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ggabriele3

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Posts posted by ggabriele3

  1. I'm using the latest version of Cura with a Printrbot Simple Metal.

    My printer has a build area of 152.4mm^3. This is set properly in my EEPROM M211 settings.

    In Cura's Machine Settings, I have the Build Area set to 152.2.4mm^3 as well.

    However, Cura will not let me print anything larger than 149.9mm. Even with skirt set to zero, a print with 150mm in X and Y is showing up grayed out, and "Scale To Maximum" scales it down to ~149mm.

    Is there a way to get Cura to give me the correct/full build area?

  2. It's hard to turn off top/bottom thickness on some parts of the model and "only leave it for the real top and real bottom". This assumes you are printing spheres or cubes. Most things I print have many many "top" and "bottom" sufaces at many different heights.

    I've never minded the fast paced zig zag of this little bit of infill on some layers because the UM2 head is so light weight. Although if I ever print with transparent filament I will be equally annoyed by it and probably set my top/bottom skin thickness to .2mm or 0mm.

    Did you try that @ggabriele3? See what it looks like in the slice view?

     

    You mean setting Bottom/Top thickness to zero? yes - it gets rid of the yellow infill, but also makes the bottom and top very thin. Setting it to zero makes a part that has no bottom.

    I guess I understand now what's happening. It sees the internal layers that have overhangs as having "tops" and "bottoms".

    My expected behavior was that it would only set the actual top and bottom of the entire part, I suppose by measuring the distance from the bottom layer up and the top layer down, where Shell Thickness would set a minimum thickness for the inner walls of the entire print.

     

  3. I think part of the answer to your question is that Cura was is designed, tested and optimized for UMO and UM2, which have relatively light hotends. That lets them accelerate faster with less force and therefore less shaking.

    That said, it has been a while sense I looked at the code, but I do believe Cura marks infill on the gcode output. It shouldnt be to hard for someone to write a plugin that destroys infill between a chosen set of build heights, if someone hasn't already. I would do it, but I have too many other things going on.

     

    Well here's the thing - there is a plugin that simplifies the lines (it's called Simplify.py) that enabled me to get a smooth outer surface.

    However, the infill is still there. I printed the hedgehog model in transparent filament. You can see the zig-zag infill on the inside, making the print look messy even though the outer shell is smooth.

    So it's really not an issue of which printer, since there are other threads on this (see: "no infill means no infill").

    My suggestion would be simply to make it an option.

    Though Cura may have been developed for the UM, I hugely prefer it to Slic3r and Repetier. It's much more user friendly and easier to tweak settings from print to print. People are asking Printrbot to write up tutorials for Cura. I humbly suggest that it's worth the devs time to keep other printers in mind.

  4. You are wrong indeed. What we're looking at there and in your topic is "top/bottom" skin. Cura puts material there, because if you look from the top of the model, there needs to be a 0.8mm piece of solid material there. Which is why it is putting the yellow zig-zag lines there.

     

    that's interesting. I set Bottom/Top Thickness to zero and the lines disappeared.

    But why is it putting that infill all over the inside of the print? And why a zig-zag? The effect of the zigzag is to make the printer shake violently back and forth (even with acceleration turned down).

    I really want to understand this, and how to control it. I don't want to go back to Slic3r.

     

  5. Check that the three leveling screws are properly countersunk into the heated bed. There was a bad batch of screws that meant that they were sticking up a bit above the surface of the heated bed which can make the glass bow a bit. It's easy enough to fix with a large drill bit or, preferably, with a countersinking bit.

     

    I'm actually on a Printrbot Simple Metal - it auto-levels.

     

  6. By the way your leveling looks a bit off. You should have the print bed about .1mm closer to the nozzle for the bottom layer. I know you said you did .3mm bottom layer thickness but Cura commands the nozzle to .3mm above the bed so it should be squished more wide than tall (pancake like but with .3mm by .4mm cross section). Whereas your bottom layer is more round.

     

    I have improved it since then, but it has been a struggle to get that right. When I print calibration cubes, it looks as though the Z-height is too low...the corners bulge a bit as if it's being laid down too flat, and bulging at the corners.

    If I raise the Z-height any further, however, I get the stringing on the bottom layer that you see in that pic.

     

  7. Yeah, as said above, print with more wall thickness. I never go under 1.6mm. Perimeter loops are stronger and faster than infill; printing with thin walls but heavy infill is poor print optimization.

     

    OK, I just adjusted Shell Thickness from 0.8 --> 1.6 and let Cura re-slice.

    The yellow infill is still there, just moved further from the edge. Cura seems to be putting this extra infill there whether the print needs it or not.

    And what about printing with stuff that's supposed to be transparent, like a vase or bowl?

    For example, I'm printing with clear filament right now. Using the "simplify short movements" plugin, i'm getting a much smoother exterior, but the messy jagged infill is visible through the shell.

     

  8. Thanks for the reply. Details:

    0.4 Nozzle

    0.2 layer height

    0.8 shell thickness

    0.8 bottom/top thickness

    0.3 initial layer thickness.

    I thought about just making the shells very thick to move the jagged infill away from the outer edge, but this idea falls apart with thin/intricate designs. It just makes the jagged infill tighter, so the printer is violently moving back and forth on the X and Y axes.

     

  9. Hi everyone. First post on the forum.

    I have a Printrbot Simple Metal and I have been working with Cura.

    Cliff Notes: Cura adds infill behind curved layers that is screwing up my prints, and the walls have a "rippled" look to them.

    This issue affects any model that has curves, but this is the specific one I'm using for testing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:371177. The model has long curves, small curves, overhangs, and fine detail.

     

    I was getting blobs randomly all over the print and vertical ripples all over.

     

    FRONT: http://i.imgur.com/u1eEueU.jpg

    REAR: http://i.imgur.com/NxBr1DZ.jpg

    Bad Overhangs: http://i.imgur.com/1r1wvHa.jpg

     

    Initially, I tweaked virtually every variable independently (temperature, filament quality (I have tried cheap and expensive), E-steps (adjusted down +/- 5%, 10%), acceleration, infill, speed, retraction distance and speed, etc). Nothing solved the issue.

     

    Finally, I looked at the tool path in Cura around the area where the warts were worst. This is what I find (Red = outer shell, Green = inner shell, Yellow = infill):

     

    "Evil Infill": http://i.imgur.com/41gYtlP.png

    Another Angle: http://i.imgur.com/dV1TqJU.png

     

    Cura is adding zig-zag infill (yellow) on the inner shell to support layers above it. The warts appear on the outside wherever Cura puts it on the inside.

     

    This is what the interior looks like printed with Cura: http://i.imgur.com/Z2jmDxP.jpg

     

    Slic3r does not do this: http://i.imgur.com/9yRi8pq.png

    And, as a result, the outcome is cleaner: http://i.imgur.com/w8AfBjf.jpg

     

    Comparison of the two results, upside-down showing the overhangs: http://i.imgur.com/NgNrexK.jpg

     

    Today I upgraded from 14.21 --> 15.01, but i'm getting similar issues.

     

    I printed several models with 0% infill, and all the jagged mess is still in there.

    I can post more pictures if needed.

     

     

    What can I do about this?

     

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