cstcyr
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Posts posted by cstcyr
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Should I buy these over the TMC2100's? Can I follow the exact same setup instructions as from your other thread?
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Hey amedee,
Thanks so much for your awesome builder! I'm kind of interested in how it works. Do you think you might ever check in the builder itself to a repo on github?
Just got my LCD controller and will install it today. Also grabbing SilentStepStick drivers soon. Really happy both of those are integrated into the builder!
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Thanks for the responses guys!
Over the holiday break I've worked on the machine some and done more research for future upgrades. Below is kind of a log of my plans for myself as much as anything. Would like feedback on the considered upgrades though.
This week: Installed DIY Heated Bed (jason_hk kit), Installed FW to Support the HB from bultimaker.bulles.eu, Started using Cura 2.3.x, Printed some Bechy's, Ordered Smart Graphic LCD Controller
Maintenance needed (waiting for lube):, Tighten All Screws, Clean and Lube XY rods with sewing machine oil, Grease Z Axis with Magnalube or Super Lube, Check small belt tightness, Cold/atomic pull to clean nozzle
Planned Upgrades: Order and Install SilentStepStick Drivers, Replace HB Power Supply or Move to 450W Power supply for both machine and HB, Install all PWS and HB Parts into bottom of machine
Considering the following upgrades: New XY Blocks (any favorites? Reptar XY? ), GT2 Upgrade (still looking at this one, scared to disassemble and reassemble), Solid state relay or DIY mosfet relay for HB, Direct Drive?, E3D Hotend?
Also a note on something that messed me up. This was the first time I've installed custom fw and at first I used marlinbuilder which is pulled from Marlin:RC. I kept getting failed prints when they stopped because of "thermal runaway" errors. I then looked at the code between Marlin:RC and what the Bulletimaker build bot uses and that protection was not there at all. Took me three days to figure out why my prints were stopping halfway through. One thing that could have contributed is when the HB turns on the extruder temp sensor lowers by 5-10 degrees and then snaps back when the HB is turned off. Maybe I have some interference going on.
Also here are my bechy's: https://goo.gl/photos/Zi8Lr3zyf8os9HKs9
Anyway happy new year everyone!
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Hi All,
Looking for some advice on upgrades and modifications I should make to my UM Orig to get it in shape. I have a extruder upgrade installed and I also have an ebay heated bed that I have not installed yet. I have not touched it in maybe two years and would like to get it back in service.
Any resources on what mods are recommended? Also any cleaning, tuning, replacement advice for a printer that has been sitting unused would be appreciated.
Thanks for any help/links.
Christian
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The printer is a couple years old self sourced in a group with some slight mods I think just thicker z rods.
Is there a recommended replacement xy block?
I was looking at this one:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/reptar-xy-version-two
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Some more trouble shooting I've done.
I have timed the large extruder wheel when using Cura over USB and OctoPrint. Both seem to be running at the same speed.
I am still consistently getting less extrusion when using octoprint. I had the thought today that it might be temperature. I have a cheap IR thermometer but it is maxing out so I can't compare the two empirically.
There is an offset for temp in octoprint but I'm not sure if that will actually make the temp higher or lower.
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This is on an Ultimaker Original?
Yes it is. Sorry for not stating that.
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I had a hard time searching for this problem so I figured I would ask.
The linear bearing in my rear slider block is falling out. This is on an Ultimaker Original. What can I do about it?
I've tried adding blue tape in between the bearing and the block but it will not slide in at all.
I had the same problem with a bearing in my extruder head and added small zip ties on the bearing since it is longer than the head.
Has someone made a modification to the slider block to hold the bearing better?
Should I clean and lubricate the rods?
Thanks for any help.
Christian
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I don't know if you did this but in order to use Octoprint you have to set the gcode flavor to reprap instead of UltiGCode (i don't know if you guys use reprap gcode on UM1s)
Yeah it looks like it's already set for RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter).
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AFAIK, Octoprint does not display (or know) the filament diameter. I guess where it says "Filament: 1.93m", it is telling you it will use 1.93 meter of filament.
The number you can fill in on the Control tab is only for manual extrusion (and it is not a speed, but a length).
Octoprint basically copies the gcode file directly to the printer, without altering it. If it prints directly from Cura (over USB), it should also print with Octoprint (over USB).
Yes now that I look at it you are right. That is the length of filament to be used.
I've printed both files with cura over usb with no problems. Wonder why I'm having trouble with octoprint with both files.
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So I setup octoprint today and connected it to my Ultimaker Orig. and I am having trouble with the filament diameter that octoprint is seeing and extrusion seems to be too slow. I made gcode files for a fast an a normal print of a model using Cura and uploaded them to octoprint.
Octoprint is showing the filament to be 1.93mm. I can't seem to find a setting for diameter and I think that makes sense since that would be set at the slicer.
There is a setting for Movement Speed Extruder but I think that is just for the control dialog.
Thanks for any help.
New SSS Driver (TMC2130)
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Still interested in adding these to my Ultimaker Original. I've had the drivers for a year+. What do you mean by protector boards? Just physical protection or some kind of circuit.