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Zeno

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Posts posted by Zeno

  1. The print failed because of a commbination of too low temperature and too fast retraction speed (35/mms) for the toolchange, when the tool call 0 comes (pla) the extruder grinded the fillement away...

     

    here some photos of the print:

     

    DSC04707.thumb.JPG.598eb6fbec14d5193ee3ef3f852f7d74.JPG

     

    DSC04706.thumb.JPG.db32b607942ca95d1d0548780ccc51fe.JPG

     

    DSC04710.thumb.JPG.51d97d334ca9a7005ff74dc992e49064.JPG

     

    DSC04713.thumb.JPG.391fbd40a49c43b5233c1e5b01cc5114.JPG

     

    For the next try I changed the retraction speed for the toolchange to 15/mms, the set the temp a little bit up, deactivate the raft and change the support to 10% and 45°

     

    DSC04714.thumb.JPG.adbffd0d9cfac40a905e54b0ffb2123f.JPG

     

    DSC04715.thumb.JPG.90ad12f13709c62ac10a81e78f3a08cd.JPG

     

    printing right now:

     

    Twitch Livestream

     

    Several fails later I changed the modell material to Solid Edge (Black)

    (I have to do some testprints with pla with planed stop times first)

     

  2. Hi,

     

    the current design is working fine but I am on a complete rework which keeps the good parts and replaces the bad parts.

     

    current design:

     

     

    R6.thumb.PNG.50277c0b76d94cc3c621035f35d1a04b.PNGR7.thumb.PNG.4aec6cb0f14e4112652b4948e71a4d14.PNGR5.thumb.PNG.53453a7025e4ebbfea3d637ad12bc6b9.PNGR4.thumb.PNG.fcbd5f54a26b2b010c22d2a627324be1.PNGR3.thumb.PNG.a75988eba577d44fca6196239502e49a.PNGR2.thumb.PNG.c503550ff751b9a665c803f9467a1e0b.PNGR1.thumb.PNG.066addae78e524a3fc620e0ebe3fa5d2.PNG

     

    If you want this current design let me know (without desciption...)

    The final design will be more steady,usable print space for dual exrusion will be 190mm X 200mm Y 200mm Z, and the very noisy 30mm fans will be replaced with bigger and quiter fans.

     

    Zeno

     

  3. First a big thx to all of you for your qualified answers :),

     

    I copied the profile of MarcoUbtz and edited a little bit, works great.

     

    Quote

    Hi!

     

    Sorry for my bad English... I´m better speak and Understand german- English is a lot of Years before at my School time....:-(

    I have another Problem with it - tested on Ultimaker 3. 

    I Use Material with different Temperatures. If I Print Dual with this, the hottest Filament will perfect connect with the colder

    printed Filament. But if it Change, it will only lie on the hot printed Filament but not connect with it. You can pull apart this

    like two parts on the Change Layer.

    You must Change it that if you Print the "colder" Filament, that you set it to the Temperatur from the Hot Filament with M109

    and after that to the Temperatur of the cold Temperatur M104 and start in the same Moment.  So it will print first time to hot,

    but will connect with the hottest Filament and after a short Time it will have the right Temperatur...

    I don´t know, if you understand, what I mean. But it will not work. I must test it with your Skript and another line (M104 at last..).

     

    Greetings and merry christmas

     

    Christian

     

    Which printer do you use?

     

    I can help you to set up an profile for Simplify3D which has seperat temperature for the first layer.

     

    Zeno

     

  4. Hi together,

     

    I have problems to get an idle temp working in a dual extrusion setup. The extruder which isn´t used should lower its temp and the new called extruder should rise temp, but ist doesn´t work.

     

    Atached the script which i added in the toolchange script window in S3D:

     

    {IF NEWTOOL=0};M104 S170 T1 ; idle right extruder

    {IF NEWTOOL=0};M109 S190 T0 ; heat left extruder

    {IF NEWTOOL=1};M104 S170 T0 ; idle left extruder

    {IF NEWTOOL=1};M109 S190 T1 ; heat right extruder

    Printer: UMO (modified dual extrusion)

     

    What i do wrong???

     

    Printer: UMO (modified dual extrusion)

    Firmware: UMOU_17.01

     

  5. I use Solidworks on work for mechancal design. But it`s too expensive to buy a version only for the hobby. I used onhape for my hobby 1 year now, it`s works perfect. I like the cloudbase, i can design at home, drive to the hackerspace open the design on the local computer export it as stl put into the slicer and print it. You can share your documents by link and you can design in one part with multiple people at the same time (it`s working great). I have to say that onshape reached the status of a professional cad programm. And Fusion 360 is just an awsome CAM software for generating g-code for your mill, it`s also free for non comercial use.

