[Bad PTFE Coupler?]

I cant push anything through. Its really stuck. I have done the atomic method before but its not working with this one. I guess its just that clogged!

[Bad PTFE Coupler?]

I have been having the same problem on my printer, after 2-3 cm the nozzle is blocked up.

I installed an Olsson block and I have not been able to have a successful print. I got a feeling that the filament is starting to melt (and jam) at the PTFE coupler. Any way how I can find out? Other suggestions? It always seems to block at a certain height.

Im going to order new PTFE couplers, but these are quite expensive...

Thanks for the help!

Thomas

[Solder heater cartridge to old cable]

I don't understand what broke, the cartridge itself? So you want to replace it but use existing wires running along your Bowden tube and int your board?

Anyways... To answer your question, yes you can cut and solder all you want... My heater wire for instance only extends a few cm. and end in a plug (as does thermistor wire), so I can easily remove the entire hotend... Just make sure to cover your wires up nicely afterwards.

Polarity doesn't matter no.

 

Yes! It broke just above het metal tip. Im thinking of cutting it where the cable consists out of 2 seperate wires. Then I am going to cut my new cable in the same spot and just solder that together instead of opening up my UM.

[Solder heater cartridge to old cable]

Hello,

The tip of my heater cartridge just broke for the Xth time. I have been working on this printer for quite some time (was also installing the Olsson block) and dont want to redo everything. Can I cut the tip of a new cable and solder it to the two wires of my old cable? Does the polarity matter?

Seems like a quick fix instead of trying to reach the motherboard again...

[Nozzle gets heated 20°C above set temperature]

Hi everyone,

When I set my nozzle temperature to for example 240, my UM2 keeps heating it past 240.

I see its heats to 260 and then the temperature slowly drops. If I go from 40 to 80, it heats till 110 before dropping.

This isnt normal behaviour right? I thought it slowly approached the desired temperature without going over it by this amount.

Both heater and sensor seem to be installed correctly.

[Holes at start & stop location of each layer]

I keep having this problem on my other ultimaker too. I am using Cura to generate the gcode. Does anyone have other ideas I could try?

- printing at 70% speed didnt help

- printing at 240 degrees (instead of 260 degrees) also did not help

Blobs are always at the exact same location which other settings. I guess I need some other settings for the start and ending of a layer?

[Holes at start & stop location of each layer]

I had the same problem once. For me it was caused  by the sideways motion of the printer so i think you could try lowering the speed a little. Altough the time I had it I was using PLA. I am just trouble shooting not sure tough. also you could try to use the 0.6 nozzle

 

Im giving this a shot as we speak!

[Holes at start & stop location of each layer]

There you have a bridge + overhangs

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints#45-degree-rule

 

Hi Neotko,

I am not talking about the overhang region (?), but the face quality of my print (all the dents and stuff). These occur everywhere, overhangs dont have an influence on it.

[Holes at start & stop location of each layer]

Hello everyone,

I am trying to fine tune my ABS settings for my UM2. I print with:

0.7 nozzle

0.25 layer height

20 percent fill

260 degree head

90 degree bed

I set the speed and temperature to 80 mm/s in Cura, and always turn it down to 80% on my UM2.

I have the following problem (dont know the name for it):

I guess these dents are where one string starts and ends on each layer. What is the name for this problem and what can I do to avoid this?