[K-type thermocouple on UM2]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the tip, I've looked into the E3D hot end and that looks good.

Isn't it easier to install a separate temperature control with it's own power supply? Then you can use the higher voltage heaters and reduce the current.

How did you manage to connect the thermocouple?

[Sharing some exciting news: the Ultimaker 2+]

I can confirm this. After a plethora of print problems I checked my Pt-100 and found the resistance values to swing wildly from 109 Ohm till 166 Ohm. Hanging in still air, outside the the thermoblock, so room temperature......

That equates room temperature up to 188 deg C while doing exactly nothing!

I've replaced the Pt-100 today and everything works liek a charm again.

Am a bit p****** o** at ultimaker for using inferior Pt-100 though. Cable was too long and wrapped around the PCB. Very good installation practice.... NOT!

Anyway, if you have issues w material flow, delamination and under- or over-extrusion check your Pt-100!

[K-type thermocouple on UM2]

I don't know of a solution to date.

Off the bat you would run into a range of issues, like:

1. The Ultimaker 2 hardware is designed for Pt-100, with electronic components to compensate for the characteristics of the Pt-100. Since the Thermocouple has a completely different output levels, you would need a separate amplifier. But you would have either to bypass the compensation circuitry on the UM2 mainboard or simulate the behavior of the Pt-100.

2. The thermocouple would have to be isolated from ground. A ceramic insulator would suffice.

As a solution, I would try to replace the existing Pt-100 with a ceramic one suitable for high temperature. In the process industry Pt-100's are successfully used up to 500 deg C.

I would like to know how you plan or succeeded in getting the hot end to work at these temperatures the ptfe insulator would certainly fail.

Hope this helps.