ballanux
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Posts posted by ballanux
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Hi!
might this kurled wheel work?
http://www.ebay.at/itm/281102410932?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
and I found a similar stepper
That wheel looks great, but I was checking the dimensions and I think the diameter of the UM2 feeder wheel should be 8mm and that one is 7mm. Could anyone confirm this?
The feeder could be modified to use a 7mm wheel but it also should be taken into account in the firmware.
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I don't think you want to put one of these on the UM1 because there is no way to turn it by hand. On the UM2 there are special new procedures in Marlin for changing filament. There's no "release" button that you can push to then push and pull filament in and out of your machine.
I'd like to see a design modification with a release button that holds the ball bearing away from the knurled sleeve so you can shove filament in or out with the other hand.
Also the UM2 has a new menu item "move filament" that makes it easy to prime the nozzle a bit. You can move filament in or out of the head. It's much too slow though to remove it from the entire bowden - for that you have the "change filament" menu option.
I didn't thought about not being able to push the filament by hand, but I don't see much problem about the "move filament" menu, the UM1 also has that option, maybe not so visible, but you can go to prepare, move axis, extuder.
Anyway I may try to put it as a second extruder, without dismantling the original, so I will have to find also a new spring and bearing
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Here's some related info from two weeks ago from Daid (numbers) and Joergen (sparkfun link):
> It has a holding torque of 44 N*cm, 400 steps per revolution. NEMA17 of
> 47mm. However, unless you are doing direct-drive it's way overpowered.
> I have no idea where to get them in small numbers.
google to the rescue: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846
Yes! I was thinking in buying that one :-)
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You need to drill extra holes to fit the motor, and the motor of the UM2 is stronger and more steps then the UM-Ori feeder. And you need the knurled sleeve.
The spring can be re-used, but you need to add a small spacer (5mm in my case). The actual spring in the feeder for the UM2 is a different one. The bearing is the same type as in the UM-Ori feeder that is holding the knurled bolt (so you have 2 of those)
Software wise you need to adjust the steps per mm for E to 141 or 282 depending on if you have a 200 step or 400 step per rotation motor.
http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20130405_155954.small.jpg parts needed
http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20130406_112324.small.jpg result on my home machine.
But your biggest problem would be the knurled wheel.
The home machines of UM employees are used quite a bit for testing UM2 parts. People have all kinds of machines in all kinds of states now. Many of us have the UM2 electronics fitted. Some have the feeder, some have the heated bed. But it all required custom tinkering or printed parts to get stuff fitted.
Great, thanks for the info! I might try to find a similar knurled wheel and put it together...
What are the specs of the motor? would be one of 400 steps and about 48Nm of torque enough?
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Ok, a bit later then expected. But I got permission to share the printable files:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-feeder-printable
This is a slightly dated version that used the UM-Original feeder spring and a 5mm spacer. But other then that it functions the same. I printed a lot of these for testing goals, and quite a few people working at Ultimaker have one of these printed versions on their home UM-Origonal.
mmm, so this could be used in the UM Original without much problem? I think I will try it :-)
Is the spring in this feeder the same than in the UM-Original?
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Today I was going to start with this mod, measured the fan PWM output at maximum setting and got 18,5V!! :shock:
Of course there isn't any problem that the PWM signal is 0-19V, it doesn't need to be regulated, but at least the software shouldn't allow a duty cycle that produces more that 12V.
Is this normal? I have a custom build firmware, but I didn't touch this part.
I think it's better to limit the duty to 161 (the maximum is 255) or something like that. Maybe a good fan will handle the extra power without much problem, but I'm sure that in the long term it will shorten its life.
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So this came in the mail just some minutes ago!
I'm going to design a mount for the Ultimaker and test it with the stock printing head. I will try to post some results soon!
edit: well, I just turned it on to check it works and it draws 411mA at 12V, just as specified. It may sound just a bit louder than the stock fan but of course it gives much greater air flow so in the final setup, with reduced speed, I'm sure I won't ear it at all.
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The thing is, I specifically bought the Basalt plate because there is no need to use any interface material (Kapton, Glue, whatever) with it.
The Basalt material is not exactly like glass, it's porous and not 100% mirror flat. That's what the seller says anyways.
I have a huge stock of Kapton tape (like 3 or 4 Rolls) but found it nearly impossible to get it on the platform cleanly. It's really hard to put a string of it on the plate exactly in parallel to the other, without them overlapping or having a gap.
And gluestick is no option in my opinion, I don't want to waste tons of gluestick while printing. I'm planning on making a little 3D printing factory with 3-4 printers which will be running almost all day. Depends on whether the things I'll design will be sellable or not (I'm still in the planning phase).
If you say you heat the platform to 70°C, does that mean that your thermistor says it's 70°C or did you measure the actual surface temperature of the platform to be 70°C (meaning the temperature set in software is probably higher)?
I think the cooling fan significantly drops the surface temperature on my bed. But I didn't complete my experiments yesterday so I'm not sure about that yet.