  6. Hi Marcin,

     

    here is an example of a g-code which i insert into the script for toolchange (s3d):

     

    ;*************************************************************

    {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10800 X60 Y170 ; Vorwechselposition TOOL0
    {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10800 X60 Y188 ; POS links vor Fahne
    {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F6000 X86 Y188 ; schwenken
    {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10800 X81 Y188 ; entlasten
    {IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10800 X81 Y170 ; Nachwechselposition

    ;*************************************************************

    {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10800 X125 Y170 ; Vorwechselposition TOOL1 Vorwechselposition TOOL1
    {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10800 X125 Y188 ; Vorwechselposition TOOL1 POS rechts vor Fahne
    {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F6000 X93 Y188 ; Vorwechselposition TOOL1 schwenken
    {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10800 X98 Y188 ; Vorwechselposition TOOL1 entlasten
    {IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10800 X98 Y170 ; Vorwechselposition TOOL1 Nachwechselposition

    ;*************************************************************

    The slicer follow this g-code by each tool call and put it down directly in the g-code which is send to the printer.

     

    Atached a slice of a dual print (first long time print test :) ):

     

    5a3a8b1a5a2dd_DualPrint1.thumb.PNG.14a8083cedefba36c970982ef788ede7.PNG

     

    5a3a8b405868b_DualPrint2.thumb.PNG.621fb6a1e970b756c80c107415677e0e.PNG

     

    5a3a8bbb3e476_DualPrint5.thumb.PNG.37b18256700e06f206ca86d18ab8f678.PNG

     

    5a3a8bd12def7_DualPrint4.thumb.PNG.4b4a66af476dc7709938324147633389.PNG

     

    The movemant behind the actual print is to swap the printhead form side to side.

    But you have to set an offset between the two toolheads (depends on your design) in the slicer ore in the firmware!

     

    • Like 1
  7. Hey. Great design !!! I wanted to do the same in the printer I am building, but the implementation in marlin code servo or electromagnetism me over. Can you tell me how you did it? Regards

    Marcin

    Hi Marcin,

    sorry for my late reaction, wasn´t working further in this project till now... I didn´t use an extra servo ore electro- magnet, the switch mechanism is triggered by the x and y axis of the printer outside the print- area (and fixed by perm- magnets). The movement for this switch- operation is put in the slicer with fixed ways for each tool call.

    I can give you an example the next days.

    Meanwhile i got the first test prints out of the new design :)

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/2y3zbaanebivjyl/VID_20171212_230547.mp4?dl=0

    • Like 2
  8. Hi there,

    was a little bit busy in the last weeks thats why don't get realy further in this project. But i did a little practice in the open source cad programm "onshape" which is realy nice to work with. The main benefit to normal cad software is that it runs on many browsers (no install is necessary) and all the files you work on is in the cloud and it's free for open source projects :D.

    The main body is much more durable and the overall movement is already finished.

    Onshape1.thumb.PNG.deda3407096f9c47401621a6b8f155e2.PNG

    Printhead 3D-Link

    Complete Project 3D-Link

    (this Links are always up-to-date thanks to the cloud architecture) feel free to leave me comments into onshape (registration)

    Onshape1.thumb.PNG.deda3407096f9c47401621a6b8f155e2.PNG

  9. rowiac,

    I don't look for a off-the-shelf bearing so far because I want to try out how much the 3D printer is possible to produce this mod on its own :).  The normal PLA performed perfect for this function (I could even double the count of the balls in the bearing to prevent penetration). The main issues comes from the early state of the design.

  10. Same thing to the silicon which i posted, they say that the max hight of the silicon should not overcome 3mm, but that have to be enough.

    Little status update:

    printed the spare printhead with e3d egde a nice material but I have to learn more about its proberties... printed the main body with the same tolerances like PLA, it all gets so tight that I spend hours for postprocessing it. Smaller parts (based on wrong print settings) gets serious layer bonding problems. But the main problem was that it wasnt stiff like the PLA print before, the steel balls penetrates the printed axial- bearing. In the end I overtightend it (to get it free of floating) and broke another parts of the printhead.

    I am happy for the extra back up printhead which I printed before starting this project XD.

    I'll print a stonger version of the last printhead in PLA and XT-CF20 (carbon fiber) this weekend.

  11. Status update:

    I mounted the printhead, the ramps and the new extruder on the UMO.

