jhertzberg
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Posts posted by jhertzberg
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You should also check if your Y limit switch is damaged.
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I do not know the brand (or even how much current it draws at full speed), I bought it off a Danish shop that deals in car audio systems... Apparently if you are a really cool guy, you have amplifiers in your car, so big that they require a fan like this to keep cool :/
Anyways, I run my printer at 24V off a RUMBA board (fan is still 12V though)
I keep running into those car system fans as well, but I can't find any with impellers ~200mm that pull suitable mA.
I guess there is no reprieve from the 1.5.7 board fan power constraints unless I add external power, or bite the bullet and replace the stock board (I have been eyeing the Smoothieboard 5x for another build).
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After lurking for a long time I just installed a 200 mm. cross flow fan in my UMO and finished my first PLA print.
I dont even have the sides closed off yet, but am already in love with the setup... super slick and works a treat...
Which fan did you use, tommyph1208, and what modifications to the UMO electronics did you do, if any? I was getting ready to get a QG030-198/12 for my UMO, but the exchange between jonnybischof and neotko has me wondering if I'm out of my depth on the electronics. The QG030-198/12 could draw ~670mA with the fan at 255. The fan that came with my UMO looks to be rated at 100mA. I see how everyone is suggesting running at no greater than 40-50%, but I'd hate to be one forgotten profile setting away from blowing the main board.
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If you want to make your build area that much bigger, you should take into account that the longer you make your gantry shafts, the more difficulties you'll have to get precise prints. Shafts are never 100% straight, and the longer they are, the worse they "may" get (depends heavily on the quality of the shafts!).
Not wanting to go too off-topic here, but you'll find more discussions about that somewhere in the forum... Also about the direct extruder vs bowden.
Well i want to make them around 500mm that should not be that big of a deal?
And how hard it is to print ninjaflex with a bowden?
stefan787, you may also need to add two more leadscrews to support the bed at the front sides, since additional weight of a larger bed will likely be enough to make the front side droop.
I print semiFlex slowly (15mm/s) through the bowden. It helps to run a tiny bit of sewing machine oil through it first, and to print a bit hot.
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didn't knew that product! Very cool to use it on molds :Othanks @foehnsturm !It's also pretty easy to make a Sugru Substitute. I am worried that the corn starch might make it flammable, but
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It may be unrelated, but why do you have Infill Overlap set to 50% in the expert settings? That can make for some interesting overextrusion artifacts.
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Is your x axis straight and stiff enough for the weight of the two printers? (Is that 80mm linear rail?) You might want to run a Z-probe at various points along the axis. With the flipped over configuration you unfortunately can't do software leveling of the individual heads.
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Here's a rather extensive thread on how to do this on an UM: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/7987-flexible-shaft-the-best-of-both-worlds
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I got a rather broken email notification as well. Two actually, both like this:
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there's no auto-url conversion, so in a long post it becomes really tedious having to scroll back up to get to the formatting buttons... all the while the stupid top tab does come dropping down... how about moving the formatting buttons there, so that at least something useful drops down when scrolling?
Alternatively, could the formatting buttons be moved to the bottom of the edit box?
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Not needed anymore. The updated firmware does not even watch the bottom switch.
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I guess that most of the users used the old forum like me: show last messages since my last visit, then read (jump to the last read) reply and so on.
This is one of the things that could bring old sensations back, it's on the list of features to add. Meanwhile we have have to keep improving it, to make the best experience possible for most of us.
This was the primary way I interacted with the forum as well.
Did anyone create use cases before embarking on the redesign? This should have been a top forum reader Actor use case. If there are no use cases defined yet, it would still be a good idea to do them now, and check them off as the fixes get done. At the very least, all the issues raised should be in your bug tracker.
Regarding white space, it seems that the majority of comments on the topic have been that the space is excessive, yet a few people are happy with the new sparser look. If you implemented your CSS properly, couldn't you just make compact/sparse a user selectable option that is saved in their profile record? I see that you are reading the User Agent, so you should be able to choose a mobile-friendly style sheet automatically.
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I still get notifications for topics where nothing changed ...
The notifications to this "feedback topic" still direct me to a black page...
,,, and I don't get notifications for topics that I followed when the do change. For instance, I selected "follow" on the toolhead changer thread, and I'm not getting those. Furthermore, most of the time when I have tried to select the last page there, I have gotten a blank as if I'm the first to comment. And on this thread, I can't go straight to the new post that I was just being notified about! For a long time, I visited the Mods=and-Hacks forum (at least) daily, and there were great new ideas and collaboration. Now, there's a precipitous drop-off in activity, and I don't see the point of visiting as often.