I will probably be using ABS for any "commercial" prints because they have to be long time stable (30 years and more service time -> storage products like specialised boxes and holders / stands). I hope ABS will stick better because there must be absolutely no warping.
I'll do more testing (with ABS mostly, and with the IR thermometer) tomorrow - today is a busy day :(
I used a 47K NTC thermistor that I had around and for which I didn't know it's exact specifications, so I calibrated it myself. For this, I measured the actual temperature in the top of the bed with a thermocouple and a multimeter. Of course, this won't be very accurate. With the fan on, the temperature difference between the top and the bottom of the bed will be greater than in my calibration.
In my case I have found that having the temperature in the 65~80ºC doesn't make much difference... In fact, right now I don't have any temperature control for my bed, I just adjusted the voltage in the additional power supply so the bed heats up to about 80ºC if I don't have the fan on, and with it the temperature drops to about 70~73ºC so it's working very well without any MOSFET or relay switching the power by software.
Of course, in the near future I will change this so I can run the entire printer with a single power supply. I'm just commenting it because I think the temperature hasn't have to be perfect. An error of 5ºC won't be a real problem.
But in your case... I'm sure that the thermal conductivity of the basalt is very low compared with aluminum. So the temperature gradient between the top and the bottom of the stone will be much greater. Also the thermal mass will be very high, so the temperature you are measuring can be very different... For example, when the fan turns on, the temperature at the top of the bed will decrease quickly, but the sensor at the bottom won't notice it until much later, possibly minutes, so during this time the temperature can decrease a lot at the top. This is just a guess, of course you should measure it and try to compensate for this errors.
You are right about the kapton tape, right now I have one roll of 10mm wide and it's very difficult to place properly, and the pattern of the kapton will show in the bottom of the prints, but I have bought a couple of rectangular kapton sheets of 20x20cm so this should solve the problem. Also, there are rolls of kapton of 20cm wide and even more but I think the sheets will be easier to place and will be more durable.
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I use kapton tape in my build platform and I heat it up to about 70ºC, with this, the PLA sticks without any problem
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Great post!
Maybe this has already been covered in another post, but what would be the target temperature for the heated chamber? Would you need additional heating to reach this temperature (apart from the heated bed)?
It may take me long, but I plan on doing this same mod, I build some time ago a 4 channel temperature logger, so it would be great to measure temperature in various points (external/internal ambient, heating build platform and hot end) and maybe even try to model it's thermal behavior.
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Got myself an infrared thermometer, but of course I left it at home and can't take a measurement today. I'll report back as soon as I have some measurements.
I've heard that about 50°C is the point where it starts to hurt your fingers. But actually I have never given it much thought myself...
I calibrated my heated bed some days ago with a multimeter and thermocouple and worked great. I think it's the most accurate way if you stick the thermocouple to the bed with some kapton tape
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It makes sense to look the history behind the idea of mounting the UBIS on an Ultimaker.
It's more or less a logical next step for the crossflow cooling approach. If you keep mounting clunky fans to the printhead you loose most of the benefits due to the hotend's compact and lightweight design (dual extrusion setups may benefit anyway).
The thermistor only requires a slightly changed firmware (new Marlin builder) and adding a 4.7 kOhm resistor to the board. I soldered a connector there, so I can change back and forth without any soldering.
I also ordered a crossflow fan from conrad, I think my ultimaker is going to look a lot like yours :-P
The firmware usually doesn't need big changes, if you use common components. I used a 47K NTC (for the heated bed) I had around and had to input a new thermistor table into the firmware so I couldn't use the Marlin builder, but that's a great tool, it's really easy to build a new firmware and upload it to the printer!
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this hotend can only be used for the UM1 or for the UM2 as well?
which adjustments to hardware and software are required (for UM2)
thanks michael
This hotend isn't designed for neither for UM1 or UM2, in any case, I don't see why you couldn't adapt it for UM2. I don't know if you will be able to use the mount Nick designed or if you will have to make your own.
In the firmware, maybe the PID values for the heating may change...
This is a big mod of the ultimaker that requires disassembling and possibly modifying various parts of it. If you are not confident enough... I wouldn't recommend it
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I ordered one... not sure if I should order another... :???:
I'm not sure if this sale is while the stock last, or if they are going to make new ones to meet demand.
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The UBIS hot ends are now available and on sale! It seems that they are discontinuing the product...
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Well, I'm somewhat irritated by Ultimaking's pricing policy.
I'm an electronic engineer and I can tell you that the price of the electronics is easily more than 5 times the price of the materials, even if you are doing very short production series of boards that price is ridiculous!
Also the quality is bad, or at least they don't test the boards, the first ulticontroler I received had a bad SD socket, they sent me a replacement... and it had a broken transistor... I repaired the second board using the transistor from the first, but having to do that, again, is ridiculous...
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Hi Ballanux,
You are taking a very simlar route to me, and mine has been working fine off the standard mosfet, no relay, for well over a year now.
You need to mypass the 5A DC connector by soldering to the PCB directly with your power leads but other than that no problem, the tracks have held up fine.