    Rotary-Parts18.thumb.PNG.686857b276fcf31ccdb5012feb113861.PNG

    Rotary-Parts19.thumb.PNG.102f236327ddd86d3c207e0262040334.PNG

    Rotary-Parts20.thumb.PNG.70ab61a3b49e9aade383e2e4b654b7f0.PNG

    But i got a difference between the CAD-modell and the real one which causes a print space lost.

    Rotary-Parts21.thumb.PNG.12a4cfad55c061941c296030931d6cd2.PNG

    I got some realy strange things with the marlin software... but in the end the printer was ready to run. But the e3d V6 / 24V version don't get enough power with the 19V (watched a youtube video in which it runs...) I simply put the orginal UMO heater in the e3d block. Sadly i broke the main part of the printhead at the lower linear- bearing... I glued it temporarily. Redisigned it much tougher, fixed the collision and right now I am printing it very slowly on the glued printhead ;).

    Rotary-Parts22.thumb.PNG.2d5f9a812c76a3d85e08efb8ec642699.PNG

    • Like 2
  12. Hi Geert,

    i think aluminium will wear out / deform the brass nozzle over an averrage time too. I told my dad about my project and he had already the right silikon for it :p in his workshop. It`s a package of 3 special silikons from which i give the "Dirko HT (+315°C) " the first try (Link to special silicone). I already lay down a layer on a pla print, its sticks to it and its more like a realy soft rubber way more tough than normal silicon. If this doesn't work I'll come back to your idea :).

  13. Meduza do you resume this project?, nice chamber for the UMO!

    We were sketching up different concepts, it started with a servo, but after a while we were more talking about putting neodymium magnets in the two bodies and putting a lever-construction it could run against a stop to push the head to either side, and to put it in the middle position it just pushed a shorter distance against the stop.

    And yes, the three nozzles was for support + small + large nozzle or support + 2 colors

    It was supposed to go on this modded ultimaker:

    337px-Crowdfundedultimaker.jpg

  14. Lovely design, I like it a lot.

    I like the way you use a ramp to switch hot ends.

    Only addition I would add is two screws to adjust the height of the nozzle. I know you use the orange bits and the angle with the clamp screws to adjust the height, but I found that adjustments like this are usually better done with actual screw thread. So besides the clamp screw I would use a perpendicular screw to adjust the height.

    I really like the idea of magnets, it is a good way to get a positive "click" and the fact that there can be no oozing, lovely.

    Lykle

    Rotary-Parts17.thumb.PNG.e5bb86f5eed6d0529c55b99fb03f28af.PNG

    Hi Lykle,

    the orange parts are only the buffer which prevent the magnets for cracks. For adjusting the hight you pull the head on one side to the magnets loosen the screw and adjust the angle a little bit (look at the drawing which i added).

    Greetings Zeno

  15. XD, oure hackerspace wanted a cnc mill too, but my meight starts building a house and I was tired of engineering after work at this time, but we already bought the spindle, motors and the control... A year later one of oure new members needed a "little project" for his school and asked us if he could use the parts to start building a cnc mill. This guy engineered the design the electrical cabinet... just all on his owne... XD he do such a overkill with this mill, but he did it very well. In about 3 months ore so he will finish the project and we get a cnc in oure hackerspace :).

  16. Thx for bringing in new ideas :) . A spring meachnism would be working good too. I like the easy adjustable force which can be reached with switching only the spring. I have to put down a link from a german spring shop where you can get almost every spring: "Spring Shop" and even get all technical data and the CAD files :). But one thing i like to keep on using the magnets is that the trend of the holding force (force/way diagramm) is exponential compared to the mostly linear trend of a spring. Her a some diagramms:

    5a333b3972256_Magnetforce-waydiagramm.thumb.PNG.41bb405a083db8d61cdba84c29933b10.PNG

    5a333b398650c_Springforce-waydiagramm.PNG.9661741cb2e86f41b7aeefd129382daf.PNG

    I want to use the extrem high holding force to fight against the high accelaration of the X-axis to prevent for a swinging printhaed during the printing.

    But it would be looking great too:

    Spring-Mechinsm.thumb.PNG.7c6aa318868d7c81fdce60b69d9452f2.PNG

    5a333b3972256_Magnetforce-waydiagramm.thumb.PNG.41bb405a083db8d61cdba84c29933b10.PNG

    5a333b398650c_Springforce-waydiagramm.PNG.9661741cb2e86f41b7aeefd129382daf.PNG

    Spring-Mechinsm.thumb.PNG.7c6aa318868d7c81fdce60b69d9452f2.PNG

  17. great sketch, I can see all details np. Maybe you can use the "snipping tool" if you're an windows user. (search for it and put down a link in your task bar). After activating snipping tool you can marke your image after this it's already in your buffer ore you can save it as an "png" file for the forum.

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