benoit
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Posts posted by benoit
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* Not sure if this goes in Netfabb or trouble shooting section
Hi all,
I'm having a problem with support structures (Fluff, Weak Fluff and Strong Fluff), they all seem to fail to print.
Have a look at the photo, this is in Fluff mode.
The first layer sticks nicely, but everything else turns out badly.
Would it perhaps be too hot?
Please advise.
thanks
benoit.
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Hi rewolff,
I had the same problem when I first started out with the Ultimaker (see attached image). Turns out, I wasn't waiting long enough for the part to cool down before pulling it off the stage, as such the edges were being pushed in as I forcibly rocked the part out of the tray.
benoit.
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Is your Ultimaker USB port plugged into a computer when you switch it off?
I say this because mine is partially powered up through the USB port regardless of the power switch status.
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Here is an example of a hair dryer removed part.
Note: I use Orafol Oratape (cut to 8in wide) as my stage liner.
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My reasoning is that it's the same principle as a heat bed: makes the acrylic warm. When the heating/cooling takes place it loosens the bond between the PLA, tape and the acrylic.
(Based on the two hair dryers i've owned) most hair dryer come with "line" nozzle attachement, mine is about 1.5cm wide which fits nicely in the back (where the small "ultimaker" is written).
Note for those planning to print a nozzle adapter: the tip of hair dryer gets really hot, it will melt PLA.
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I use a hair dryer.
I blow under the stage for 10 seconds then the part come right off without damaging the tape.
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Update: problem solved, all Netfabb built-in profiles work flawlessly.
My problems:
1. Using MacOS Netfabb 4.9, I switched to Windows using Netfabb 4.9.2 (volumetric).
2. Using USB to drive the print (the animations and information updates caused the hot end to pause and ooze for seconds at a time while it sent the data to the computer), I switched to SD cards from the Ultipanel
3. Operating the Ultimaker in a non air-conditioned room (here room temperature is 27-32 C), I placed it in the direct path of the air-con outlet which makes the PLA filament harder and less prone to deform in the feeder mechanism during during Fine/Snake areas where the rate is low; it also makes the print cool down faster so there previously printed material cannot be displaced.
Here is a sample of the "standard quality" profile (with hatching instead of spiral filling)
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Netfabb is great for estimating the volume of a part, as a solid. However the more important value I would be keen on knowing is the toolpath calculated "material usage", which always seem to be < 1 gram.
I couldn't figure out where to input material density to obtain real estimates.
Anyone knows?
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Yes it is calibrated, but i'm using 4.9.0 (on MacOS)
I played with the "Width Factor" parameter on the "Build Style->Region Definition" section and was able to fix most of the problems, and I'm now pretty satisfied with the "standard quality" setting.
I still need to work on improving the upskin finish but so far so good.
Here are some photos.
Thanks for the help!
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Troy,
Thanks for the advise.
Yes the Netfabb standrard quality is much lower than what RepG outputs, however the toolpath algorithm makes it much nicer and easier to post process.
Once i'm comfortable and confident with Netfabb, I'll move up to Fine and Ultra (i'd like to have a good comparison between them all)
Have you (or anyone) been able to thin down the layer thickness from 80 microns to 20 microns (like in RepG's Very Fine setting offers) ?
benoit
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I'm using 1a : Standard Quality Filled Object with corresponding 1: PLA Standard material and a 2.5 mm Fill Spacing.
However the problem is in the upskin and downskin layers of the print, before the Fill Spacing setting kicks in.
I was able to fix the problem by switching to the hatching pattern fill pattern (from a spiral pattern), which effectively reduces the number of passthrough on a single point and consequently reduces the build ups and prevents the formation of "mounds" at the corners.
I can finally print with Netfabb!
Thanks guys.
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Here is another example on a larger surface.
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Hi All,
I can't seem to be able to get decent filling with Netfabb, it seems to consistently overfill top and bottom layers.
If I wait it out, the nozzle smooths the "junk" after a few layers, but there must be a way to prevent this from happening.
Please advise.
Thanks
Note: print quality with RepG is flawless.
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cyclone... M92 E14 works!
Thanks for the help.
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Hi All,
I've just purchased Netfabb and I fear it's already causing me to regret it.
Printing from RepG and from the UltiController both work flawlessly, but once I switched to Netfabb... I get this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PGxIyiwf84
I'm really not sure what to do at this point.
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Alright, turns out combing is an option found in Netfabb for ultimaker (but not in the RepG).
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Hey futurejames, sounds like you're on the right track... now anyone know how to parametrizing this?
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The built in Slic3r profiles are made to create a hot first layer and (sometimes) cooler subsequent layers.
* I figured it was a way to ensure proper adhesion with the tape.
In RepG: GCode -> Edit Slicing Profiles -> (select a profile and press edit)
If the set temperature is too low for a given PLA/ABS you can duplicate a profile and make it more specific to your needs.
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Hi everyone,
I can't seem to figure out how to prevent the formation of "hair" left behind while the nozzle travels between two non-printing points.
It seems there is too much pressure pushing the PLA out, even when the motor is not pushing it comes out.
I've tried lowering the temperature until it stops, but then the PLA doesn't smear or set on the print (making it come out like uncooked rice vermicelli).
Is there any way to overcome this problem?
It's a real pain to have all the holes and small details jammed up with extra junk, effectively making the prints useless.
FYI: PLA is from Ultimaker and the printer runs in a 25C temperature controlled room and the nozzle is preheated for 10 minutes before each first print.
Please advise.
Thanks
benoit.
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Just a comparison shot between my Ultimaker (FINE) and my Dimension 1200 es... Granted the Dimension has a lot of advantages, but in terms of surface quality and for 10x cheaper the Ultimaker fares pretty well.
FYI: This is my first print with the Ultimaker, since then my quality has improved significantly.
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Problem solved, it was bad STL file.
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Hi,
I have a problem where a layer is duplicated over and over again (like a skipping record): 1,2,3,4,5,5,5,5,5,5... see attached photo.
I've tried different gcode generation settings and printing it from both USB and from the UltiController
I'm really not sure how to overcome this problem, all other parts i've printed so far worked out perfectly (i'm on my second day).
Please advise.
Bowden tube too tight for supplied PLA.
in Coffee corner
Posted
Hi all,
I've been struggling for weeks with my Bowden, so I finally went and got new PFA tubing OD 1/4" ID 5/32 for my Ultimakers... it effectively fixed all my problems (over/under extruding, circle roundness, grinding...) ! The larger ID also means I can now use any 3mm PLA/ABS from PRC without any jamming or having the Bowden cable pop (although i use Owen's little gadget to keep it in place, thanks btw).
Also, to get the creaking noise to stop and to give it a bit more slack in the front-left (0,0,0) corner, I cut it to 75 cm (instead of the stock 67 cm) which seems to have made things a lot better as well (smoother bends and less friction)
I paid S$ 175 for 50 FT (around 145 USD or 110 euros). I have about 40 FT left and since i'll never get around to using the rest, I can sell portions of it (at cost + shipping) to anyone who wants some.
Just let me know, you can email me bowden (AT) rnd.sg
FYI, I'm in Singapore.