KevinMakes
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Posts posted by KevinMakes
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I found that two was easier because it already had the connections on the board for a second hot end, temp sensor, extruder motor. It was really just plug and play after machining the hotend. Also simplify3d already had the settings in some hidden firmware for the dual extrusion control and it was really...well...simple. it had indepent temp controls so i could tweak the melt/ feed infinitely etc etc etc.
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A few of the reasons why I went with two feed one nozzle,
1.) same feed rate per line but double the production
2.) exact same melt rate per line but double the production
= no material slippage yet higher production out of a single "mouth"
3.) with two feeds it will open the availability of tinkering with high carbon filament/PLA mixtures
The original problem is the low cc/m that I was achieving out of 150 mm/s through a .4 nozzle
so I bored out a .4 to a 1.6 (I could care less about ultra high accuracy in my line of work. this was perfect until the material melt rate couldn't keep up. So I knew I couldn't melt pla at more than 350C ish. So the solution was that I needed to be melting more than a few mm of material at a time. (enter Dual feed single "mouth"). Basically the general goal is print at aproximately 250-300 mm^3/s. Not too far off to imagine considering I was getting about 220 mm^3/s consistently (according to cura).
I see you haven't been on here in awhile. I was wondering how your 2 into on was doing? Any pic's of it?
Thanks Ed
0Shes doing fine. Unfortunately i dont work in the office for the company that owns the printer. Now i only consult for them.
But they are still using the printer and it is working great.
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Heya cloak. Long time no see. I see you're still doing beautiful works.
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I just printed a quick model face of a friend it and it came out real nice, even layer height, but as it was at 50mm/s, i got the usual moire pattern (its kinda hard to miss on a fresh black colorfabb piece, this is what i am curious about removing, but i though it was more related to actual print speed than export settings? will be very curious to know. i want to acetone it real bad but at the same time i kind of don't as it looks so smooth!
Here is the obj file. @KevinMakes, i printed it upside down like in the photo. sunken in a bit for grip as i dont print with infill or support material.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7izhtbap59l3n9f/Merged_euhe-exported.obj?dl=0
I did a quick read up about this angle of deviation thing, and from what i've read seems to be some kind of subvidided polygon/tri count increase of some sort which may not help me as i am already working with 200,000 polys already. I could be wrong though i did only spend 2 mins reading up on it, it may align them more favourably, but the moire is the topic in question for me.
Here is a photo of the back, which shows the result of low poly count, very visible, but its the back so I don't care, and it looks interesting. angle of deviation may make this better but im not sure about the moire patterning all over it. eitherway i am willing to give it a go just to see the difference.
On another note, i don't seem to get the moire effect as badly when printing in red, so will try red next.
Ill import the obj into solidworks if I can lol and see what I can do with it. sorry Ive been gone so long
can you shoot me a link to the file as a...stl, step, stp, Iges? 3dm?
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I just printed a quick model face of a friend it and it came out real nice, even layer height, but as it was at 50mm/s, i got the usual moire pattern (its kinda hard to miss on a fresh black colorfabb piece, this is what i am curious about removing, but i though it was more related to actual print speed than export settings? will be very curious to know. i want to acetone it real bad but at the same time i kind of don't as it looks so smooth!
Here is the obj file. @KevinMakes, i printed it upside down like in the photo. sunken in a bit for grip as i dont print with infill or support material.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7izhtbap59l3n9f/Merged_euhe-exported.obj?dl=0
I did a quick read up about this angle of deviation thing, and from what i've read seems to be some kind of subvidided polygon/tri count increase of some sort which may not help me as i am already working with 200,000 polys already. I could be wrong though i did only spend 2 mins reading up on it, it may align them more favourably, but the moire is the topic in question for me.
Here is a photo of the back, which shows the result of low poly count, very visible, but its the back so I don't care, and it looks interesting. angle of deviation may make this better but im not sure about the moire patterning all over it. eitherway i am willing to give it a go just to see the difference.
On another note, i don't seem to get the moire effect as badly when printing in red, so will try red next.
Ill import the obj into solidworks if I can lol and see what I can do with it. sorry Ive been gone so long
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Still at it huh cloak. Did you end up buying an ultimaker for home use?
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i'm assuming its just an earthed euro plug, after all, its from an Italian product.
indeed
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Lol, I know how you feel!
What are you doing now?
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I don't own my UM2 and am not going to be working at the same place any longer. I will have to personally buy one if I want to use it now...so no UM2 for me...mind you im a bit addicted to it so may well end up just buying one pretty soon, like today, lol.
I only work as a consultant for my previous employer and I miss my um2 so much lol.
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I Have found that adding external cooling from anywhere but the top to be detrimental to the print quality.
