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tman79

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Posts posted by tman79

  1. 20 minutes ago, yyh1002 said:

     

    For example, in the extruder offset menu, say the detected z offset is 1.90. 

    Feel the flush point on the z calibration print with finger.

    If the +0.04 section is where the blue is flush with yellow, it means nozzle 2 is 0.04mm lower than ideal.

    In extruder offset menu, increasing z offset will raise nozzle 2 (this is where it's confusing). 

    Therefore, changing z offset to 1.94 will make the two nozzles level. 

     

    Capture.thumb.PNG.6067f130c64d60b7b356c687c19f0dca.PNG

     

    that makes perfect sense, thanks so much!

  2. 32 minutes ago, yyh1002 said:

     

    There is advantage of doing your three step levelling. Because the standard bed levelling detects corners of the bed with nozzle 1, while the nozzle offset detects with center of the bed, there might be discrepancy due to glass not being perfectly flat. However I think the nozzle 1 z offset levelling will overwrite you three point levelling. But IMO the z offset detection is too coarse anyway, i.e. moving increment by turning dial is too much. So what I do to calibrate the z offset is:

    1. Do three point levelling with nozzle 1

    2. Swap to nozzle 2, do z offset levelling, get a rough offset

    3. Print the z calibration model with 0.02 layer height to fine tune the z offset, and update the value in menu. 

     

    Once the z offset between 1 and 2 is calibrated, you shouldn't need to redo z offset levelling in the dual print menu unless you did something to throw away the relative position between the two nozzles, such as changing nozzles.

    The z offset is very valuable, it takes some effort to get it perfect, it shouldn't be affected by bed levelling. 

    In you are only changing beds, you only need to do the standard bed levelling with nozzle 1. Both nozzle 1 and 2 should be good to go. 

    Thanks for the explanation, this was the information I was after. I have to be honest I'm unsure if I put enough time into the Z model calibration. Just to clarify, with the left and right Z models am I looking for the point where the left and right measure the same height from the print bed using claipers? If so do I then adjust the Z offset according to the Z calibration PDF?

     

    many thanks

  3. 17 hours ago, alexjx said:

     

    I'm not sure about the "nozzle 1" offset you are referring...

    The "regular" bed leveling wizzard will guide you to level the bed, and set the "active"nozzle" offset.

    So I normally do that with nozzle 1. After this the bed should be leveled relative to the nozzle. 

    All you have to do is the set the offset of the other nozzle, and that is what the function in the "dual" manual does.

     

    Jia

    Thanks for that Jia,

     

    what I was doing was leveling the bed with nozzel 1, then I would go into the dual extruder menu and set nozzel 1 offset, then change to extruder 2 and set nozzel two offset.

     

    I wasn't sure if every time leveled the bed if I had to do all of the three steps i mentioned above, but it makes sense just leveling the bed with nozzel 1 and then change to nozzel two and set it's offset.

     

    a bit silly of me.

     

    thanks for your help.

  4. I've been using this dual head system with success, it's fantastic, just a question with bed levelling though.

     

    Let's say I want to re level the print bed 

     

    is the process

     

    * Use the bed level wizard using nozzle 1

     

    * then after that, go through the process of doing the nozzle 1 offset and then nozzle 2 offset? 

     

    I ask this because going through the wizard and turning the knobs on the print bed you would never be able to get them exactly the same every time, therefore making the nozzle 1 and 2 offset to the print bed higher or lower.

     

    So is it a good idea to level the bed then do nozzle 1 and 2 offset every time I want to level the print bed.?

    thanks

     

     

  5. 1 hour ago, Anzen said:

    Hi Anzen

    these are the fans I used

     

    Hot end 5V

     

    https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/MC30100V1-000U-A99/259-1541-ND/2757811

     

    12V blowers for cooling

     

    https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/delta-electronics/BFB03512HHA-AF00/603-1361-ND/2560485

     

    these work and fit great in my setup

     

     

     

    1 hour ago, Anzen said:

     

    Bonjour

    Je ne trouve pas les ventilateurs 35X10 et même les 30x15

    Serait il possible de consevoir le support pour des ventilateurs comme sur original

    Merci

     

    Hello

     I can not find the fans 35X10 and even the 30x15

     Would it be possible to consume support for fans like on original

     Thank you

     

  6. 17 minutes ago, alexjx said:

     

    Yes. It does. Same as mark2, firmware will adjust the Z height accordingly.

    After install this mod, you will have calibrate X, Y aligment and as well as Z. Similar to you leveling your bed.

     

    The difference is that, you have to manually do that (with GUI guided you through it of cause).

     

    Jia

    Hey thanks for your quick reply,

     

    So i guess when i mount the heater blocks I just make sure they are offset to each other, To be honest I don't know a great deal about Mark2 but that will change soon enough. 🙂

     

    The GUI you talk about I assume is on the printers LCD like the bed leveling?

     

    hey thanks again much appreciated.

  7. First of all, well done to DXU for making this possible.

     

    Silly question here, I've noticed that both nozzles are never the same height which makes sense given you don't want to drag the second nozzle over the work of the first nozzle. Does the Z axis adjust for the different nozzle height? Also, when installing the heater blocks into the head should these be offset by a certain measurement? and if the Z axis adjusts for the different nozzle height where is this calibrated?

     

    Apologies if this question has already been covered, thanks in advance.

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