unless you're planning to put it on display on a shelf and never touch it. If you insist on using Top/Bottom > Top Surface Skin Layers to try and get your ideal finish (and you shouldn't need to) then 0.1mm lines are too narrow to reliably print. The guideline for line width is 60-150% of your nozzle diameter, which for your "standard" 0.4mm nozzle means you shouldn't go thinner than 0.24mm. Not as much of a problem with a direct drive extruder (because it can control the flow better) but it's just next to impossible to get a stream that narrow to come out of a hole ~63x its size in exactly the place you want. "But Slashee, doesn't ironing use lines that thin?" Yes, it does. But it also does it right on top of material. It's not a stream of filament which has to go down a whole layer height and still stay in place and try and form a shape of the correct line width and height when it hits the bottom. 99% infill density is just weird. Either go whole hog and set the number of top layers to the total layers in the print (essentially 100% infill, and it'll probably generate the effect you want) or lower it to something sensible and strong enough to withstand a bit of punishment (20-30% usually). Match your temperature settings to your material: I don't know of anything that would print at 240° with a bed at 60°. PETG prints around that temperature but likes a hotter bed (I use 90°). PLA goes a hell of a lot lower than that (as I said before, about 200°) but the bed temperature is right. ABS runs higher than that (in what little I've done I used 255° IIRC) and likes a hot bed (about the same as PETG). Slow down - and make sure your speed matches your material: Unless you have specialty "high speed" PLA, it should be printed at about 60mm/s. PETG, closer to 40mm/s. ABS (which I really hope you're not using) about 50mm/s. The infill being double the speed isn't a particularly big problem since it doesn't get seen. Cooling > Fan Speed should be 100% for most materials. We want this stuff to set quickly so what comes later adheres as well as possible. The main exception (until you start getting into the really exotic stuff) is ABS (which as I said, hopefully doesn't apply to you), that will warp if you look at it the wrong way, let alone force it to cool at anything faster than it does when it just sits there.