jino
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Posts posted by jino
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Ok, I don´t have time to look at the moment, let us know if you dig something up
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I've just completed two 40-hour prints with 645 with no problems, so it is at least possible to get reliable large prints with it, if you get a bowden tube with good tolerances.. I've ordered the new Bridge filament also, will be interesting to try.
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Ah, yes, I'm one of them new casual users, we never read text that is put in brackets.. Ok, I tried that but I didn't get any sound, but I think it waited for awhile.. but then it started extruding way too slow..
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Hi, sorry for the late reply, that sounds good, but can't find the start gcode tab? I'm using 14.01, and there's nothing beside the Plugins tab..
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Hi,
Just a beep say 5 seconds before the printer actually starts printing. I always want to grab the string that comes out so that it won't melt on the nozzle or create a bump. At the moment I'm throwing myself at the printer when the head starts moving, cause I don't have the attention span to sit and wait for the nozzle to heat up
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Thanks for the replies, good to know that there are no hidden differences, just that the nozzle size is not a flow rate adjuster, should have figured that one out.
I´m experimenting with getting better layer bonding with nylon, increasing the flow rate with 10% helps a little..
Interesting how Cura handles different wall thicknesses. If I decrease the nozzle with 10% ( to 0,36mm) and increase the flowrate with 10% and keep the wall thickness a multiplier of 0,36, I should be able to get the layers to extrude into each other and bond a little more.. worth a try
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Hi,
Are there any differences between these settings?
In the Ultimaker 2:
Flow - in customize material
(Filament) Diameter - in customize material
Material flow - when printing
In Cura:
Nozzle size - in advanced settings
It seems all these settings control how much material the extruder will feed at any given speed, so if I want to increase the flowrate, they would give me the same result?
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I assume you've only tried 645? 618 is way more easy to print at faster speeds in my experience..
EDIT: I removed the settings I wrote here, turned out I had a loose bowden tube, so they are not recommended
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I've tried taulman 645 now, and it is definitely more difficult to print with than 618 for me. When printing the bracelet for example, it works fine, but with parts that have lots of retraction it is under-extruding. Maybe it sticks more to the bowden tube or something. It is more translucent compared to 618, and at higher temps it seems to "crystallise".. currently using 245 degrees, 2,5mm retraction, 3,05mm nozzle setting, 0,2mm layers.
Edit: The layer bonding seems to be better, and it's less brittle I think.
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Seems like a really low temperature for nylon? I've only tried taulman at 245 minimum and I have basically no stringing.. I printed at 260 today and I ran out of filament, so I just fed some more in while the machine was running. Now I got some stringing since the retraction was not working well, but decreasing the temp to 245 almost removed all stringing, despite retraction not being able to function well..
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Today I tried 100mm/s, 0,2mm layers, 260°, no fan and that worked ok. The quality is a little worse. Bonding is better with no fan. Possibly due to higher temp also, have to do some tests on what settings will decrease delamination. I tried putting the diameter to 2.95, because I read that over extruding material would help with bonding, but that covered the nozzle tip in nylon
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I tried printing it in nylon with Daid's settings, had to change the thickness to 0,4, or the triangle corners would fuse together but otherwise it worked fine.
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I've also printed Taulman 618 on UM2, works really well I think. Maybe I was lucky with the bowden ID, but I get no sticking. I used the standard PLA-profile and changed temp to 245, dimension to 3mm and buildplate 40 degrees. First I tried glue with the glass plate. I got some slight warping on the UM-robot.
Now I have switched to an art canvas (some sort of textile on a masonite) which works great, I get no warping. (Build plate of course changed to 0 degrees)
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It means it will be shipped out this week.
Ok, that's fine! Thanks for the promt reply.
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I suspect it is the shipping date...
Ok, either way is fine, as long as it's either of those two
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Hi, I ordered on October 14 and got an email with "week 51 you Will recieve your order. Guaranteed"
so.. that should mean that I will get the magic printer this week, right? Or does it mean that you will ship it this week?
Change to sizing of Taluman nylons?
in Coffee corner
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Hi, now I have finally tried the bridge also. For me the filament is 2.85mm, if you also have that diameter you should change the diameter setting in the printer or it will not extrude enough material. Make sure the nozzle is very close to the surface.. I usually adjust the height on the fly while it is printing the brim. The lines on the brim should flow into each other..
Bridge is the best nylon I have tried yet. I have only tried small prints, but I can use glue stick on glass! It appears to be sticking a little better and also warps less, like it says on the Taulman webpage. I use a 5 line brim and 40 degree buildplate. 247 degree nozzle.