jeremie
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Posts posted by jeremie
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Oh, that's true
It's still OK for my heated bed (PLA only and low temp), but I definitely should have read the specs twice.
Not worth it, ignore my request
Thanks
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Could Marlin and marlin autobuild support the cheap one-wire digital dallas DS1820 (or DS18B20) temperature sensor?
I used one on my heated bed controlled by a separate arduino pro mini because it is plain straightforward (no conversion nor lookup tables needed). Now that I know it's OK I would gladly control it from within a "regular" Marlin instead.
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Don't they now have millions of VC $ to get this sorted out quickly without losing many of the designers?... Yep, plenty of money to pay for lawyers... unless these are the very same lawyers that came with the brilliant article 3.2 in their ToS, and probably at the time they already knew that the next move would be to drop the open source approach (VC putting big bucks in a company do want some safeguards obviously, this is normal from their point of view) :evil:
Sorry, but in between I still will wait or look for another place to claim my intellectual property. Bah.
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Well, my issue is more about accumulation of stress *before* the hobbed bolt. Then, the stress suddenly releases in the feeder and filament sometimes gets so much damaged that the bolt starts to grind into it without making it advance anymore.
I like the grooved bearings idea, though I would have to find/buy some and it is still a bit cumbersome.
And yes, putting the spool farther really improves things but in my case I had to move it at least 2 meters away which is not convenient, I want it on its support
In fact my best results so far are with a new filament feeder of my own, and a new kind of homemade grooved bolt (hardest part to make of course). I still should print many more hours before I tell (where would I tell btw? thingiverse is less friendly suddenly imho...). But it is already stronger and more robust than the stock one, esp. regarding PLA dust that otherwise accumulates in the bolt thread, which results on an obvious lower grip and failed prints in the end. Mine really was made to reduce friction and it seems to do a good job.
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I have one spool of filament which is kind of twisted on itself... Stress accumulates till the filament suddently rotates in the feeder, and it creates a lot of grinding sometimes. I only managed to reduce the issue by putting my spool about 1.5 meters away, but this is no definitive solution of course (and there is the added danger that it bends in a sharp angle)...
Some people seem to hang their spool in a bag attached to the ceiling (not an option for me), which in turn can rotate in the horizontal plane. I would get the same result by placing the spool holder on a platform that can rotate (check "lazy susan"). But it means so much space "wasted" around the printer! :s
Has anyone tried to pre-heat the filament very gently to release all kind of internal stress *before* it enters the feeder?
Of course it should be allowed to cool down enough before it enters the feeder, or it would get torn/flattened by the bolt/idler.
With higher temperature, I would love to reshape my filament into a nice circular constant diameter, but... well... this is called an extruder and it requires a feeder in the first place, a recursive issue! :lol:
my two cents
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I see your point, but I think we could detect grinding at the very beginning, ie. before it really damages the filament.
More important to me is that it could detect the failure so as to pause asap. This is the only chance we have to fix the issue manually and not just ruin the whole print. We all had one day some bad failure because of stalled feeding, don't we?
For a well-tuned setup (=that never stalls), I agree that the issue is more about non-constant filament diameter. Relying on the motor speed only is somehow less reliable than reading the actual filament speed and even more, filament flow rate. Filament diameter, especially indirectly is a partial answer imo, but this is another story
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Yes, I have no more mechanical mouses (I just kept the ball of my Atari mouse as a souvenir)
The optical mouse sensor usually already outputs serial data, which is fine for the arduino.
And sure, I know I should better tune my printer (really!)... but:
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[*:1pza7fca]the filament diameter may change significantly on a same roll
[*:1pza7fca]killing a print because of a filament stall after 2 hours sucks anyway
[*:1pza7fca]it gives room to improve filament calibration...
The latter also is interesting to me: I think feedback could be sent to the firmware to achieve auto (adaptative) filament speed: just increase filament speed until the filaments stalls (boolean). Better, we may be able to detect that the filament speed no more matches what is expected (difference between stalling vs. slipping/grinding...).
Now, filament feed ratio adaptation could be done at runtime: eg. the firmware detects a contiguous extrusion of 2 cm to come: it then accelerates until the nut starts to grind the filament, which it can detect, and use this "max speed" to compute and correct the extrusion rate. Hence, the design would cope with any filament diameter during runtime
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That's a slightly different but also very interesting idea (maybe you could combine both, an toptical sensor on the other side of the mouse sensor, if you see the light from the mouse, then the filament is gone. (unless you have transparent filament)
Well, the optical mouse sensor would detect the absence of movement, and it may be because of the end of the filament or b/c of a stalled filament. Nonetheless, the resulting action still would be the same: pause as soon as possible!
As for the Z axesAlso if you manage to use belts for the Z movement, you could add a nice feature to your printer: think about it like an expandable rigid skeleton, with belts sized to the maximum height you expect to achieve. Then, using a hoist indeed would let you "eat" efficiently any such extra belt size, according to how tall the TITAN is set up. Ie; instead of O belt loops you would have multiple forth-back with idlers to keep the belt under tension may be...
Hence, the printer could collapse to a tinier Z footprint, eg. for storage but also for the default printing configuration since most 3D objects are Z-short... The printer could still be made taller by adding more rigid Z elements (or longer rods? - not convenient), and without having to change the belts. This would really be awesome
The main drawback could be the volume of the hoists and probably increased complexity...my two cents (or how to clobber a simple design)
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I'm also thinking about an "out of filament" sensor. Which pauses your print if you are almost running out of filament.
This is also something I had on my mind for months, so I just opened another topic for this: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1147
The TITAN looks excellent! I want something I can bring in my bike topcase...
While a foldable printer such as the foldarap seems quite nice, I'd go with a smaller and (probably) more robust one such as yours. I agree that most of my prints really fall within the box also.
Also, I think it could be easily made expandable vertically by using rods in place of plywood for example (or some kind of lego stacking?), even though this is not the best direction to increase the print size...
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I am thinking about sticking a mouse-salvaged optical sensor to the transparent bowden tube... It would raise an alarm whenever the filament stalls. It would cover the "no more filament" and the "nut grinding filament" issues at once. I have checked that a dumb low cost optical mouse already "reads" through the tube.
What I really want is to insert a predefined live GCODE paragraph in the stream, so as to move the head away from the object and pause the print and not ruin hours of printing while something could be done... The firmware would be upgraded to wait for a "live" user-triggered button to resume the print. By the way, this "resume" button would also prove useful to me to pause a print at any time.
Some people may have tried it, but I found nothing yet. What's your point of view?
Nb: the sensor could optionally double-check against the drive gear to avoid false alarms, but the basic mode would anyway warn the user of the end of the print.
Close the nozzle to get rid of oozing?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Nobody ever came with a way to block oozing physically, eg by drilling a lateral hole in the nozzle for a pin/needle that would nicely close the output? Or may be a sliding plate, whatever could avoid leaks
I would love to have a physical stop at or near the hot end, then "just" feed it with constant filament pressure and avoid all these problems with grinding, retractation and so...
Sure, it certainly sounds easier to ask than it is to make. But if I had a lathe I still would try it