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luke199

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    DXU - Efficient Dual Extrusion Upgrade for UM2+

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    On 10/10/2019 at 3:03 AM, yyh1002 said:

     

    Thanks. Good observation. On the front housing, there are two bores to restrain the hotend for xy precision, one is above the heatsink and spring, the other is around the bowden coupler. Both bores have teeth around them so it's easier for the hotend to slide. I made the tolerance quite tight and use a drill to spin the hotend inside the housing to run-in. It's metal vs plastic so they fit quite well without being all fixed.

     

    I agree that it's not as precise as UM3's tapered socket solution, technically. But I think it's good enough for 3D printing purpose if fitted well, just like the brass bushing on XY rails. I would like to go with more precise solution if I have easy access to machines. 

     

     

    The PI insulator does go between the nozzle and bowden tube. The bowden tube coming with hotend is intended to be used without PI insulator, so it needs to be trimmed slightly shorter. But the total length of tube+PI should be slightly longer (about 0.5mm) than the shaft to keep the bowden tube in compression so it doesn't get squeezed shorter by hot filament over time.

     

    You need to make sure the nozzle is right up against the heat break, metal to metal. Heat the block to at least 160 degrees before install. And hold the block firmly when screw nozzle in. If there is cold plastic, debris or air gap between the nozzle and heat break, it will leak. 

     

    Thank you, just to make sure it's clear.  I do the follow.

     

    1 place the PI insulator into the heatsink and screw tight into the heater block

    2 screw nozzle in afterwords.

     

    and this would mean the nozzle will stick out the heater block a little more.

     

     

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