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Posts posted by Danieljenzen

  1. Hello! I have a UM2, and think about upgrading to this "Matchless Block" i've heard alot about recently.

    I am wondering if anyone has experience with atomic Pulls regarding these.

    How does it work when the Matchless nozzles have this kinda "mechanism" inside?

    I'ts kinda new so im hoping someone have already tried it!

    Also, anyone have experience printing with 1.5mm nozzle? Is it possible and is it worth it?

    Thanks you in advance :)


    Hello! I just found this thread about my exact problem! Is the issue really fixed?

    Is there really no other way of fixing this except buying a whole new upgrade kit?

    I've got a fairly new printer and haven't printed much at all, kinda hurts to buy a kit that expensive when i feel the printer doesnt really need it.

    Is warranty a solution here?

    Thank you in advance  :)


    Does your problem meet all the similarities as mentioned in this thread or could it also be regular under extrusion for example?


    Alot of my prints lately look alot like the pictures posted in this thread. Lines are not touching but some places they are. 0.1 setting hides it for the most part but it shows sometimes.

    I might aswelll try the axles, if that doesnt work, ill look into buying the kit upgrade after the printer isnt considered "fresh".

    But if i recall correctly, there should be a way to check the axles right? If they have the correct distance and all?

  3. Hello! I just found this thread about my exact problem! Is the issue really fixed?

    Is there really no other way of fixing this except buying a whole new upgrade kit?

    I've got a fairly new printer and haven't printed much at all, kinda hurts to buy a kit that expensive when i feel the printer doesnt really need it.

    Is warranty a solution here?

    Thank you in advance :)

  4. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:903411

    Printed these with:


    0.8 shell

    100% fill to get watertight


    bottom layer 10mms 0.3 layer

    outershell 20mms

    im trying to make this but the print either get extremely ugly or the White pot doesnt get watertight. I use my old printer for the white part and 1 month old for the blue part. This is how they look.

    I'm already printing very slow and ofc, ive tightend everything as asked and cleaned the nozzles. Why am i not getting this right? I see plenty of others printing with PLA getting this right even with the "fast" simple setting and looks nice from cura which i also tried, i had to stop cause of the stepper engine slipping filament....

    im spending more time on this forum that printing lately





  5. The switches are only used in the homing procedure.  So once that is done you don't have to worry about the switch failing 5 hours into a 30 hour print.  but at some point if you have a friend with a soldering iron and some skills you should have them fix this.


    Yes agreed, thank you for your consistent help gr5 on my other posts aswell, i seeme to be running into ALOT of problems in my starting days as a 3d printer, each and everytime crushing my sould and leaving me clueless, but eventually fixing it. This rollercoaster of crushing dreams and rebuilding it really saps the energy out of me.

  6. I figured it out!

    I know gr5 told me never to remove the transparent cover, but i had to. I noticed that one of the switch cable looked abit sketchy and i wanted to give it one last try before i sendt it back.

    As you see on the photoes, the Red cable, looks like its supposed to be welded to the switch, but the connecting point of the cable and the switch was waaay too weak and small. So i trimmed off some of the red rable on the end to give it bigger space to "connect with", mounted it on the switch with the black sleeve, and it worked!

    This might have happend due to VERY VERY small vibrations on the cable, as it always has been very close to the Y-axis engine belt, i might be wrong, but when i tighten those pulleys, that might have been the last hanging atom connecting the switch to the printer shaking loose by the slightest touch on the machine.

    I have no idea if it will hold like this in the long term, but it shouldnt be able to shake loose anytime soon.











  7. I know you said you had checked all the pulleys, but just to make sure, did you also check the one directly on the stepper motor shaft? I've seen this error in person 2-3 times (different printers) and every time that's where the problem was.


    Oh yes, i went over all the pulleys i touched the first place many times.

    And yes, i removed the inner white cover after gr5 told me to, and checked the stepper. Its tight and running good. I cant believe how this could happen.

    As i mentioned in the first post, i pressed "home head" to check if everything was allright after the tightening, and it went fine, but when i started a print, thats when it went wrong, and havent been able to use the printer since.

  8. Hello, thank you for you answer.

    I cant think of any reason how this is possible, NEVERR touched the switch or the cables, i just adjusted the extruder head so i could tighten the 2 pulleys in that corner and centered the axis.

    In that case, am i able to get the switch pack by warranty or something? the price for the parts is 15 euro, which is lovely, but 30euro freight? :/

  9. Hello! the topic says it all

    Printer was working 100% fine and just did a 35 hour print.

    After this i thought about doing some maintenance on the machine to keep it fresh, cause lately, ive bought a new printer, and rotating its extruder head around feels alot less resistant than my old one, i sometimes had to put alot of force into moving the printhead left and right(standing infront of printer)

    And noticed the printer wasnt finishing the top layers too good, so i tried to tighten the pulleys and basicly everthing i could tighten. including centered some axis, as one of them was sticking out of the printer. so everything looked 100%.

