janet-t
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Posts posted by janet-t
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If you remove the glass and touch them you will fell if they are mote 'in' the table or the head it's above.
On my umo+ (preassembled) the bed was banana and I had to bend it manually (a bit brute force) that left a gap on the frontal side of the glass of 0.05 (gauge feller) and I corrected it manually to an ok 0.02. The bed heats nice and now when moving the head stays at all times level. In you case if it's some of this causes the warranty should cover it.
My glass is level on a flat surface, and the bed looks level but I'll give it a try see if the bed without the glass is level too. Thanks for your thoughts
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Check this post and if this it's the problem make photos and ask amsterdam to fix it (but it can be fixed with the propper tools).
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10335-glass-plate-not-flat
thanks for sharing this post, could be another hint of the issue. From what I see are the screws sinked in the plate, I'll try and measure them, to find out if that could be the case.
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Use a metal feeler gauge instead of paper, it's much more consistent. .075mm should do the trick.
That's a great idea, but I don't have any, have to find and buy one, Thanks a lot!
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It's really hard to see in the picture, but to me it actually looks fine?
What I'll often do is to simply babysit the first layer, turning the leveling screws as the printer is printing... Typically I'll use 2-3 lines of skirt as well, so once the printer starts to print the actual model, the bed is leveled nicely all around... That of course only works if the bed is actually plain... If not you would have to compensate constantly while the printhead moves around on the first few layers... After that, you should be fine even if it is a bit uneven (after some layers the unevenness will flatten out).. Not really an optimal solution though.
Thanks I shall baby sit for the first layer, hope this will help.
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Thanks for all your answers, you forum guys are so nice to help me out, wish that the UM support would be so kind to, really frustrates that when you are nearly there they send you to the reseller.......I'll give the possible options a try and I'll get back with an answer if I find out how to get it right.
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The main issue is on the front left side, mention that the photo is taken from the back of the printer. -
I've had some issues getting large prints out of the UM2. From what I can see is the bed not level enough. And I cannot get it better. I was being helped by the UM support but when I mentioned that I bought the printer in Amsterdam I had to go back to Amsterdam and they don't respond until now. However I don't have a leveled bed and the UM support won't help me due to their policy. Now I have a printer that is not working like it should and is far from plug and play for larger prints. Can someone be so kind to help me out??? I've a quite expensive printer and it is not working consuming a lot of filament and time.
The problem is: either they don’t stick to the plate or one part
is squeezed into it and the other part is loose from the bed. Or the
measurements are not correct due to bed leveling.
The main issue is between the back right corner (standing in front of
the UM2) and in the middle part of the front left corner, seems like
there is a part on the glass plate in the front left corner that is
higher, or just don’t get the leveling nice. However the glass
plate is flat when I lay it on the table.
I have been using the paper method for leveling. Is there another guide or a possibility
to tweak the first layer of the print to get it smooth on the plate
and get great results. However the UM support team is also mentioning
something about calibration of the z-axis, perhaps due to transport
damage, well there was and is no issue of such a kind and the
body/outside of the UM2 is really stable and square, not like I’ve
found on the UM forum that there is a lot of difference between the
legs of the UM2 body. Can somebody please help me out????
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Hi Perhaps you can watch the youtube
about the Noisemaker plugin in Zbrush, should do the trick. -
I tried it and it is really great, printed on 218ºC and the transparency is great, easier to work with than XT, no stringing, and can be printed much faster to get the same transparency. Fan settings can be normal and still get the transparency. I printed a fan with it, on 50 mm/s and this was the result.https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/331-the-first-print-with-hd-glass
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Hi I've the same issue, brim is printed uneven more filament on the right side of the print and have some extrusions issues, tom much retraction with the new firmware update from Feb. the 2nd. Any solutions yet? Or perhaps back to the old firmware?
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Thanks a lot for all you suggestions, I had the same issues, printing with FlexiFill from FormFutura. The final print settings that worked for me were:
Temperature 230ºC
Bed temperature 67ºC
Speed: 10mm/s for every speed options only the travel speed was set to 150mm/s
Layer: 0.1 mm
No(!) glue on the bed
Brim support to start with
And last but not least I wiped the filament with a cloth on which I sprayed WD40, because I would not spray the WD40 in my tube, I don't know what the effect is on other filament that's why I did it this way around.
The print is in the bottom layers not yet perfect, some spider wires I suppose I have to lower the fan speed to 50% for a longer time.
Before this I've tried several settings but my main issue is was loosening from the bed, and the last one I tried without the glue and it sticked nicely.
Bed leveling how to get the bed really level
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Dear All, good news, I nailed it!!!!
This is what I did.
First I used my iPhone with a carpenter surface level tool to check whether or not the bed was level, and it was within 0,1º on all directions. That's quite level isn't it?
Than thanks to Eldrick I used a metal feeler gauge to determine the right distance between the nozzle and the bed in the bedleveling procedure on my Ultimaker.
In the first round I used the 1 mm thick metal feeler gauge and at all the points the nozzle and the bed had a distance of 1 mm, than in the second round I used the 0.8 mm thick metal feeler gauge to determine the right distance between the nozzle and the bed. On all the three points I could slide the feeler between the nozzle and the bed no, touching but no resistance. And than printed the same file again, and it is really square and evenly printed on all sides. So from what I saw during the leveling routine it when using paper you tend to bring the nozzle too close to the bed and that is where the trouble started. Many thanks to Eldrick and I hope that Ultimaker put two feelers instead of the glue in the package when buying an Ultimaker. This saves a lot of time and money and some frustration....