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mattinv

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  1. When you get some time, check it again. I guess it takes some time to load because I posted a few pictures on each post. I'm also working on a granule extruder to mount on it, you might me interested in this section too.
  2. I posted the principles of the new extruder on the blog, along with some explanations (http://3dlargeprinter.blogspot.com/). Let me know if you have any suggestions.
  3. Hi everybody, I have been working trying to find a solution to the filament possibly getting stuck in the bowden tube, and the cost of the print when I will have to use 1.5-2.5 kg of filament. To solve the first issue, I could simply put the extruder on the gantry, like most Reprap. I opted for the Ultimaker design originally because I wanted to keep a light head, insuring accuracy and high speed. Since the gantry, in its current form, is very rigid and can handle quite a bit of weight, I started to explore this possibility. I also looked at cost of filament, and extruding your own is the only solution for cheap material... The problem seems to be that, if tolerances are not respected, the injection nozzle ends up clogging up, and the extruder often fails to grab the filament. So to solve both issues , the only solution is to mount the plastic extrusion mechanism and make it into a printing head. I looked at a few designs and articles. http://reprap.org/wiki/Granule_Extruder_Team http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,70213 http://reprap.org/wiki/GranuleExtruder http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,93966,94775 http://reprap.org/wiki/Web4Deb_extruder http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?171,40341,40341 To see the various design, check out the blog: http://3dlargeprinter.blogspot.com I'm open to any feedback you might have. I'll try to start prototyping of the extruder in about 2 weeks.
  4. Hi Owen, Check again and let me know if it worked this time. http://3dlargeprinter.blogspot.com/ I uploaded quite a few images and I will keep adding articles about the designs. Like I said on google groups, I'd love to get some feedback and suggestions on possible modifications. There is so much to be said about each part of the assembly, and always room for improvement!
  5. Hi Everybody, I finally posted all the modification and a first final version of the Ultimaker ++ on this blog: http://3dlargeprinter.blogspot.com/ I encourage everybody to check it out and criticize. As soon as I get my Ultimaker, I will start ordering and printing some parts for it, and put it together. But first, I want to make sure I iron out as many problems as possible. So I would really appreciate any criticism and suggestions.
  6. I will start a blog on the Ultimaker++. But I want to present 3 options, similar and different in many ways. I will show some of the results for the deflection on each beams of the machine. I mostly finished the BOM for option #2. Price came at just over $4300 for the build. So I want to try to offer a version under $4K for people to consider. Closer to $3500 would be best. Option #2 is the "rolls-royce" of all 3 versions, so I think it is not too bad. Option #3 will be the cheapest. I'm looking at the big items and trying to reduce them to a minimum. Here is what I'm working on now. I'm converting the inch frame to metric. This should allow for the build to be made anywhere worldwide, plus people can now use some cheap aluminum extrusion from overseas. In the CAD model I have presented so far, I used the series "15" of 80/20. It is expensive, the fastener are not cheap. And it is limited in compatible suppliers. The new revision will be build using series "40" of 80/20, very similar to the series 15 in size. Next step is the conversion from rail bearing to shaft + ball bushing. The question remain as to the conversion to ball bushing on the X axis. It only saves $105 assuming we purchase the cheap blocks from ebay... So I might keep the original design on this axis at first. 250mm/s is the maximum speed. It will probably take a few cm to reach it. As for acceleration, I will see if I can find some easy way to calculate them. If anybody has an advice, or a (free) software that would do it, please share.
  7. Hi Daid, I'm not too worry about the belt on the Y axis because the weight it is moving on the miniature block bearing (Hiwin MGN 9) is very light: 185g (including the bearing, pulley, etc...). To be precise, it is less than the weight moved along X or Y on the ultimaker, since the weight of some of the bearings and axles is removed. So the backlash will be minor, and since the belt is tensioned, probably less than what you would have on the UM. Most of the weight is on the X axis, about 2500g (which contains the Y axis), or 4X the weight on the X axis of a UM. This is why it was decided to switch to a ball screw on this one. By keeping Y extremely fast, if I print mostly on Y and move more slowly along X (which can still go up to 250mm/s, although it could be more but I'll have to try different stepper motors), I should be able to have very precise and fast prints. I think I'm going to start a blog where I'll post all the details on each part of the machine and the calculations that went along on deflection, stepper motor selection, etc... Right now, I'm working on the BOM and I will post everything online later today.
  8. As promise, the second version if we want to avoid too much backlash in the belt for the X axis (the load on Y is extremely light). Options #2: X -> ball screws (limit of 250 mm/s @ 50 PPS / 3000 RPM), Y -> belt driven, Z ball screws. This is a little bit more expensive but the envelope for the exact same volume goes to: 800mm (X) x 930 mm (Y) x 800 mm (Z) I made sure there will be no slippage on X axis pulley: And I'm still working on the belt tensioner. Advantages: - very accurate on all axis. - Will need an upgrade of the stepper driver for the X axis. Inconvenient: - limited to 250mm/s on X axis* - more expensive (2 extra ball screws, bigger stepper motor for X axis) * I would think We could compensate for that by printing along Y mostly (not sure if the software part can do that...).
