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jerry-blade

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Posts posted by jerry-blade

    New ColorFabb brassFILL shipping end of January 2015

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Jerry!

    If you mount a stainless steel Nozzle, it will upset the heat transfer, stainless steel is a much poorer

    conductor of low frequency electromagnetic radiation ( = heat) than brass, which composes

    mostle of copper.

    Chromium plated brass is worth investigating,. and I am looking into it as we speak!

    Since you have an UMO, you can easily change the nozzle... hehe...

     

    I was wondering that actually about stainless steel - good point! Let me know if you find a Chromium Plated Brass or Hardened Copper Alloy Nozzle!

     

    New ColorFabb brassFILL shipping end of January 2015

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Also, with the new colorFabb XT-CF20 Carbon Fiber filament, they recommend the following:

    CARBON FIBER IS ABRASIVE:

    A special point of attention is the abrasive nature of the carbon fibers. In general these fibers will accelerate the nozzle-wear of brass nozzles, much faster than unfilled filaments. Therefore we recommend to use nozzle’s from Stainless steel or hardened copper alloys.

    Any suggestion on where to get a quality Stainless Steel or Hardened Copper Alloy Nozzle for an UMO?

    Thanks :)

    -Jerry

     

    Makerfaire NYC 2014!!

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    I believe it is one upgrade kit since the heated bed and z-stage would be difficult (if not impossible) to separate as they basically reuse much of the solution on the UM2. The fan housing is really just a hood that replaces the existing snap-together-ready-to-melt-as-soon-as-you-print-anything-hotter-than-PLA solution. In theory, they could sell that one part all by itself.

    We did see some slides with pink unicorns... but nothing complete :)

     

    Makerfaire NYC 2014!!

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    The z-stage upgrade looks to be the exact same z-stage as on the UM2, complete with glass print surface, metal base, new threaded rod, and three point leveling system. I believe a more formal announcement will come later today or tomorrow for sure. This information is coming from the group of us who were present at the informal announcement at the Shapeways factory last night :)

     

    Makerfaire NYC 2014!!

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Per Daid in the other thread mentioned above:

     

    A UMO & HeatedBedKit & DualKit can be done. Then you use 2 power supplies, the new one for the heated bed, and the old one for the normal heaters+electronics. This is actually

    supported just fine.

     

     

    Is this Cura video using Dual extrusion KIT?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    I thought I remembered hearing last night that the UMO upgrade (with the heated bed, new z-stage, and hot end fan enclosure) includes a new PSU, and that some basic wire stripping / soldering may be required to piggyback/power the new mini heater electronics board via the UM electronics.

    This would only potentially work on an upgraded UMO since it has the two separate electronics boards, but couldn't you, in theory, use the new PSU and dedicate it to the heater board and leave the original PSU connected to the UMO electronics? You would have to plug in two PSUs but then wouldn't have a wattage issue.

     

    Makerfaire NYC 2014!!

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Also, I thought I remembered hearing last night that the UMO upgrade (with the heated bed, new z-stage, and hot end fan enclosure) includes a new PSU, and that some basic wire stripping / soldering may be required to piggyback/power the new mini heater electronics board via the UM electronics.

    This would only potentially work on an upgraded UMO since it has the two separate electronics boards, but couldn't you, in theory, use the new PSU and dedicate it to the heater board and leave the original PSU connected to the UMO electronics? You would have to plug in two PSUs but then wouldn't have a wattage issue.

    Note: I haven't seen the actual kit - last night's demo was using the UMO+ with the UM2 electronics, so all of this is speculation on my part.

     

    Bed Leveling Screws

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Yeah I was guessing my springs aren't tight enough right now. 6mm at the back and probably 10-12mm at the front sounds loose based on your description. I'm going to push the back springs to maybe 1mm, and level from there. The good news, is I get an extra 5mm build height should I choose to print anything that high! :)

    I started looking into building a heated glass bed with an aluminum z-stage, but once I started hearing the "rumors" about what is coming soon, I decided to wait... and am definitely planning on buying something that weekend. Whatever it is, I am sure I will *have* to have it, my preciousssss...

    So, an attractive woman wearing a 3d-printed beer dispensing device at chest level and cookie-based jewelry would be the holy grail? :mrgreen:

     

    Bed Leveling Screws

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    gallery_35649_1178_166094.jpg

    This is how my Ultimaker Original is set "normally", and I adjust the screws from there. Is this too "loose"? How tight should they be? I don't want to compress the springs to the point where they lose their elasticity, but at the same time, i don't want them so loose that the bed is "spongy" when the hot-end applies pressure during extrusion.

    Aside from getting occasional first layer issues (i.e. drags filament all over the place which then cakes on the nozzle forcing a restart), once the unit gets going, it does an excellent job of printing. Also, for successful prints, bed adhesion is excellent.

    I am getting my printer really dialed in so I am focusing on the little things now :)

    Thanks!

    -Jerry

     

    Nuts Fell Out - solved

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    There, or the nuts on the end caps of the X/Y rods (8mm rods) which are a bitch to put back in. And I usually replace them with lock-nuts.

     

    This was the culprit - After inspecting them, I noticed several were loose... I am printing some replacement inside/outside endcaps... since replacing the nuts is going to be a royal PITA... having the nuts locked in on the inside caps, and having a way to calibrate the outside caps with a metal-on-metal point of contact (after rounding the bolts with a dremel) should reduce potential friction quite a bit.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:99113

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075

    Thanks for giving me some places to look!

    -Jerry

     

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