    After this i pressed "home head" and it went all just fine, but when i went on to start a print, the extruder head always does "home head" first, and this is where the Y axis sensor switch probably stopped working. "switch error, contact support"

    Ive read alot about this in the last 3 hours:

    The metal tip is bent corrently

    The sensor emits the faint click sound when moved to, as in activated button.

    ive checked absolutely all pulleys, belts and screws.

    i even took off the left big white cover to see if any cables was pinched while tightening the short belts and whatnot.

    No cables look damaged, although i noticed for some time that it looks like some of the belts or something, is getting grinded on, as i found lots of black dust around the engine, same for the X engine, on top of both engines. i have no idea if this has anything to do with it.

    Only thing i didnt do, was removing the bottom plate, this happend while i was trying to give the machine some tightening up, so it couldnt have done any damage in the main board.

    The machine has run 1000 hours of printing. 04 nozze, bought this one from Netherlands via ultimaker.





  10. Thanks for feedback! I figured it out.

    i Changed the nozzle and the prints looks alot better!

    I think the previous nozzle had take too much beating from alot of experiementing, as it has been my first nozzle with 0 experience printing what so ever.

  11. Hey again! thank you for great answers, but i got a new question!

    These pictures below, is from my first printer, its printed with


    0.2 layer

    1.2 shell

    30mms on everything

    10mms bottomlayer.



    Can you see the rugged and thick lines? how does with happen? but not with my newest printer? ive done atomic pulls and everything, is it time to change nozzle?

    its been printing for 925 hours. 963M



    This is from my newest printer. no problems





  12. Now this is great.

    After 400 atomic pulls and pressing down filament and pulling up, the belt pulleys are now damaged and the prints im making looks ugly cause of the pulleys adjusting the nozzle up and down on fixed locations. Now this is a major problem.

    I tried to fix this by moving the extruderhead along its full range of movement to see if it helps smoothing out the imperfections of the pulleys, but then the printer turn off and now i cant do anything, it just wont turn on.

    I need expert help QUICK! please!

  13. 5a330fa97894c_20150722_1659261.thumb.jpg.f361a03af9ea4092344e321454162318.jpg

    This is the nozzle of the new printer ive just printed the terminator head with, and failed 2 times.

    I see a tiny bit of light, heat up the nozzle to 210-220, and nothing happens.... WHAT??? NO filament is going through the nozzle, how is this possible? its a brand new printer and i see light through the nozzle, i havent use ANY other than PLA on this, NO woodfill


  14. for the New printer, i used the filament that came With the printer, silver pure PLA.

    On my 5 weeks older printer With 600 hours on, ive used PLA, PLa/PHA from colorfabb, XT-polyester from colorfabb And least but probably the biggest issuer, woodfill.

    Woodfill totally screwd me over many times. its like you have to be present while its prints all the time, very frustrating trying to make something in Wood that take 82 hours ect.

    My older printer i can understand is abit reduced in the nozzle, but the New one? i dont understand. I have NOT used and will probably never use woodfill on my newer printer.

    first print 0.2/0.8/0.8/30mms. 50mms infill speed. 214c. print stopped after 16 hours by myself.

    What speed is good for bot layer? the standard is 0.3mm, but should i change this or just leave it be? im fine With printing 10mm bot layer, but it seemes i need to print bot layer slower than 99% of all others displaying their setting.. Regardless of my New or used printer.

    Second attempt, i reduced infill speed to 30mms aswell, i saw some signs of underextrution on the infill walls.

    nozzle total clog before finishing baseplate for the print.

  15. I am actually struggling to do proper atomic pulls atm, plastic wont extrude when i press filament down in the nozzle, and wont get a proper grip of whats deep down in the nozze.

    i thought when printing with 0.2 layer, 30mms was a good speed? and 10-20 for 0.3 first layer.

    anyway, the rest of the print was done with 30mms overall, i even increased to 214c because of feeder slipping and struggling with the first layer. I am really frustrated about this. Ive got 2 printers here and all of a sudden im having major nozzle problems.

    I didnt say anything about my second printer before now, but this one struggles too sometimes to print slow and steady, the atomic pulls worked fine on this one. Now im printing 0.3 layer at 20mms, had to slow down to 60% speed, 215c, and the feeder is stepping here aswell...

  16. This is a brand new ultimaker 2 im printing with. its my 2nd one.

    So right out of the box after test print, it fails this.

    First try, i came back from work after putting it on before i went to bed, there was a layer or 2 that showed underextrution, which ofcourse ruined the whole part. so i had to start over again.

    This time when i wake up, the base wasnt even finished before the nozzle clogged and is flying in the air.

    How is this possible?

    Pictures below shows settings, i tried to print relatively slow, i have no idea what im doing wrong.







  17. I dont know if i told, but i did use some oil on the filament, it didnt slip or get twisted at any point, making the phone cover.

    i did the cover with 15mms, and will try 10 now to see if it makes differanse.

    what printer would be best to use for ninaflex in that case?

