ballanux
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Posts posted by ballanux
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If it does just buy some glass and put on top of the aluminum with clips that let the glass expand. Ideally you want pyrex but many people use cheap standard glass (you can probably get 10 cut and edges smoothed for a few dollars each) and mount it with clips so it can expand and they only break occasionally. The advantage of lots of pieces of glass is you can remove one finished part and let it cool while starting the next.
I will do that! well... better if I don't need to :mrgreen:
but it's a good idea
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Wow!!
suddenly the heating element I bought for 46GBP it's now listed as 737GBP!!! :eek:
I hope that's a mistake, because it can't be so expensive! Well, it definitely has to be a mistake, because they have a bigger heater which is about the same price that the one I bought...
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Finally I'm going to use standard 5mm aluminium plate and hope it won't warp :-|
I also have replied you in other thread, but here are the drawings I'm going to use to cut the plate:
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For the heater I'm going to use a silicon heater, you can search " Reprap 215*215mm 12V 100W Silicone Heater 3D Printer Prusa Mendel Self-adhesive" in ebay to find it.
And for the dimensions of the bed, I have done a DXF to ask for a quotation on how much does it cost to laser-cut it in a 5mm aluminium plate. You can find my drawings in
The acrylic bed is a bit bigger than in my drawing (maybe 1.5mm bigger) but the mounting holes dimensions are accurate (I hope!).
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That's a special aluminum for tooling plate right?
I asked lasermaster.co.uk price for laser cutting a plate and for their flatness tolerance. They say the material tolerance for flatness is +- 0.2mm over the face of a whole 1250x2500 sheet. would that be right?
Anyway I will also ask them about the mic6 aluminum.
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Hi all!
I would like to add a heated build platform to my ultimaker. For this purpose I have bought a 215x215mm silicone heater in ebay and I'm thinking of using an aluminium heated bed instead of a glass one.
To get a rigid bed I think I should use a thickness of 4 mm at least. A sheet of 240x*240x4mm would weight about 620gr. Is this too much? It seems like a lot of weight to me, but as the platform seems very sturdy, it may handle the weight just well.
As the aluminium can be drilled without problems, I would use the current leveling screws to support it. But this may be a problem, do you think the transfered heat to the screws can be high enough to melt the plastic inserts in the wood? would be a good idea to replace them?
The silicone heater can be driven up to 18V 12A, does anyone know a good power supply with this characteristics?
Does anyone use this type of heaters? how well they work? (maybe I should have asked this before buying it! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: )
Thanks
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The support people replied to me very quickly, they will send me another board. I will print from the PC in the mean time.
If there are problems with this card socket maybe it's time to find another supplier for them.
If any other pin would have been bent instead of GND it would have made the SD card not to work and find the problem immediately, this was a bit unfortunate :???:
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I doubt it's a firmware bug, because I've never heard of this happening before and surely someone would have run into it by now. So if it's really happening as you suspect, then I'd start by looking for a problem with the card, or the reader hardware... but it's certainly an odd one, so please do keep us posted as you try to track it down.
You were right!! One of the SD card reader pins in the ulticontroller is smashed down!! :mad: :mad:
Even more, it's pin 3, which is GND. As there is 2 GND pins (the other one, pin 6 is right) this causes the card to work, but being more susceptible to failure, maybe EMC related...
This will be difficult to repair... and I'm pretty sure this had to came already broken, it's very difficult to bend a single pin in the middle of the reader, so I think I will put a support ticket :-|
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The two pictures show the same corrupted file. But what's more intriguing... I have found that this corruption only occurs during the print!
I did the following:
- Import the STL file in cura
- Save the gcode to the SD card and copy this file to the PC
- Take the card, insert it again
- Read the gcode, it was OK
- Print the object, then another error occurred
- Stopped the print
- Read the gcode in the PC, it was corrupted!
This is the gcode file view in cura after the print:
This is how the object printed:
Unfortunately I formated the card afterwards without saving the gcode, I should have made a comparison to see exactly what went wrong...
I have tried other SD card, but it doesn't get recognized by the ulticontroller (it's a 16Gb card with a partition of only 2Gb), I don't have any other 2Gb SD card...
Now I'm printing another object with the SD card write protected, I'm at 77% and everything is ok, but you never know until the end...
After this print I will try to replicate the error and see what changed in the file after printing... maybe a firmware bug?
Thanks
- Import the STL file in cura
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Hi all!
I finished my ultimaker yesterday and started printing immediately :cool: , the print quality is good, but sometimes the printer head starts doing weird things, like moving to another location outside the object and come back to start printing some layers above the object.
I checked the gcode in my PC and everything was right, but then, I checked the gcode in the SD card (I'm printing from the ulticontroller) and it seems corrupt at some point, which causes a couple of layers to appear in mid air!
Do you know what can be causing this?? Defective SD card? I'm using the one that came with the ulticontroller...
Thanks!
My custom heated bed
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Seriously, there has to be a mistake in that price, ask the vendor. I only paid 54€ (including shipping) for mine, now it's 860€ that's just impossible!