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rad_spider

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Posts posted by rad_spider

  1. 5 hours ago, tinkergnome said:

     

    Ok... that's another important thing to know.

    Does the Tenlog printer also use 24V motors? Or is voltage not important for stepper motors? I'm not sure.

     

    Be aware that steps/rev. is not the same for all stepper motors. The motor of the UM2 has 400 steps/rev. (0.9° per step), while the UM2+ uses a motor with 200 steps/rev. (1.8° per step).

    Both are common values, but... what's the value for your replacement motor? This may be.... who knows...?

    The value 311 (steps/mm) is only valid for a motor with 200 steps/rev. and 16x microstepping.

     

    Is buying an UM2+ extruder motor an option? Your favourite Ultimaker reseller should be able to offer such things and it would rule out a lot of guesswork. Just saying...

     

     

    Buying a new UM2 motor? Ah, maybe. I just don't know if it's worth it if I don't know the missing values. If I got definitive numbers for Max. Speed Change (mm/s), Max. Speed (mm/s), Acceleration (mm/s²), and Motor Current (mA) that would be perfect. That way if I know my extruder is messing up with those values plus the e-step numbers that should work, the list of what could be the cause behind it will have shrunk a great deal. I can choose to keep experimenting with the stepper I got or buy the stepper that will work with those values no question!  The latter is more likely.

     

    My latest try I picked what information I could for Bondtech's DDG guide (https://support.bondtech.se/Document/sjUxItjSPQiKm1NH/Bondtech-DDG-Ultimaker-V2.0.pdf) for the UM2 firmware. I don't think it translates well to Duet, or I'm interpreting it wrong. Or it could be the stepper as you say. Tenlog is on github, I could comb through their code next week for details on the stepper motors they use. Maybe I'll learn something useful.

     

    The pictures below show my latest interpretation (which I fully admit could be wrong). Mind you I'm using the steps, I calculated after extruding 100mm of filament. While 825mA, is what I think is meant to be the value used (66% of move power percentage). But I also tried 1250mA (it seems like too much).

     

    Currently, I think it's over extruding with these settings as I'll find a lump of plastic in the middle of my calibration cube on the first layer. A print I've never been able to finish so far. It also sounds like a vacuum on top of that when it extrudes. The clicking is still there, but sometimes more spaced out.

     

    I will resume trying to find an answer on Monday. I refuse to touch the printer on a work day. I need to keep my morale up. But I still appreciate the insight. Thank you.

     

    I'll look into Motor Step Angle next week. Maybe it is part of my problem.

     

     

    DDG values maybe - full.png

  2. 2 hours ago, tinkergnome said:

    311 is the correct number for x16 microstepping.

    But I remember similar problems with interpolation on the extruder motor. Now i use it with x32 microstepping (no interpolation) and 622 steps/mm. Works much better.

     

    In addition: 800mA is quite low if this are genuine Ultimaker motors. Consider to raise the current a bit for testing.

    The same goes for the E0 speed settings. For example:

    max. speed change: 5 mm/s

    max. speed: 50 mm/s

    Acceleration: 1000 mm/s²

     

    Good luck!

     

    Thank you for your response.

     

    I tried 311, and now I've been trying the number I got after calculating the e-steps by the 100mm extrusion test. I'm now factoring in some of the example numbers you added. No idea if it works yet. As I had to declog the nozzle from the last tests.

     

    Unfortunately, my extruder motor is the only third party stepper motor in my machine. Due to my inability to remove the metallic gear of the old extruder from the original UM2 stepper motor. Instead, I installed a spare stepper motor I had for a Tenlog printer I plan to restore and probably sell. It's a large stepper, and I know little about it. Other then it's wiring.

     

    Still, I can't imagine I need much torque for a geared Bondtech extruder. So I'm not sure if increasing the mA will help? I could be wrong. I did raise it up to 900mA for a test, it sounded like it was exerting more then it needed to push the filament.

     

    I did increase the speed and the mA for X,Y,Z. That was always the plan, and it makes sense to me they could use more juice to move faster. I just don't know if faster is better for the extruder? I felt like the clogs and the clicking noise are a symptom of pushing filament to the nozzle too fast.