I spent over thirty years in software development, first coding, then managing large projects. I also managed web roll-outs for companies like Sun Microsystems and JPMorgan. I have been part of successful roll-outs and some not so successful. This one is demonstrably not successful, and the brand is suffering. I'm sorry, but at this point any project that I was ever on would have been rolled back with an apology to the users. I urge you to consider fully restoring the old forum while you continue to develop, debug, and UAT this one.
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I was idly scrolling through the people list to try to get a handle on how these monikers were assigned to users. I noticed the massive number of "Tech Head" users who have account creation dates in 2011 or 2012, but have zero or one posts to the forum. Were their post histories lost, or are they long abandoned accounts that should have been culled? Did the old forum keep track of days since last visit?
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I hate to pile on, but I must:
- Too much white space everywhere! I feel like I have to constantly scroll through topics, then posts to see anything new.
- Persist sessions. There's no reason for the login cookie to expire overnight.
- Don't make me reread. There does not seem to be an intuitive way to jump to unread posts.
- Better topic to topic navigation. Give us back the navigation to the new posts in the next topic.
- WYSIWYG! What is this, 1998??? BBCode instead of HTML is so last century
More, undoubtedly, to follow...
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- Too much white space everywhere! I feel like I have to constantly scroll through topics, then posts to see anything new.
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Both PLA and ABS have a comparable Youngs modulus. The filament will behave as a spring; compressed when printing and elongated when retracted. That change in length is proportional to its initial length. In addition it is forced into a curved shape.
If the feeder is placed in the middle above the build plate the extruder will only travel about 10cm in each direction. There still needs to be some curvature to account for the change of distance between the feeder and the extruder when it travels. But the distance can at least be cut in half.
I have three UM2s; two only operate with ABS and one purely with PLA. Under certain extreme conditions they all can suffer from underextrusion.
I am not a fan of putting the filament behind the printer as intended. This makes material change cumbersome. Instead I place material next to the printer in a low friction spool holder.
Calum Douglas does this already. See http://www.calumdouglas.ch/3d-printing/ultimaker-3d-printer/vertical-down-filament-feed/
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One difficulty I see is keeping all the filament tubes from getting tangled.
Keeping the bowdens untangled is a matter of arranging the feeders and hot ends in the proper order, but as I keep thinking about it, I see that just getting the heads into the dock would require a lot of extra motion, including raising and lowering the revolver. I sort of jumped the gun after thinking that a revolver would have restored print area to this guy's delta solution:
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Including commands to control the head revolver into the gcode may also be problematic, not sure how that would be done.
Well, CNC machines do tool changes with ATC revolvers all the time, but I figure that the simplest way to control a revolver from the gcode in Marlin would be to treat the revolver as the first extruder, and the true extruders as extruder 2, 3, 4, .... Then, you could issue a M302 P1 (allow cold extrudes, necessary since the revolver is "cold"), then a T0 (select the revolver), then rotate the revolver to drop the old head and pick up the new head, then issue a M302 P0 (deny cold extrudes), and a T(?) to activate the newly selected head. This all presupposes replacement electronics that support multiple extruders, but you would need that past dual extrusion anyway.
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Any way this could be done with a tool head revolver? It seems a shame to loose more print area with each added head.
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My blower first started making a racket over a year ago. I now pull the shroud off and oil the fan every few months. As gr5 said, you might only need to give it a drop of machine oil.
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The UMO and 1.5.7 board are reprap style and compatible with most reprap style equipment. You can build Marlin here for the 1.5.7 board:
http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/
As you can see at the website it lets you select many different thermistors or a thermocouple for the bed and for the nozzle. It does *not* let you choose a PT100. Thermocouples and PT100 need extra electronics between the device and the 1.5.7 board. Thermistors don't need anything special (except perhaps solder in a 4.7K resistor).
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A pt100 will work but again you need extra electronics found on the UM2 board only. Or you have to design your own. Plus marlin builder doesn't know the tables for PT100.
If you do need to build Marlin for an Ultimaker with a PT100, try this builder instead: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/
It certainly saved me when I added the official HBK to my UMO with dual extruders and direct drive. It is a bit more limited, but you might not need any more.
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You can try this one: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/
It is definitely not as extensive as Ginge's Marlin Builder, but it is current with 'official' UM firmware, and I think it might work for you want to do...
YES! It has everything I need, even custom settings for the second hot end temp sensor. I just used it, and the printer is now happily printing calibration objects on a hot bed. (I'll mess with the 2nd extruder later.) Thank you!
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Ah well, I'll build it myself. I did so a year or so ago on my old iMac where I had an Arduino development environment set up anyways. I'm on a new PC now that I have not yet brought up to full kit. I guess I'll fire up the iMac and see if it's all still there. Either that, or just switch the motor pins on X like so many do, and use the Cura wizard.
didn't knew that product! Very cool to use it on molds :Othanks 
Idea about Quallity and dualextrusion compined Construction blueprint, design (UMO+).
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I don't know if you read the printhead changer thread. Would it suit your needs?: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer