jhertzberg
-
Posts
169 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by jhertzberg
-
-
I just installed the official HBK and I have a Marlin quandary. I have corner mount direct drive, and I swapped the X axis from Ginge's Marlin Builder rather than switching motor pins. I also have a second extruder I am developing for cold paste. The Cura machine configuration wizard doesn't have an option to deal with my direct drive or my second sensor-less extruder, and for Ginge's Marlin Builder I'd need to know which heated bed temperature sensor to pick. Does anyone know what heated bed temperature sensor pick is baked into Cura?
-
I wonder what the difference in precision (in terms of post-mod print quality) is between doing that and getting longer rods.
I did that, and the quality is very good. You just have to make sure that the bearing adapters are solid, well centered, and tight to the case. It's ~15mm less rod to flex than with the longer rods. The biggest problem is with the tight fit getting everything square and the grub screws tight. That's why I made the shorte version for the front-right x.
-
For gt2 xy blocks, I highly recommend the Reptar V2 XY blocks on youmagine.
Another really good mod is switching to direct drive. Lots of options for that. I personally recommend the corner motor mount on (youmagine) and getting the longer rods from Misumi (some other places might also sell good rods, but the ones from McMaster are not up to the claimed specs)
If you want to switch to direct drive, but don't want to get longer rods, you can make do with the existing rods by using these:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/short-bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive
-
Fortunately for Ultimaker, the go-to, USA Utlimaker guru is based in........
.
.
.
.
wait for it....
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
MEMPHIS! :mrgreen:
Simon, take a bow.
-
taulman t-glase PETT filament has a glass transition of 76C. Do you think that would hold up without a layer of alu foil?
-
(I start to have a couple of UMO firmware tweaks, so I am thinking of an online UMO firmware generator :rolleyes: )
For the online generator, did you have something in mind significantly different from Ginge's Marlin Builder? If not, you could just pull the source and add graphic controller support, instead of starting from scratch.
-
If you'd migrate your designs from Thingiverse to YouMagine that would be great. I always look for designs and ideas at YouMagine, and feel a little dirty if I have to look on Thingiverse.
You yourself already posted about a tool that can help you migrate when you posted about ShapeDo last June. They put their migration tool in GitHub: https://github.com/shapedo/thingiverse-backup
-
From other popular mount models such as
https://youmagine.com/designs/e3d-integrated-printhead-v1-9
the distance is 18mm.
Thanks and Doh! I should'a looked for one piece head designs instead of the originals.
-
Does anyone know the vertical distance (center to center) between the 6mm x/y rods on the Ultimaker Original? I'm trying to design a new print head, and the PDF files in GitHub don't explicitly have that level of detail. My measurement with the printer assembled is 18mm, but I don't want to print the head, pull everything apart, then find that I was off by 1-2mm.
-
I was thinking of steel bar at the rear of the platform, against that back wall between the smooth rods. You could tune the weight to just enough to give you a slight lean. Too much lean means more wear on the bearings and shafts.
-
The optimal spot would be to place the leadscrew in the center of gravity of the z-stage. That's of course not possible, but at least I moved the leadscrew a bit closer - it's only about 20 mm, but it's better than nothing.
I know that the z-stage is pretty heavy already, but could you put some weights between the leadscrew and the back to make the leadscrew the center of mass? With the z motor on top and the bearing at the bottom you can get away with more than one can with the standard configuration.
-
Hi Jeff,
can you send me your ordernumber so I can look into it?
The heated bed are currently not in stock but should be restocked again soon.
Let me know and i will try to give you an ETA!
Our apologies for the inconvenience,
Thank you. I sent you the info in a PM.
-
That sounds good to me as well, but I am biased. It's been four weeks since I ordered and paid, four days since I filed a sales support ticket, and not one word, not even to say that they are looking into it. If there is no word by Monday, I'll cancel the order and dispute the CC charge (it is due), and just get it from MakerShed. That would be a pity, because CC companies ding vendors for disputed charges.
-
My main point is that customer support is really slow.
I know, sorry for the rant. I'm sitting here with new filaments that I can't try without it.
-
I don't know about now, but during my experience with getting my original UMO frame replaced, due to it being warped, was told all Ultimaker frames were made on a single laser cutter (presumably in the Netherlands). That was a year ago.