     

    But I'm going to try again. Hopefully I get a more accurate result. I really do wish someone had all the magic values I needed for this. Well, the extruder is that last holdout to get this thing working. So I'm hoping for a breakthrough.

     

    It just kills me that I thought all I needed to do was level the bed three days ago and it turned into an extension of tinkering with the firmware.

  3. Okay, so I'm doing a test print this morning. And I hear this weird clicking noise from the extruder. Every 4-8 seconds (give or take).

     

    I've heard something similar before, having spent a lot of time messing with the firmware. I'd sometimes discover the bloody config tool defaulted the e-steps to the wrong number. Only it was much more obvious back then with the weird clicking noise (which is likely bad for the filament and the gear inside). This problem should all be past tense after the fixes that have been made. But...

     

    It is still around, only with a longer delay. So I have to ask is 311 really the right number for e-Steps? Or am I missing numbers to get this working right (see second screenshot)? I was trying to avoid calibrating eSteps through the manual method, but I feel I have no choice now.

     

    Help me out here. What went wrong? Has this happened to you?

     

    esteps 1.png

    esteps 2.png

  4. Fixed it! Long story short, the wrong component was plugged into the daughterboard (so the PT100 for the Nozzle was never plugged in). *sigh*

     

    To be fair, these are long wires that I have to push through ports on the UM2 for good cable management. Lost some labels on the wires along the way. Add in the fact that it had been weeks since I last tinkered with it (waiting on that daughterboard I ordered), and that was the recipe for this mistake.

     

    But it's all good now!

    temp sensor fixed.png

  5. My problem has changed since I last posted to one bad PT100 sensor. The bad sensor now reads in the 500s only.

     

    A quick update:

    • I rolled back the firmware on my Duet 2 wifi to 2.05. I may update that all in the future, but for now I'm using it to better match my config file version made by the RRF tool.

     

    • I checked for loose connections to the daughterboard. Found one. Put it back in and tightened it.  Got a good reading at that point, it just turned out to be for the wrong heater. I then tinkered with the config file when I realized the sensors were backwards. The bed sensor is the one that works. The nozzle sensor, I have no idea what is going on. It now reads in the 500s (pic posted below).
    Quote

    Although M305 still seems to work  - for RRF3 one should use M308 instead.

    (according to the documentation here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes)

     

    Here's an example that seems pretty close to your setup:

    https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/19386/pt100-sensor-and-daughter-board-issue

     

    Out of curiosity: for which printer do you use the Duet Board?

     

    Thanks. It's a Ultimaker 2, modified with a BMG extruder.

     

    My issue is starting to look hardware related now. Although I don't think it has anything to do with length of the wire or it's diameter (in the PT100 troubleshoot section), since the bed sensor wire should be similar (at least after rewiring everything last year). I work on this printer periodically if anyone was wondering why there's such a gap between now and then.

     

    Although I'm not sure where the current issue is. It could be a bad connection. The sensor itself? The point of the wire that's spliced? The ferrule tips used for the terminal? Something else? *sigh* I guess I'll explore all these one by one. Maybe I'll find the solution.

     

    But if there is better advice, I'm open.

     

    Edit: Snipped off the old ferrules and replaced them on the nozzle sensor wire. Not the issue. Will resume trying to find the cause tomorrow.

     

    printer temp error 2.png

  6. I have two PT100s (the bed & nozzle), each hooked up to the RTD daughter board (MAX 31865). I followed the hardware guide. The firmware guide, I tried my best. And that's most likely where the issue is (within the code).