  9. Another stepper motor that would work (up to 50 rps): http://amci.com/stepper-motor-control/stepper-motors-size-34.asp
  10. Well, here is the dilemma. I kind of forgot about it, but: 1.8 deg -> 200 step; at 5mm per rotation, the accuracy with a gear ratio of 1:1 is 0.025mm / step. I'm looking at the Gecko G210X ( http://www.geckodrive.com/g210x-p-51.html ) to see if they might help. These might be able to compensate. What do you guys think? Here are a few other options: M-3424-6.3[X] http://imshome.com/products/nema34.html
  11. Since you mentioned the electronic, here is what I found. I looked at the wiring diagram of the UIM24008 Minuature Microstepping driver ( http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/pdf/UIM ... %20_2_.pdf ). These seems perfect for an upgrade of the stepper driver. Up to 8A for good torque and/or speed. I will put acrylic side windows. This is just a first sketch, I still need to work the mechanical side of it. Now, my only concern is the backlash. It was mentioned on the Google thread ( http://groups.google.com/group/ultimake ... 8d55c48ebd ) that it might be an issue with the long belt. The only solution is to switch to a ball screw for the X axis, which slows down the gantry. My problem is finding a stepper motor, ANY, that will have some torque at 50 rps. If somebody has an option to recommend, I'd like to hear it. So far, the only one I found is the WO-5718X-15E ( http://www.linengineeringstore.com/prod ... px?proID=3 ), that can operate at 50 rps and has a torque of 14.16 oz.in at that speed (@ 20,000 pps). Is there a pulsation limitation with the Ultimaker micro controller? Anybody has a better option? I need to control 2 x 950mm ball screws... Should I use 2 stepper motors and run them from a single stepper driver?
  12. **UPDATE: follow this project on my blog: http://3dlargeprinter.blogspot.com/ ** Good morning everybody, I'm working on a large Ultimaker, which I will call the Ultimaker++ for now. The build envelope is approximately 800(X) x 800 (Y) x730mm (Z). Z can easily be increased, but for budget purposes (linear bearings, ball screws, beams, etc...), I was limited to 730mm. The objectives of this build is as follow: - Very high printing speed: the X,Y,Z gantry is built using open end and closed belts (I'm working on a self tension mechanism for X & Y, Z can be adjusted by moving the plate that holds the steeper motor). The design is such that accuracy is improved, with no loss of speed. The gantry weight has been reduced to its minimum. - High accuracy: Extremely rigid frame; Linear bearings on all 4 axis. "double belt / pulley" system for X / Y. - Adjustable, spring loaded table (25 points). I'm still working on being able to integrate a heated bed... - 95% of the parts "out of the shelves" or printed parts. - All custom parts are made of 0.25" (6.35mm) thick aluminum plates (but other materials could be used). All can be laser cut / water jet / CNC. - Re use as many as possible of the original parts of the Ultimaker. - Extruder by Geo Hagen - Thank you again for the files ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897 ) - Fits on a standard 48"x40" pallet for shipping. I'm finalizing the design and I will post the files on Thingiverse.com as soon as it is complete. I'm looking for people to print some of the custom parts for me, since I do not have my Ultimaker yet. I have two options: Option #1: X & Y -> belt driven, Z -> ball screw Advantages: - Only 2 ball screws, X axis is much faster - Will work with UM electronic Inconvenient: - possible backlash due to long belts on X due to the weight (2500g) of the gantry -> loss of accuracy. Options #2: X -> ball screws (limit of 250 mm/s @ 50 PPS / 3000 RPM), Y -> belt driven, Z ball screws. This is a little bit more expensive but the envelope for the exact same volume goes to: 800mm (X) x 930 mm (Y) x 800 mm (Z) Advantages: - very accurate on all axis. - bigger build envelope - fast Inconvenient: - limited to 250mm/s on X axis* - more expensive (2 extra ball screws, bigger stepper motor for X axis) * I would think We could compensate for that by printing along Y mostly (not sure if the software part can do that...). I'm currently polishing the design and starting the BOM. I'm not sure what the cost is yet, but I'll post a detailed list including all standard (shelf) parts. You can also follow the conversion on the google group: http://groups.google.com/group/ultimaker/browse_thread/thread/8556925cbc0db0cc
  13. Hi Bruce, I was wondering if you were done assembling the machine and if you had a chance to run a few prints. I'm very curious about the results you got. I want to know if keeping the same size rods on X/Y worked for you, and what you have used for Z. And of course, I'm sure we all would love to see some pictures of the finished product! Thanks, Matt
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