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I would urge ultimaker to come out with a "dual feed 1.75" "single extrusion" .4 and such and a much larger dual feed 1.75" "single extrusion" 1.5 ishmm nozzle. I know it sounds silly at first read, but consider that thought for a minute. If you know much about thermodynamics you will see what my point is.
Would make for interesting atomic pulls
This is ok for 2 color prints or using materials that require the same printing temps. But has limited flexibility. Even different colors or brands of PLA can require different Temps to get them to print really nice.
the purpose of the two filaments is having a wider (volume) window of available "glass point" material to increase the potential max print volume (thus Speed)
Speed is good.
The problem lies with the bigger heat zone, this creates more plastic expansion, thus more oozing and longer retract lengths. Not an issue on all prints but not ideal for a general purpose printer.
THat makes sense. I personally want that bigger heat zone but I dont use retraction... pretty much ever...
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that picture shows it a bit better
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so i guess the second image doesn,t really show it all that well but you can kind of see that in the first image the poly count (changed by way on angle and deviation) is a lot lower which makes a bit of a fragmented imag however with the deviation vlaue and the of angle value pushed to the max accuracy you can see that the image is much more smooth. I just figured this may be beneficial for you as you are about finish quality. if you want to send me a file I can see i it would benefit you? my email is k.i.stuge@gmail.com btw
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will upload a picture example of the differences
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Curious about that angle of deviation thing and does it export the model differently than cura will import the obj?
Well I create the models in solidworks and When I choose to save as an stl It gives me an option to change the quality of the models by way of changing the deviation and "off angle" values
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I would urge ultimaker to come out with a "dual feed 1.75" "single extrusion" .4 and such and a much larger dual feed 1.75" "single extrusion" 1.5 ishmm nozzle. I know it sounds silly at first read, but consider that thought for a minute. If you know much about thermodynamics you will see what my point is.
Would make for interesting atomic pulls
This is ok for 2 color prints or using materials that require the same printing temps. But has limited flexibility. Even different colors or brands of PLA can require different Temps to get them to print really nice.
the purpose of the two filaments is having a wider (volume) window of available "glass point" material to increase the potential max print volume (thus Speed) -
we already have a sort of pressure controlled extruder with the basic hotend, you just have to do the math to get that pressure. However the shape of the interrior of the basic hotend could use some work to direct the pressure.
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@KevinMakes: Do you fear a radial temperature gradient and therefore imhomogeneous extrusion with a single 2.85mm extrusion?
For me, a pressure controlled hotend is something like the holy grail of hotends.
Lol big words. No I think that the standard single extruder does just fine until you try extruding the volume that I do, and that is why I designed the hotend to have a more venn diagram type of temperature gradient. I would just hope the temperature in the center on the new model would be amplified by the two hotends, and with the thermistors on the outside but slighly closer to the elements than the flue for the filament should mimic the value of the temperature of the flue, however the firmware portion with the gradient rules that control the elements would definitely have to go.
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Well, some people did sort of win a price like that already. Not from a competition, but from just being excellent members of the Ultimaker community.
Or even a job
Lol with 3d printing being so open source there isnt really a need to hire anyone
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Dear Ultimaker,
When we release something like dual extrusion, we don't want to make any compromise in quality and experience.and yet you guys compromised the quality and experience of the UM2 for the dual-extruder.... that isn't coming out... ever...
You guys really claim to set the standard for the industry, and yet you guys give up so easily. We want to hear that you guys are running into problems but are working hard to resolve it, not that you simply gave up.
Where there's a will, there's a wayIf we can put a man on the moon, then we can be damn sure that we can put dual extruders on a UM2
If at first you don't succeed, try, try againAnd if you guys simply refuse the work on the dual extruder.... I don't know what to say other than promises can be legally binding. If not that, then an exchange for the broken promise. Perhaps a return/refund, or a free Olsson block for UM2 owners. You guys are already giving it away to new customers. Why not heal the scars of the dual extruder with an Olsson block? The way I see it, its only fair.
You have to hand it to Ultimaker, they did not officially relase the dual extrusion but they did leave behind the tools nessicary to do it yourself, (the dual extrusion firmware that was buried in the cura program files) the open space for all the hardware you would need for dual extrusion. its super simple. If you would like a personal walk through on the process I would be glad to give you any assistance necessary to get you up and running. If that is something you are interested in Please feel free to email me at K.I.Sturge@gmail.com
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I want to be able to giggle, I can kinda speak deutsch please please please LOL
Deutsch = German ;)Thats a different langauge...
It is deutsch, german is what stupid Americans call it...i'm an american...just not dumb.That is like saying spanish= mexican
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How to fix warping
in Coffee corner
Posted
Haha you guys should check out the instagram video i made avout bed adhesion. You can stick any number of fancy anythings on the bed. Bottom line blue tape and correct temperature gradient as you are leaving the base layers (adhesion layers) will solve the problem.
That video: