andi
-
Posts
20 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by andi
-
-
Do you have the 4.7k resistor on the board?
In looking at your second photo, you appear to have the signal side of the temp sensor input connected to one lead of the thermistor. The other lead of the thermistor appears to be connected to a resistor which is then connected to the other side of the temp sensor input which is ground.
If that is the case, it is incorrect.
The blue lead you have on the signal pin of the connector should connect to one side of the thermistor as it does currently. The black lead should go from the other lead of the thermistor to the ground pin where you have the second black lead connected.
However, you MUST have the 4.7k resistor soldered to the board in the R23 position.
Douh! :eek: Now I know what R23 means :-). I was wondering why I did find pictures of the board but I thought it just has to go between the 3 pin connector and the thermistor.
Thanks, I will check out what happens next
-
something is wroooong :(
(This is room temperatur, since I wasn't able to do any heating.)
What happens if you disconnect your thermistor from the mainboard? What does the temperature value say?
I created a custom firmware with the "Ultimaker + Ulticontroller" preset + the thermistor option and the disabled invert for the X axis, since I have a direct drive running. There is no difference if the thermistor is connected or not.
If I install the default marlin firmware out of Cura it says around 31/0 degrees (Error for MIN temperatur for some reason) but only for about ~3 seconds, then it fills up the display with white blocks and you cannot do anything anymore. (like when you do a firmware update)
Any idea? Is my thermistor broken?
-
It's not the last one! The last one uses an 1k pull-up resistor (no clue why...). I made the same mistake...
The correct one for the E3D thermistor is the one which is 4 places lower than the one you selected in the picture above:
100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
No, it doesn't matter for both the thermistor and the resistor (they are non-polarized components).
You should be good to go like this.
Now you just need a mount, right?
I'm in a bit of a rush right now, got a lot to do at work. But I'll get to it asap if you still want me to print a mount for you!
Right now, I'm trying to print Nick's fanduct with Colorfabb XT and see how well it goes. But I think ABS is preferable for that part.
Thanks for clearing the choise! I created a firmware with the 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup) setting.
I will try to cable tie the hotend to the Ultimaker extrusion head to get the mount printed. If this approach fails, I will let you know for sure :grin:
-
I'll add an electronics How-to to my documentation. I am using all the E3D stuff (24V cartridge at 19V for now, later I'll use a 24V Power supply).
This setup now only has about 25W instead of 40, but it still works perfectly fine.
You can connect the small fan to a 700mA DC adaptor, that's no problem. The fan will draw only 80 mA from the adaptor. 700 mA is the maximum for this adaptor, so you could connect several of these fans if you wanted to.
Thermistor is connected the same way as a heated bed thermistor (left and right pin of the 3-pin connector, center stays unconnected). You also need to solder in a 4.7k Ohms resistor (R23) and change the firmware so that it expects a thermistor instead of a thermocouple.
Very good job on the documentation, thanks a lot for your effort!
I got the 4,7K Ohms (0.5W) resistor yesterday and I should be good to go for a test now. Does it matter which cable should be connected left and right on the 3-pin connector? Should the resistor be on a certain side or is this irrelevant?
Which firmware did you choose?
--> EDIT: --> 4 below selected item: 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup) (thanks jonny)
I will connect the "always on" fan with the external DC source for now. Then I will hook up the card cartridge directly to the mainboard.
Otherwise the settings are all the same like before? Do I miss something?
-
yeah nice! I'm excited to see you woking on this
Your design looks nice and sleek. Even more exciting is to see your electronic setup, since I have no clue about that
.You used the whole E3D set: heater block, thermistor and the 24V cartridge? You expected maybe to less power with the 24V cable, right? Is this the case?
Where did you connected the thermistor to? Did you just solder the two wires from the theristor to the 2 left MB connectors (1 pin is useless in this case?)? Did you modify the firmware for that?
Any idea where you will connect the "allways on" fan to? (can i use a 12V 700mA external DC Adapter or will this distroy the 0,08A fan?)
Sorry for beeing impatient but my printer is aleady offline since a month ;-)
-
I will most most likely sit down next week and design a mount as well. All references are already in place
-
That's right. I tried making my own fanduct but it turned out to be a very difficult task for Sketchup (and me o.O), so I just adapted Nick's fanduct mount.
