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chenobble

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  1. Just tried - the head isn't moving at all when I try to move it by hand - not even in the y-axis.
  2. I turned on my printer after a couple of months being unused and tried to run a test print. The standard warmup went through successfully and the print head moved to the middle of the bed with no issues. However, as soon as it started printing, any time the head was supposed to move side to side the printer gave out a horrible grinding noise, the belts juddered and the head hardly moved. I quickly aborted the print but instead of returning to home position the head simply stayed still, continually giving off the grinding noise, then stopped and displayed an 'ER07' error. It seems like the left-right movement is failing due to either the belt or the motor or something is jamming the mechanism - looking from above the front-to-back axle likes slightly off-straight. This feels like a pretty serious issue. Any advice?
  3. Hi Sander, Didn't click the link - too experienced to be caught out like that. Glad that you guys are on top of it!
  4. danilius - the wipe tower is a good idea and making it something small but tall wouldn't eat into my print time too much. Will definitely do this next time. dim3 - i'm not convinced retracting it further or faster will help as the material would still be there. I'll check the filament tonight. Cheers!
  5. I got this email this morning: ********************************************************************* Subject: DROPBOX Sender: Daniel Abram (d.abram@ultimaker.com Morning, Please see the document we uploaded for you using Google shared document app,it is very important for payment. Click here to view the document, [LINK REMOVED] Daniel Abram Ultimaker GB Ltd Office: 01257 276116 Mobile: 07773 378459 www.ultimaker.com www.createeducation.co.uk IMAGINE IT >> MAKE IT Meet us online at Twitter, Facebook, Google+ www.ultimaker.com ********************************************************************* Of course the link did not go to dropbox and the wording was so poor it was immediately obvious that it was spam. My concern is the originating email - even if it was spoofed, Ultimaker is hardly a popular choice of spam origin and I am concerned that this means spammers have either gained access to Ultimaker's customer list or are somehow getting email addresses from the forums.
  6. I've been getting problems with excess material on my UM2 prints recently so I paid extra attention during my latest run and noticed that during the 'Cool Head Lift' period the nozzle is continuing to extrude PLA at a steady rate. When it goes back to the print this coil of half-cooled plastic is still hanging from the nozzle and either sticks to the side or, worse, is mushed into the next layer leaving huge lumps of unwanted plastic on the final print. Is this something I can fix with the settings or is it a hardware issue? [Running Ultimaker Silver PLA on my stock UM2]
  7. So I tried again today and with a little more force the end came out of the isolator and the spacer quite easily - my current theory is that there was some sort of earlier jam and that caused the feeder to grind the spot of filament it was trying to move to nothing and that's why it stopped kicking out plastic even after the jam was cleared - and why it failed to retract the filament during troubleshooting. I cut off the offending section and reloaded the filament. Printing a test run now to make sure I haven't broke anything. It's kicking out a load of blackened crap but it's printing - running it at a high temp to clear it out... Cheers for the help!
  8. After not getting any filament coming out during printing and the normal troubleshooting failing I took my hot end apart thinking it was a nozzle blockage however the nozzle is completely empty - further disassembly has convinced me that the PLA is either melted or jammed inside the isolator... isolator hanging from filament: http://i.imgur.com/KEoYCaT.jpg awful pic of gold filament blocking isolator: http://i.imgur.com/Yh8PQhT.jpg so I want to know - 1: what's the best way of clearing this jam? 2: How can I avoid it happening again! Cheers Gary.
  9. First thing I did was re-level the bed, but in case I didn't do it properly I tried what you suggested using one of the default models... I pushed down on the print bed for a second and it immediately started printing perfectly! I now suspect there's a problem with the model I'm trying to print and that last time I tried printing something else the feeder had already ground down the PLA too much to print anything. Thanks for the (surprisingly effective) suggestion!
  10. Hi folks My UM2 suddenly stopped working between prints this weekend. When I go to print anything it does the standard heating up procedure including extruding a little PLA in the corner just before starting but then when it comes to print no actual plastic comes out. The feeder is turning but just grinding down the PLA. I thought at first it was a blockage or a feeder issue but I re-loaded the PLA using the 'change plastic' procedure and it fed and extruded fine during that process. Any ideas?
  11. gr5 - thanks - i'll try meshmixer! Skint - I tried printing this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:98361 with some of the settings suggested on this site before I recieved these replies - I slowed the print speed to 40 and upped the quality to high but didn't think to turn off support. It seemed to reduce the nubs a lot but the strings are still there, details are somewhat blurred and I don't know what happened to the spear... http://imgur.com/a/IdbTx#0
  12. Hi folks, Using Cura 14.0.7 and with the firmware updated as of two days ago. I feel like most of my issues are basic newbie problems but i can't see an FAQ anywhere so I'll go ahead and ask... Just got my UM2 working after the temperature sensor broke the day I bought it and my first few prints are finally coming out. I'm hugely excited by this but there are a few concerns I have, namely: 1. The support framework that Cura makes leaves an obvious grid pattern on the underside of my prints which takes some serious sanding to remove, obviously affecting detail quality of the model. 2. the model, even on flat surfaces, is covered in plastic nubs that also need sanding off. 3. Strings of excess plastic presumably from where the nozzle relocated with melted PLA stuck to it. These are easy to remove but may be indicative of other issues. 4. Removing the print from the glass bed requires a paint scraper and a lot of force despite liberal application of the provided gluestick before printing. Bear in mind that I've yet to come to grips with the configuration settings (or even how to change them) of my UM2 so you may need to overexplain some things...
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