     

    I have a picture of the issue below. My config.g file looks like:

     

    Quote

    ; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 2.03)
    ; executed by the firmware on start-up
    ;
    ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.3.10 on Mon Mar 14 2022 15:32:07 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Saving Time)

    ; General preferences


    G90                                          ; send absolute coordinates...
    M83                                         ; ...but relative extruder moves
    M550 P""                                ; set printer name

     

    ; Network
    M551 P""                                 ; set password
    M552 S1                                   ; enable network
    M586 P0 S1                              ; enable HTTP
    M586 P1 S0                              ; disable FTP
    M586 P2 S0                              ; disable Telnet

     

    ; Drives
    M569 P0 S0                              ; physical drive 0 goes backwards
    M569 P1 S1                              ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
    M569 P2 S0                              ; physical drive 2 goes backwards
    M569 P3 S1                              ; physical drive 3 goes forwards
    M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3                        ; set drive mapping
    M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
    M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E420.00       ; set steps per mm
    M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z12.00 E120.00     ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
    M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
    M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z250.00 E250.00    ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
    M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E800 I30            ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
    M84 S30                                 ; Set idle timeout

     

    ; Axis Limits
    M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                        ; set axis minima
    M208 X223 Y223 Z205 S0                  ; set axis maxima

     

    ; Endstops
    M574 X1 Y2 Z2 S0                        ; set active low and disabled endstops

     

    ; Z-Probe
    M558 P0 H5 F120 T6000                   ; disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed
    M557 X15:215 Y15:195 S20                ; define mesh grid

     

    ; Heaters
    M307 H0 B0 S1.00                        ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
    M305 P0 X201                            ; configure PT100 for heater 0
    M143 H0 S120                            ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
    M305 P1 X200                            ; configure PT100 for heater 1
    M143 H1 S290                            ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 290C

     

    ; Fans
    M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1                  ; set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
    M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45               ; set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

     

    ; Tools
    M563 P0 S"Nozzle-0" D0 H1 F0            ; define tool 0
    G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                         ; set tool 0 axis offsets
    G10 P0 R0 S0                            ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

     

    ; Custom settings are not defined

     

     

    My DWC is 3.3.0 (if that's important). Any advice to get the two PT100 sensors working properly?

    printer sensor error.png

  7. 3 hours ago, tinkergnome said:
    • Just to be sure: these config files are for RRF 2.x or earlier - correct?
    • The homing order on Ultimaker printers is: z-axis first and x/y afterwards (simultaneously) - which seems to be the case
    • All endstops are configured as "active low" - which is correct (assuming RRF 2.x - the syntax of M574 is different for later versions)
    • The content of "homeall.g" seems to be correct (IMHO)
    • I think the current status of the endstops is to be seen on one of the duet web control pages (*) - you can check them manually one be one (trigger them by hand)
      (*) Settings -> Machine properties
    • My best guess is a problem with the cabling

    BTW: it seems you've mounted a Bondtech DDG feeder - good choice 🙂

     

    Thanks. ^.^ Yes, those files were franken-steined from older sys files I found online for Duet 3D to use for Ultimaker 2. Changing some of the values to suit my setup (like the extruder).

     

    I ended up researching different parts of the code in the config and homing files. While tinkering with the RRF config tool to try to match the values I saw in the code I saw in the frankensteined files. I ended up figuring out what needed changing in the end.

     

    I just got a clean homing sequence an hour ago with a new set of sys files. Free of grinding noises and quiet. Well, as quiet as any 3DP with silent steppers I suppose. I tested the individual axes to double check it. No issues, thank goodness. The order now is X & Y then Z for home all. Which works for me.

     

    I do appreciate the post. Thank you, and happy holidays! ^.^

  8. I've got homing issues for my Ultimaker 2 (with Duet 2 Wifi board). Here's what it does when I hit Home All in the dashboard:

    • Z axis homes first hitting the end switch (no issues there)
    • Next Y axis homes (hitting the switch, no issues)
    • Finally X axis, where it hits the end switch. From there I can hear the stepper motor grinding. Where the printer ultimately gets stuck.

    Ideas for fixing my homing issues?

     

    I've posted my config and homing files in the zip below. It's the holidays, so I'm casting a wide net to see if anyone online can help.

     

    Note: I also think I read a while back in another thread (I can't recall where) that the homing order is supposed to be Y->X->Z. So if you know how to fix the order (mine is Z->Y->X), that would be really helpful.

    config.zip

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