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Everything posted by swepet

  1. If you plan to fly it normally it SHOULD be printed in at least two different colors! Since it otherwise looks the same in all directions, and flying a bit away from you that can get very confusing very fast :lol: I intend to put a camera on it and fly it FPV (first person view) using video goggles so monocolor is fine on mine.. The ugliest "color" i think is the natural PLA but i use it a lot for testing.
  2. I's alive !!! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17612
  3. (edited the image link, hope it works now) Landing gear 24,6 grams.. Total frame now = 212.6 grams Sketchup lacks in curved surfaces, i know that there are plugins for it but haven't tried yet... I would like mesh smooth :-) I want to have one mount with gopro for taking nice videos..(fpv via video out from gopro) And i want to have one for just fun fpv, but since the keycam is so small, i just have a mount for it on this piece also... (also less loss if something happens, while flying from my boat etc..) The light weight fpv setup will fly much more agile then to gopro setup.. But
  4. Weight for now is.. motormount: 13,9g Arm: 16,1g (will be a little bit more with the locking ring at the bottom) Center: 42.3g canopy: 25,7g total frame weight = 188g for now, not bad at all... What remains is some type of landing gear and battery holder... Also gonna have 2 different kinds of camera mount that also holds the video transmitter.. One mount should be light weight, with a small ccd camera and a #16 hd keychain camera mount... (if you don't know what a keychain camera is, look at this video ) The other should be a gopro mount.. It should be possible to change b
  5. I did some modifications to make it smaller and also i change the wall to 1,6mm (old was 3mm), and printed, it worked perfectly, thanks for the tip ! (i use SF35 by the way, and marlin firmware.. I haven't got around to try more modern SFs yet.. ) The canopy is only for looks and water protection if it starts raining... I do not need to be strong at all...Weight is more important... I got down the weight down a bit ! I printed it bottom down as before, i prefer that way if possible, it makes the visible top layer look better, then if it had been on the bottom... It was a bit scary th
  6. I printed it like this, no support, no problem at all with the large bridging gap.. (i don't even think it went into bridging mode, i use SF35) Starting to look nice, but it is just a test, need to make room for the receiver also... And it is also a bit heavy, have to reduce the weight a bit... Thinner walls..
  7. I am working on the canopy, that also locks the arms :-)
  8. I did analyze the sound, seams to be just 8kHz... I only have an old oscilloscope and i was to slow to measure these high frequencies :-) So i did listen to the sound instead.. They are the gaui 300x-s escs (re-branded turnigy plushs i think), and it don't sound that bad in the gaui with lowe kV motors.. But now i have to see if i can reprogram them to be 16kHz and perhaps even i2c... Or i just try different ones... I think the mystery 12A is 16kHz... Or do you know any other brand around 12A that is ? It is 1000kv motor that i have ordered now, i got the 1500 kv because they was super
  9. Just to show a little how i use my ultimaker. I am not very interested in printing super high resolution nice things and i usually stick to my 0,3mm layer height. The entire frame is to be made with my ultimaker = just print a new part if i crash and destroy something .. Thins i have left to do is to design a canopy, a battery holder, landing gear, fpv camera mount and such,,, I think i will put the quad up on thingiverse when i have a finished design...
  10. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16550 Here is some files !! I have removed the ammo parts of it and also tried to reduced material used. Haven't printed the new design but hope i didn't make any fatal mistakes,.. About the strength of the flexible part, i think that none of the flexible segments is bent more then 10 degrees, since the bend is divided over a lot of segments.. Also i think flexible parts like this would make a nice screen around a lamp or other things :-)
  11. Just wanted to share something i been working on, making flexible parts with PLA (with regular PLA, i have not tried special flexible PLA). Sliding doors, to be more precise. Here is how i did the door.. The bottom (flexible part) of the door is 0,3mm thick, the ribs are 3mm wide and 3mm high (makes total door height = 3,3mm), and the spacing between them are 1 mm. Door is printed with a layer height of 0.1mm, making the flexible part 3 layers. The trays the door slide in i made 5mm wide.. And it doesn't feel like it would break of stress, i think it will last a long time.. So remember t
  12. Mostly i use google sketchup, but for more modelling stuff i like blender. The easiest way to start with blender is to watch tutorials on youtube i think.. I found this channel very useful http://www.youtube.com/user/super3boy Also if you are thinking of blender you must watch this blender made movie first
  13. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14538 My first own designed thing i made with my Ultimaker :-) To be able to have an eye on it while doing other things, or to have an easy way to record it printing..
  14. I got my ultimaker yesterday (2011-12-06) and i am now putting it together, its very simple following the rev3 instructions. I noticed for the extruder i got has a piece of wood with 2 premounted push-in fittings. And i assume this piece just replaces the 8B piece from the sheet of wood ?
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