geoff-t
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Posts posted by geoff-t
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not fixed yet but definitely opengl issue, I tried opening Google Earth in opengl mode no imagery, works fine in directx
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Thanks Dim3nsioneer, yes I was forced, it started with an option to delay for 2 days maximum which after that the choice limited to a maximum 4 hours, once restarted that was it.
I've re-booted many times with no success, I can remember that solving a similar issue last year when trying to upgrade. I'll have a look at the opengl drivers.
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Microsoft finally FORCED me to 'upgrade' to win 8.1 from win 8.0, I'd been resisting since the end of last year as every time I went through the process it failed to upgrade and offered no solutions to the problems and generally required a factory reset to get things back to normal.
Anyway yesterday despite my best efforts to avoid any change it offered no choice but to upgrade within 4 hours! it restarted itself and upgraded, mostly successful but has left me with some significant problems.
I had problems with Cura 14.07 straight away, ultra slow reactions in the active model window. I can't zoom, rotate the view or use the other buttons, If I do a rotate view nothing happens tab through to another application then back to cura and the move has happened. I've removed re-installed and tried other versions of Cura but still the same problem even with very small models or no model loaded.
I'm running on a lenovo laptop with Nvidia GEFORCE and intel onboard graphics, played around with options on those and disabled virus firewall.
This is obviously a microsoft problem but given the symptoms in cura I wonder if anyone has any suggestions.
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Your Cura image shows the part coloured grey indicating it is too big to print, so probably when you save the gcode it's saving the last gcode created which was when it was sitting upright. By rotating the object so it can run corner to corner you should be able to get it to print.
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Thanks very much Robert that gives me something to get started.
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Things like hinges, say for a 2mm diameter cylinder, what diameter hole would be required to get it moving easily?
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Can someone give me some pointers for the modelling requirements, and maybe print settings for printing moving parts in a single print. I'll be using UM1 with PLA
thanks
Geoff
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We've got cura working with win 8.1, we've got another in theory identical machine running win 8 that won't update to win 8.1 and has display issues with numerous 3d programs including cura........sometimes. The problem seems to be with the graphics card drivers, I'd swap to win 7 any day, never had such a disappointing purchase before, and I once owned a machine with vista! Delighted with the ultimaker original and cura.
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A bit delayed but I've had a go now, the PLA 90 worked perfectly for making a mould but I have found it very difficult to get such good printing results as standard PLA. As I'm generally making jewellery type objects this is a bit of an issue. However I can see the potential for some less exacting requirements.
Within the same mould I also placed some standard PLA patterns depending on shape and fill density there were mixed results ranging from severely crushed and distorted through to acceptable. I'm going to have another go try and keep the temperature and pressure lower for longer and use nothing but solid patterns. I'll try and take some photos next time.
anyone mystified by the process can read more here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spin_casting
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That sounds promising, I'll get the New Year celebrations out of the way then give it a go :cool:
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Thanks, I'll have a go at removing it first.
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I've not been able to connect my Ultimaker original via USB for some time. I've read many threads about this issue and tried all suggestions but it won't connect to a range of machines from XP to windows 8.
For printing no problem but as time moves on I'm updating cura but don't seem to have a means of updating the firmware, can this be done via the SD card? or is there some other way of doing this?
Thanks
Geoff
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I've just received delivery of some PLA90 from Orbi-Tech, very good service. I tried my first print earlier, I went for a temperature of 225, I normally run about 210 for standard PLA. It's looking promising, I started another thread early this week under Questions and Answers as I intend making low temperature vulcanised silicone moulds for spin casting pewter. This requires being held at a temperature of about 90C for an hour. I'll give that a try when I'm a little less busy next week and report back with some photos.
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Thank you IRobertl, that seems to have the required properties, a supply in the UK would be ideal but not a great hardship to buy from Germany if it works.
Thanks gr5 for the abs tips, I'm mostly doing jewellery sized objects without overhangs so that too may be worth a try.
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I spin cast low melt metals like pewter and use low temperature vulcanising silicon for moulds. This involves heating to 90C with the mould under pressure so standard PLA will soften and distort too much in the process. As I don't have a heated bed ABS isn't an option at the moment so I was wondering if anyone could recommend something likely to resist the heat and pressure of my process. I'm in the UK.
So far we have had success with sand casting directly from prints but this is limited by complexity of shapes, we've also done some lost wax style burnout of PLA with reasonable results but it's a lot of effort and a bit prone to less than perfect results.
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Brim may be overkill - it's normally set to a lot of loops, and its attached to the print. I usually find that a skirt of 3 or 4 passes is sufficient, and you don't have to worry about separating that from the print afterwards.
The other thing that will probably help is to increase the amount of priming extrusion in your starting gcode. In cura, there's a line in the starting gcode that looks something like:
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
I prefer to change this to:
G1 F90 E6 ;extrude 6mm of feed stock
This extrudes twice as much plastic, and at a slower pace that won't over-tax the nozzle. You could also add a delay command after that, to give yourself a chance to clean up the nozzle for easily...
G4 P2000 ; pause 2000ms
That works very well for me, I was always failing adhere on first print then success on starting again, those lines cure that for my set up. Thanks.
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Thanks Illuminarti, almost September, they will be back at school very soon :cool: although it's not too bad for tourists here we're so far to the west on a clear day we can see the US :-P
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Hello from the very far south west of England.
I got my ready built Ultimaker a few weeks ago. I just didn't have the time or patience to go for a kit but would have coped if the budget demanded it. I've been printing some great robots! Now I'm starting to get reasonable results with my own stuff. I have had some issues with my models which I make in 3ds Max, I'm generally getting these sorted using Netfabb basic and sometimes using the fix horrible options within Cura.
The one unresolved issue I have is connecting via USB, (64 bit Win 7 :???: ) when the machine arrived it worked, then it became troublesome needing considerable effort to get it recognised, now it won't connect at all. I'm happily printing from the SD card but it would probably be more convenient for calibration and fine tuning to have a direct connection. I'm going to have a go at a dual boot Linux and see if that sorts anything out but I have tried connecting to a laptop with XP without any luck so perhaps there is an issue with my printer.
Geoff
Cura problems after win 8.1 'upgrade'
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I'm getting there, my windows user profile got corrupted in the 'upgrade' process, I created a new account and from there I can now use Cura and other programmes that had stopped working properly. So at least I can get back to work with the minor inconvenience of having to change users.