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  1. Just realized I never posted the outcome here. This is what happened: I tried hard to fit ... well, anything ... to the bed. I couldn't source the right connector, as it's supplied with the bed as a complete unit. But the pads that I was trying to connect to were badly frazzled anyway, and gradually the whole area disintegrated; there was nothing stable to solder anything to. Problem was that the whole bed acted as a massive heat-sink, and I couldn't inject enough local heat to control the solder. The thermistor started falling off too... I contacted Creat3D - our origi
  2. Hi, I noticed that when I touch the metal surfaces of our UM2, I could feel a slight electrical buzz in my fingers, which was stronger when not wearing shoes. This includes the Z-axis guide rods, and the thin exposed metal on the edges of the laser-cut front panel. The buzz feeling was still there when the UM2 was switched off. So I checked the power supply DC connector with a multimeter, and I can see 100-110V AC between the connector's outer and real ground (checked against a PC back-panel, and a gas pipe). It's got almost no power behind it - which is why we're not i
  3. Hey Torgeir, thanks for that ... yep, I was looking at those, but I was rather hoping to find the exact connector - that way, I won't have to do too much improvisation around mounting and fixing it. I've become a bit cautious after the smoke and sparks :-) Cheers, Mbef
  4. Actually, let me simplify the question: Does anyone know where I can source a replacement heated bed 4w connector, please? Thanks!
  5. I suspected there was something funny when my UM2 (now UM2+) smelled a bit different. But when I saw some magic smoke coming out of the wires at the back of the heated bed, and then a little sparking, my suspicions were confirmed. Something bad was going down. On close inspection, the big heater power wires were charred to carbon, and on removing the build-plate and bed assembly, the main brown wire (#2) was melted into the connector. The connector is toast - literally. It has made me think, because we've had a few Temp Sense Error: BED alerts over the years, which get better when you poke t
  6. Marvellous - thanks for the detailed instructions, despite my inability to spell "rectangular" in the title It's actually quite difficult to get the pulleys into a position where they can be adjusted - on one of the diagonals, I could only get at one pulley or the other. But once I knew that I had to loosen pulleys, it was easy to follow your instructions and improvise. I have re-calibrated once, and it's better, but still not quite right. I am printing some little spacing parts that will fit into the gaps between the sliding blocks and the pulleys to make it easier to get the distances exa
  7. Hi, I have an Ultimaker 2 which has been working well for over a year. I printed an object with a rectangular base the other day, and a casing to hold it, and when I put them together (one inverted), to my surprise they didn't fit. The corners are no longer rectangular, and squares are coming out rhombic in the X-Y plane. By the looks of it, the print-head rails are no longer lined up with the frame or each other. I suspect the belts have slipped a tooth - oddly, in each axis. Or perhaps the toothed pullies that hold the belts are slipping on their rods. Of course, I'm now measuring everyt
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