adenovirux

Hi, there: My extruder doesn't move at all so I exchange its cable and stepper driver with the other motors and it works fine. Therefore, I'm thinking of using the second extruder port as a replacement. I thus add T1 in start.gcode as suggested in this post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3590-individual-use-of-dual-extruders/ but it doesn't work. Anything I miss? adenovirux

I just change a set of new heating block, peak, insulator, nozzle, thermocouple. And the print becomes a mess. First, I saw white smoke (I used transparent filament) , which indicates the PLA is evaporating. I then change the temperature from 210 deg (which works very well with the old set) to 180 deg. I also used another thermal sensor to check the temperature is 180 deg. This setting can print, however, the temperature still fluctuating much more vigorous, say +/- 20deg, than the previous set, say +/- 5 deg. From time to time I will see the white smoke, a burned trace, and a sudden release of sticky gel with air from the nozzle. Anybody have some ideas?

I replace the hotend nozzle after 8 month of usage and even though it is still usable. I also change the filament to white-transparent and of course Cura (it's printing quality is much better than v13.11, though I haven't reach the best setting). Happily, it seems the situation of uneven darken color have disappeared, or at least temporary, if it is not the case where the white-transparent filament is not obvious for presenting the effect. Here is the old nozzle: http://flic.kr/p/iA76BU http://flic.kr/p/iA6TVZ Does it look normal? With red oxidized brass and dirty burned-like material on it? But there is still some “dirty spots” even after 5 hr of printing. This phenomenon had also happened quiet often: http://flic.kr/p/iA7DAn Does anybody have an idea on what going on? I guess it comes from the leakage through the junction between hotend isolator tube and the nozzle, to the outer part of the nozzle, and then to the print. Am I right? After changing the nozzle the smell becomes better, but still not as pleasant as popcorn. Well, like *brown sugar* will be acceptable as this case… I use only sewing oil now!

@ gr5: It was the green grease that has caused the disaster. After about 3 weeks of putting that on the Z-axsi, it became brown powderlized clog attached on the rod. That’s why I had to use the tooth brush and WD-40 to remove and dissolve the deposition, as well as re-lubricate the screw, otherwise a lots of noise had been generated during the z direction movement. I am wondering what the ingredient of green grease is and what the material of the z-axis rod is? Maybe the z-rod material serves as a catalyst for this chemical reaction because the green grease works very well for the x and y rod. @ Xeno: I saw a lot of prints from thinkgiverse, many of that are not in good printing conditions but none of that shows this kind of problem, so I am wondering probably the temperature fluctuation is tolerable. But you mention the unevenness of mixing the resin and the colorant, etc. which reminds me the possibility of mixing some unwanted elements during the manufacture process. May I ask do you still smell an ill odor during printing process or not? If ABS is 100% then PLA is around 40% of the bad odor in my print, regardless the difference of the odors. It is not the case of Makerbot machine and filaments, where I was almost not able to smell anything significant when putting my nose close to the nozzle. p.s. your model is awesome!

Hi, there: Here is the new photo. http://flic.kr/p/ith2xx Both of them are PLA. The gold is not transparent, while the green is. As you can see: 1. Similiar shape tend to has similiar pattern of darkeness (as the deers), but not necessary(the frogs). 2. The layer of darkeness varies a lot (compare the lower neck, middle, neck, the chin and the mouth of the deers). 3. The degree of darkeness also varies a lot (the one on dog's leg is of super dark!) @ IRobertl: the temperature fulcturation in general happens only within the first 5-10 min, with the variation less than 3-5 deg. But for the small objects like these, which take 20min - 1hr, to the large objects, which takes 3hr to print, almost none of them can be escape from this effect. I will print a square with another color later. @ gr5: If it is the unequalness of Z-axis movement that cause the over and under extrusion, does it also means the outer contours will be slightly wider or smaller? But I feel quiet smooth.... Also if it is the case I should see the general darken effect once lowering down the layer thickness, right? But, as the middle frog and the left frog, which have a 0.2mm and a 0.1mm thickness seperately the degree of green is the same in their "normal" parts.....So I am wondering what is the real problem. But how can I test the z-axis? I did unintentionally spray the sewing oil on Z-axis and caused a disaster - the oil dry up and clog within the screw. However, I used tooth brush and WD-40 to clean it up and now it works smooth and quiet. Thank you for debuging with me! I have been bothered for a long time.

Hello, The color of my prints changes from layer to layer. Usually the first darker layer appears in around 0.5cm above the bed, and may last for three layer, etc, and becomes normal. Then after certain layers, this phemenon happens again. Each time/layer the degree of darken varies. And no matter what kind of objects or PLA filaments I tried, it just happens. I supposed it is a temperature problem, so I played with printing tmeperature and minimal layer time. But it doesn't work. Anybody has an idea? Thank you very much! Here is a photo: http://flic.kr/p/isVsMd adenovirux

I make all the pulleys very tight to the shafts, and all the markers show there are no, at least significiant, movements. The printed results also go very well, tilts are corrected completely. However, the large shift still happens sometimes. When it comes, there is a sound every 0.5-1 sec or so. Does it means the motor skip steps? I have lubricated the rods, so the head move smoothly. The only thing remains uncheck is the end caps. In fact I don't really know to which degree is too tight, but I think it should be fine since the axis can always rotate without too much difficulty. Thanks again illuminarti!

Thanks, illuminarti & gr5! The gentle tilt (gradual shift) is rescured by the re-adjustment of the belt tightness, to solve the unequalness of front/back belt tightness. I have difficulty to distinguish the pith properly so I used a tuning app to help! And you're right, my shorter belt is about to rubbing the frame, also some of the pulleys are too loose so I can even move them along the shafts by finger. Also the two pulleys on the left back side are too close, so they bother each other when moving. I had make markers and will print a lot to see if the sudden shift happens again.

Hi, all: I download some samples from thinkgiverse, but it seems all the sample I printed are tilt in certain direction. The bed was calibrated as the instruction in "run bed leveling wizard". Anybody has an idea on what happens? Photo about the printed objects are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9456942@N08/9430782688/ Also you can see that there is a "base" in the left object, but it is because the motor shift an unexpected distance druing the print. This problem happens from time to time. Is there anyone also has the same phenomenum? Thansk a lot in advance! Carol