I suppose this solution will work quite well. If it doesn't, I'll look for another solution.
Haven't gotten around to testing it yet (I was kept away from it the whole weekend :().
I'll finsh version 1.0 today and print it. Hopefully I can make a "run-in test" tomorrow (not to say "burn-in test"...)
Any results yet? :-P
I just got the airmail from E3D with the lovely hot end. Very light and nice looking metal piece.
Regarding the engineering: I could put in the effort to reconstruct the piece in CATIA.
I don't know how to hook up the electronics
-
@Jonny: This would be the best possible scenario I can think of! Very nice offer of yours. My girlfriend is in Zürich next weekend, so maybe we can save shipping costs by mailing it to a swiss address of a friend of mine :smile:. Just let me know what I can transfer to your account as a beer donation
Newbie Question: What happens if one would use the UM1 cartridge in combination with the E3D heater block or the other way around? They have a different voltage but isn't the power output controlled by the mainboard anyway? (my understanding of electronics is almost null - I prefer 1 & 0) :smile:
-
I placed my order last night including the request for a 24V cartridge instead! I hope the parts will arrive soon and I can start contributing to this discussion :-).
-
Alright, sounds good with the full kit!
I will place my order tonight. It will take some time to get to me anyway so maybe I'm lucky and you make good progress with your testing and mount design :-)
-
Thank you both for this great summary.
In case reusing the UM block + thermocouple seems to be the easiest way then the shopping list would look like this:
From E3D:
v6 Heat Break (3mm) £9.50
v6 Extra Nozzle - 3.00mm x 0.40mm £4.50
v6 HeatSink - 3mm Bowden £10.00
Bowden Tubing (100mm) (3mm Filament) £0.73
--> Alternative a Metal Only Kit + Tubing
From Ultimaker Shop:
Aluminum Heater Block 15 Euro
Thermocouple Sensor 26 Euro
+ the self printed mount
-
Is anyone willing to do a guide for what is necessary to upgrade a UM1? I'm confused with the cartridge and the temperatur measurement.
I posted my questions recently at the E3D forum (here is probably a better place to do so): http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=196&sid=a9eccff077a163d94395db0ffdb4ca11%20;)
I messed up my hot end so I would need a replacement now. I hope I can print the v6 mount on another printer.
Update: Or is this topic still so experimental that I should by the stock hot end? Is there a cheaper solution to the Ultimaker Shop?
-
For some reason the same thing is happening with my Ultimaker 1 at the moment. I printed hundreds of hours without problems on 220°C with PLA. Today I was that frustrated that I tried 240°C with PLA. The extrusion works just fine again.
Maybe this has to do with high room temperatures? (it was pretty warm the last days. but actually not today :???: )
- You can adjust the pressure from the extruder gear (but there shouldn't be much required)
- Clean your tube
- Clean the extruder
- Cut of damaged filament
If you have grinding spots inside your filament try to increase the temperature. Usually not necessary but check out the result.
- You can adjust the pressure from the extruder gear (but there shouldn't be much required)
-
-
I think i will give the HB from 3dprinting_hk a shot as well. The price is just unbeatable and the design looks briliant.
Did anybody had problems with the german custom while shipping this from Hong Kong? I'm afraid that it could get stuck during import.
I hope that it will work right out of the box with a good guide since I'm not that much interestet in spending hours of bug fixing (there is to much on the to do list already
)Btw - where do I get such screws? http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjQ0WDEwMDA=/z/VJUAAOxywh1TF9Qw/$_57.JPG
-
Looks really nice! Did you discover any down sides by now?
It's this model right? http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/OffersOfProduct/3600422_-nf-a4x10-flx-40mm-noctua.html
I'm think about purchasing this setup as well.
-
I'm waiting since half a year on that upgrade! :(
-
-
Got my new Ultimaker (v1) and it is instantly old. I feel so happy and ripped off at the same time... :-|
.
E3D All Metal Hotend for Ultimaker
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I have almost no electronic knowledge but I'm confident in soldering parts :smile:. So it was no problem to put the resistor in place on the R23 position.The temperature reading looks more likely now.
Will see if I can get a more or less solid print to replace the extruder head. (can be replaced later on again)