phil-t

Just to follow up, this is the infill getting rougher and rougher as the vibrations caused by the head moving over it just escalated until I had to stop it. As mentioned above, the best thing to do is slow it right down, up the nozzle temp to slowly melt through and smooth out for a few layers! I've just had a similar issue almost start with a bridged gap, and found slowing a 50mm/s @ 0.2 layer height down to 30% (15mm/s) (Nozzle is already @ 230 with PLA) seemed to do the job, bringing it all back into shape!

Thanks for the help! Sorry for the confusion, the wall thickness was 2mm (5 * .04mm, and only increased from standard as I wanted a little more meat around the 4 holes.) The advice both of you have given is great, and I wish I'd have thought of that at the time! I'll bear that in mind. The warping was just a little bit of lift at the base, and oddly when I printed it with 100% infill, there was zero lifting, quite impressive considering the footprint size of the item is quite large! The good thing about printing it with 100% infill was I could use the tune menu to see how more/less temperature and speed affect things! and see what a happy medium is for the green PLA! I will get some pictures posted in this thread, no doubt someone in the future might have the same issue, and it's nice when it's all documented! but for now, I think I can count this as 'solved'! oh, and I'm in the UK, right inbetween Gloucester and Cheltenham!

Hi, I've just picked up a second hand UM2, and in the main I'm really impressed, but obviously there is a nice learning curve with these things! Everything was going OK until I wanted to try a larger print (204 x 158 x 45mm), I spent a while trying to get the first layer to stick (it has 4 x M3 thread holes that are tricky to get started), but the actual issue that has caused me to abort after 5 hours is because of the in-fill.. At some point I had a small amount of stringing/under extrusion occur (no idea why, it seemed quite random), and this led to one or two strands that clumped, and when it tried to do some infill on this, the further away from the Z axis screw it gets, the more the head seemed to vibrate as it went over the clumps, the knock on effect is that causes more ripples by itself as the material instantly sets whilst the bed is vibrating and it slowly spirals into a worse and worse set of peaks and bumps with the infill being very rough vertically. I am just trying it with no infill, but just wondering if there is anything I can try? It was UM PLA green, 210/60C @50mm/s, infill 20%, 0.2mm wall thickness. The other issue I had is the outer wall also slightly warped (the one to the front of the machine where the opening is, the back of the print was fine).I don't know if I need more or less temperature at the bed to help this, or whether a brim would help.

Hi Peter, Thank you very much for showing me the printer today and talking me through the calibration etc! It's all home, plugged in and printing a quick robot out! These forums are great, I had a couple of hiccups (ticking feeder), but I've found all my answers on here, so it's all nice and sorted now!! Will be ramping up to printing some larger parts (203mm x 158mm x 48mm), but so far I'm genuinely gob smacked how accurate the UM2 is!

Hi, I've just e-mailed you about the Ultiimaker, if you haven't received the e-mail let me know! Regards Phil

Hi Dan, I think we are probably just that tiny bit too far apart. The closer to £1500 I get, I just think a few hundred more and I can jump to dual extrusion (Creatr HS et al).. Let me know if you can maybe look at some price in the middle, it's really just for a very infrequent hobby use, but I do appreciate quality, so ultimaker are deffo on my list..

I was just about to order the Ultimaker Original+ kit, but might go a little higher if I can help you out! I was really wanting to be as close to £1200 as possible, and will be able to make my way over to Surrey if it helps!