  18. Hello! Im back for more questions! I recently picked up ninjaflex to try make some iphone covers. This is how it looks like




    The bottom got very smooth and nice, but overall, it looks shit tbh, how can i improve this?

    Settings used:

    0.4 nozzle

    0.2 layer

    1.2 Shell

    Retraction enabled (forgot to turn this off after reading alot of recommendations)

    1.0 top/bottom

    100% fill

    15mm/s and overall speed

    100mms travel.

    6hours 50min.

    After seeing some layers at start, i tried to experiment abit to try improve the print. I dont know what the problem is or how i can fix this underextrusion?

    I tried temp from 220-245c. 75-100% speed. 100-120 Material flow.

    All these settings in differant ranges and combinations, i never quite figured out a setting that would make the layers flat and smooth, they all look liked like this the whole print time.

    Earlier i had problems where the filament started knotting up in the feeder, i fixed this by lubricating the bowden tube with oil.

    So is there a way to make this print smoother? without any holes like this allover the print?




  19. DidierKlein, thank you for Your reply!

    Do you have an "overall" setting for making vases? including expert settings and Advanced?

    I see small tooltip on each and every expert setting there is, but is there anywhere i can find more detailed tooltips about them? maybe Picture on what differance they make and when to use them for best results?

  20. Hello! I have some picture that i hope will help.


    Here are 4 vases i tried making, all of which failed, starting from left side first. I forgot to uncheck “solid top” though, other than that, its not waterproof and its VERY stringy, the second one aswell.

    Third one was done by spiralize, with absolutely 0 strings, its perfect, but again, its not watertight. 4rth one I made thicker in bottom, I think 2mm bottom, and 1.2 shell. It still leaks like a river. It didn’t even finish, I even set the temp to 240c before I left home to return back to this.

    All vases was done with 30-50mm/s. at least 1mm thick shell, and 1-2mm bottom. 0.2 layer height. 0% infill. I very rarely print above 50. i have a thing for quality and patience.


    Last picture is of 2 of the first vases I tried, at this time I couldn’t figure out what went wrong until I was the filament in the back was completely chewed up. About same settings as other vases.


    I even tried printing this thing, but the 2 “towers” in the front wouldn’t stick to the plate cause of their small area of bottom. They someone got pushed over and knocked away by the nozzle, I think they had tipped over a littlebit, cause one of the side to peak and get hit. I tried lots of different support, brim and everywhere.

    I have absolutely NO idea what im gonna do, if I adjust anyone, something goes wrong in the other end. And 99% of the objects on thingiverse NEVER updating with print setups for their perfect made objects, I need to make several attempts, wasting LOTS of plastic and time on this. Should I just forget vases? I mean its not even advanced, and it’s a great gift to make, and great to start off my “3d print career” im trying to build, by making some attractive objects to get people attention. As told before, I printed differential, which came out great. And I thought 3d print was download and print.. I guess im VERY wrong.

    If you read all this, I appreciate the time spent trying to help me a lot, cause right now, im at rock bottom, at least when it come to vases. And who knows what other objects I cant solve in the future?



  21. Hello!

    I'm Daniel and i've had ultimaker2 for about 2 weeks.

    Before i go to topic, i really need to say that im happy i bought a 3d printer, i absolutely love the machinery, and recieving it was the day my life got "extended", i felt like.

    But now.. im kinda in doubt and misery. I'm having a deal of problems and been reading forums and other websites for help. I love it when i get prints 100% good and working, but this rarely happens at this rate.

    First of all, the filament is slipping in the feeder behind, it does this all the time, even when loading a new filament, it starts making this slipping sound, and when this happens mid print, it ends up grinding the filament so much down, it cant provide plastic for the nozzle, ending up with the printer just flying in the air with nothing coming out. Ive read about increasing temperature to get the flow easier for feeder, but even then, the whole vase was full of strings inside, and not waterproof in bottom. Fan was at 100% and trevelspeed about 100 or 150.

    I tried a ton of things, decrease flow rate, speed and some other things, but i just cant seeme to figure it out.

    I then tried the "spiralize" mode to prevent traveling over the vase, wich made it quite perfect inside and out, but the bottom was still not waterproof. now im printing it with 2mm solid bottom, still waiting for the results. So if someone has tips on how to better and faster adapt to situations like this, im excited to hear them!

    Vases isnt that big of a deal, but i want to be able to make everything i can if people want them from me, i cant tell them i need 5 days to figure out how to make them, just to turn them down and say i can't.



    210c Temp.


    1.0mm shell

    1-2mm bottom.

    0 infill


    And then i tried to make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271769

    About the same settings as vase. All the numbers around got stringy ALOT, so i has to cancel the print.

    Anyone else getting annoyed with thingiverse, that 90% of the object posts does NOT have proper instructions or ANY tips or hints about settings they used when they upload a perfect picture of the damn thing?

    Apart from vase problems, a differential was absolutely perfect!

    But my machine consistently keeps slipping the filament nomatter what object i print. just sometimes more than others.

    I made this post in a haste, i hope i didnt miss anything or made anything unclear. Hoping for some really good discussions! :)

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