I used a reprap PCB heater rather than a silicone one but I don't think it matters. The only problem I had was when the aluminium wore through the insulation whilst removing a stuck part and shorted the PCB heater solder joints, which you won't encounter with your heater.
I chose a 24v version of the same power supply, but it adjusted down to 19v, as I am sure your 18v will adjust up if you want.
If you use the mosfet directly, you can enable PWM control of the heater plate in the formware which is a lot more stable than the slow on-off control. Be sure to run a M303 to establish your PID constants if you enable this.
Andrew
Thanks for the tips! You are right about the connector, maybe 10 amps is too much for it. How much current does your heater need?
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So, finally I have everything I need for the heated platform build! Well, I still don't have all the cabling, but at least now I can see how everything fits together.
First, this is the aluminium plate that came from lasermaster... I really expected something much better... they took 3 weeks to send my order and the plate was completely scratched on one side... the other side isn't that bad, but if this is the service they provide, I won't be buying anything from them, nor recommending it to anybody.
This is the scratched side, I will put it in the bottom:
This is the "good" side. You still can see some scratches:
This is the silicone heating pad I got from Ebay, it fits very nicely over the aluminium plate. Also you can see a small NTC I got from work, it's 47K and I don't know the exact temperature table from the manufacturer, but I think it will be good enough, my main concern is that it was small enough. Usually we have only encapsulated NTC which are at least 4mm diameter. If this isn't good enough I will switch to a thermocouple, but I think a couple of degrees of error won't matter much.
Finally, this is the power supply I got from Ebay, I plan to run the entire printer form it, not only the heated platform... but I will have to see how stable is the voltage when the controller starts switching to regulate the heated platform...
I still have to see If I can run the heating pad directly from the MOSFET if I can mount a small heatsink with good airflow I think it will be OK. The conduction losses will be about 1.8W, I still need to see about the switching losses.
I see that most people are using a relay to be sure they don't damage the board (and it's a good precaution to take) but it would be neat to use the MOSFET. Does somebody have done this before with the ultimaker electronics?
And of course, I still have to take a look at the marlin source to build the firmware with heated platform support.
Still a lot of work to do!
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The fans just looks cool :cool: the steppers don't need additional cooling at all... :mrgreen:
A motor should be able to run without much problem until either the cable insulation melts or the magnets loose their magnetization, both temperatures are much higher than the temperature the motor reaches.
I haven't measure the actual temperature, but I don't think is higher than 75ºC or so, and that should be completely fine :-P
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Great ideas.
Just wondering, how do you guys recommend I mount heat syncs to the x and y motors? Is there some sort of thermal-conductive adhesive I can apply?
Yes, there are some thermal conductive sheets that also have adhesive, but as you can see I have mounted the heatsinks just with wire and a nylon tie.
I will probably put heatsinks in the X and Y motors, but I can't mount the fan, because it interferes with the build platform
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Hi!
Just wanted to share how I did the same. I also used a small heatsink:
The sad part is that if I get the new dual extruder I won't be able to put the fan this way...
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WHATEVER YOU DO, make sure you:
Save the resulting Congifuration.h file and the resulting hex file in a permanent location that you never ever change and date it and explain why you built it so that when you need to build another Marlin a year from now you can do a diff of Configuration.h to see what you did differently from the "norm". And if your arduino dies and you need to reload marlin you will have the hex file ready to go.
Great advice! will do that :mrgreen:
I hope I can contribute with something... but the time is sooe scarce!!
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Some updates! :mrgreen:
I have received the silicone heater and looks great!
I'm still waiting for the aluminium plate to come... the guys at lasermaster are taking their time to cut it... I don't know if they have a ton of orders or if they just don't care about a small order like this...
I have bought a switched power supply in eBay, should be enough to power all ultimaker stock electronics and the heated bed. It's 18V 22A, so just under 400W.
The silicone heater will take 12A and of course I will need to regulate the power either with a MOSFET or a relay. Provably to use the current MOSFET it will be necessary to put a heatsink, but this would be the best solution. Also, I don't know if the PCB traces are wide enough, I will check the PCB desing
Ideally it would be great to control the heated bed with the Marlin firmware... but this is not currently supported right? I will try to take a look at it, after all I'm a firmware developer for temperature controls at my job :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
If this is too much trouble I may end up just using one of the temperature controllers that we make at my job:
http://www.keld-electronics.com/en/product-category/keld-control-product-line/temperature/
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Awesome!! Thanks a lot
I you don't mind to wait, I have already ordered an aluminium plate with that dimensions. I hope next week I can give some feedback, so you will be sure that dimensions fits well :cool:
Bed Gcode Mod idea
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Building a 3D printer is not an easy task, you shouldn't be ashamed not getting it right on the first try! (or second, or third...)
Always provide as much information as you can so other people can help you faster and better.
Anyway, you shouldn't rush things, always read the manual before and after doing some assembly and do the proper checks for every part of the machine before start printing for the first time. You should have tried to just make the extruder "home" before heating it up.