BTW, took ages to get the frame replaced. Great product, and maybe it is just the time difference, but it seems to take forever to get hardware support issues taken care of.
If I had to do it over again, I might have just gone with the Type A Series 1 instead of UMO. I think the UMO is probably a better printer in a number of ways, but Type A headquarters is within driving distance.
This isn't even a production issue, it's a shipping issue. My account has shown "Order:Complete, Payment:Paid, Shipment:Ready" for days now, perhaps longer. Since when is it acceptable to charge a customer's credit card, then sit on the order? The charge was posted to my Visa card on Nov. 15th. Also, it has been more than 48 hours since I emailed customer support, and I have not received a reply. The support ticket shows "Unassigned" as the Owner. I'm considering disputing the charge, then just buying the HBK from MakerShed.
-
Some/many UM2's are built in USA and shipped from USA but I don't think the HBK is.
I asked Simon at fbrc8 before ordering, and he did not have them, so I figured that everything was being assembled at UM HQ. I saw that MakerShed was selling them, but I had no idea if they actually had stock, and their price before shipping was almost the same as from UM after shipping. The UM site and the invoice say that parts ship within 5 days. :mad:
-
Yeah, I figured as much. I ordered from UM directly just to save ~$15 and now I regret it. They sure enough charged my CC right away. :-|
-
I remember that bed kit. I was tempted to get one, but didn't like the way the leads were attached to the plate. Kind of a mute point now, cause it doesn't seem like he sells them anymore.
Ordered from MakerShed. The price is pretty tough to swallow, but just closed my eyes and did it. The upgraded z stage and leveling system will be nice.
Please post the amount of time it takes to receive the kit from MakerShed, and your shipping distance. I ordered mine directly from UM on Nov 14. It shows in the tracking system as complete, paid and ready to ship, but it has shown that for a few days. I opened a ticket to ask for the expected delivery date to Brooklyn.
-
That nozzle temp better be 220C, not F. :???:
Have you tried running filament through with the bowden disconnected from the hot end? If not, do this to reduce some of the variables. Put some resistance on the filament with your fingers. See how much it takes to create grinding. Then try pushing some filament manually through the hot end and see what resistance is there. See if you can get a good line that way, or if there is evidence of a clog.
-
In that case, you only need outer collars. Make sure that they don't rub the case or the outer ring of the bearing.
-
Are you making your Ultimaker Original from the Ultimaker kit? If so, the included smooth rods are not long enough to add outer collars. You would have to purchase some longer rods. Once you get to that sort of commitment, you might as well do the direct drive mod as well. In any case, you could also just fix the rods to the inner ring of the bearings with a spot of solder or glue and make a domed end cap that does not touch the rods but keeps out the dust.
-
This is interesting, but clearance and adjustment could prove to be a problem. You might instead try making an end cap with less friction such as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075 or http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23835.
-
Since the point of blowing air onto the print is to spot cool what has just been extruded, then isn't another factor the temperature of the air that is being delivered? If so, then compressed air that is at room temperature while under pressure will deliver a lot of chill for little flow. Perhaps an airbrush pump paired with a tank connected to something like Chopmeister's rig would do it.
Edit: this looked interesting. I have no idea the cost.
https://www.vortec.com/Asset/Cold_Air_Gun.pdf
-
I can't find it now, but I saw a YouTube video of that several months ago. Heres a discussion on the reprap forums of something similar, I think: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?14,328288
Building Marlin for UMO with direct drive, 2nd extruder and official HBK?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Thank you, but damn, if I am reading the HTML source right, it looks like Ginge's builder UI does not have an option to set TEMP_SENSOR_BED to 20, assuming that the option values are directly used to populate the TEMP_SENSOR_BED #define before building, and not part of a look-up. The drop-down options are:
<option value="0">NO heated bed</option>
<option value="1">100k thermistor - Usually this one!(4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="-1">thermocouple with AD595</option>
<option value="-2">thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)</option>
<option value="2">200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="3">mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="4">10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!</option>
<option value="5">100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="6">100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup </option>
<option value="7">100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="8">100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="9">100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="10">100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)</option>
<option value="60">100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermister</option>
<option value="51">100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)</option>
<option value="52">200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)</option>
<option value="55">100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)</option>
Can anyone think of a cheap-n-cheerful way around this?