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  • Posts

    • This seems to have been an exercise in how to feel like an idiot online!   - i was playing around with getting the Anycubic Kobra to print a little better and was using a modified S5 profile with the Kobra print dimension overlay.    You are correct - i just activated The generic Kobra and BAM, Works.    another problem solved!    Thank you. 
    • well, When we talk about layer height and squish, arn't we talking about a layer height higher that the Nozzle height. Which is also the Z Offset + the height of the nozzle at start."the paper calibration height". Now, assuming that this is correct then the Height of the first layer does have to do with the amount of Squish at least by the nozzle. If the layer height is lower that the nozzle then there is going to be no squish resulting by the nozzle pushing the filament into the bed. Maybe there is squish caused by something else? Now, I am rethinking all this in a different way. I have used a BRIM and by using the Anti Warping Plugin. Both do a good job at getting a good first layer and the Layer height of a BRIM is pretty thin. I am thinking that is all you need if your bed is perfectly level. Let's assume it is. One should also make sure it is calibrated as close to level as possible by the paper method. And check the physical bed with a ruler or level (just to have a straight edge only) to see if there is any gaps between the bed and ruler. Also I guess you can use a small ball or something and see if it rolls in any one direction. If so, I would first see if you can replace the bed. That will give you the very best prints bar none. There is no substitute. I have found that I don't even need to use Glue stick if my bed is close to exactly level. Meaning all this other stuff we do to try to compensate, (even ABL TOUCH's etc) are really not needed. There are some companied that will check the level of the build Plate/Bed they send you if you ask. I got an aluminum build plate for my Tevo Tornado printer and they did check it for level. I am thinking of getting another one for my Ender 3 Max printer. I can't tell if my Ender 3 Max bed it level of not level. When I calibration the bed height Left Center, center, Right center; (as well as the 4 corners) Center of the bed is slightly higher (closer to the nozzle) then the Left or right Center leading me to believe that my bed is not level or the frame is still not completely straight. or the wheels aren't alined correctly. I have tried to straighten the frame as much as I could.
    • YES, The layer height is the Height of the actual extruded plastic. Z offset is where the Z height of the nozzle what the print is started. There is a setting for Layer Height for every layer and the layer height for just the First layer also known as the initial layer.
    • There are going to be some lines because you have the bottom pattern set to "concentric".  The lines will be where the nozzle shifts to the next loop. That heavy line going from the middle area to the top looks more like there was an extrusion at the start when the nozzle traveled from the outer wall to start the concentric skin.  If there was no retraction there then you didn't get a Z-hop either.  Check your Travel settings for "Retraction Minimum Travel" and "Max Comb Distance with No Retract".  For that print both should be low numbers like around 3 to 5. You might also try "Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling" and see if it helps.
    • Yes, intermittent under-extrusion and some of it is very severe. The #1 problem with under-extruding Enders is the plastic extruder arm.  They all fail.  100% failure rate.  They have been known to be delivered broken. This is the underside of a failed arm. The only fix for that is an all-aluminum extruder.  They are available all over the place.  I got the one for my Ender 3 Pro from Creality.   Have you calibrated your E-steps?  It is necessary on Enders.  When lines in the gcode file ask for filament the printer must deliver exactly the right amount of filament.  The Extruder Steps/mm can be adjusted to insure what is asked for is what it gets.  I'm sure CHEP has YouTube videos in his Filament Friday's series.   Another common problem on Enders (they all share the same hot end) is a gap developing between the back of the nozzle and the end of the bowden tube.  Long retractions can pull molten plastic into that gap and it makes a sort of o-ring there and impedes the incoming filament. The fix for that is to: Heat the hot end to around 200°. Pull out the filament. Remove the nozzle (carful - it's hot) using a correct wrench and NOT a pair of pliers. Remove the bowden tube from the fitting on the hot end. Shove a calibrated piece of coat hanger (about 1.5 to 1.6mm diameter) down through the heat exchanger and heat block (in a pinch you can use a 12" piece of filament but you have to move fast because the hot end is hot).  I'm betting you will push out a plug of plastic. Cut about 5mm off of the end of the bowden tube using a decent single edge razor blade or equivalent.  The cut must be as close to exactly square as you can get it. Put the nozzle back in and gently tighten it, then back it off 1/2 turn.  The hot end must be at least 180° for this as any plastic that has gotten into the threads needs to be soft. Shove the newly cut bowden tube into the hot end and while holding it down against the back of the nozzle - put the locking clip back onto the fitting. Gently tighten the nozzle. You should end up with the bowden making a decent seal to the back end of the nozzle.  It should be good until the next time it happens.  The bowden tube is a "consumable" and with every trimming it will keep getter shorter until it needs to be replaced.   With your model loaded (either one) and Cura set up ready to slice use the "File | Save Project" command.  Post the 3mf file here and I'll take a look.  
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