coolal
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Posts posted by coolal
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Just an update: FBRC8 had a replacement fan in the mail within an hour of emailing them. I'll have it in hand on Monday. I couldn't ask for better service than that!
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Just became aware!
What I would recommend if you have a multimeter to check if the electronics are fine.
If that is the case, your fans are connected but do not turn on your fan is probably dead.
We'll send you a new fan, that won't be a problem if it turns out it is faulty.
Hi @SandervG,
Just tested the fan with a multimeter and there was no continuity between the positive and negative leads. As I understand, the fan should act as a resistor when tested and show continuity and a resistance reading.
I just sent an email to FBRC8 (I hope this was the correct contact for US claims) and started ticket # 3628.
My only concern is related to the logistics of replacing the fan. The header connector on the fan was huge and a real pain to install. The directions indicated it would route through the hot end after the thermocouple and nozzle heater cables were in, but it was the opposite. So, in order to remove it, i'm basically on the verge of disassembling the hot end and undoing all the cables from the board to the hot end. All for a fan.
What I'd much rather do is clip the fan cable near the hot end and attach the new fan with solder / heatshrink. That way I don't have to touch a thing besides unscrewing the fan.
Would a clipped fan cable invalidate a warranty claim?
Thanks,
Alex
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Fan didn't spin?
Nope, nothing. But, it spins freely when i try with my finger. I didn't want to push the volts / amps and get magic smoke. But, definitely no movement at 9V.
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If you have a 9 volt battery and apply power to the fan plug (hopefully you have some thin wire to attach to each)....does it spin?
Thanks for the idea. I just hooked the fan up to a DC regulated bench supply. I put 9 volts through it, but there wasn't any current flow.
Any test I can do with a multimeter to diagnose the fan's condition?
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Hey guys! Just finished building my new UMO+ (after a few headaches that the forum was kind, and patient, enough to help resolve).
At first startup, I had two dark lines across the Ulticontroller. Turns out the UMO+ white board was actually flashed for the UM2. That was easy enough to solve. Everything else, besides the fan, started to operate fine after that.
Unfortunately, I can't figure out what's going on with the fan. I checked to make sure it was plugged into "Fan PWM". The cable is not cut, shorted, or in any way damaged. I also tried to force the fan on via the "Tune" menu on the Ulticontroller.
I've attached a shot of the first print without using the fan. This is using Ultimaker silver PLA with a gluestick. Cura was set for 210 nozzle / 70 bed / support grid touching the bed / and no raft or brim. Everything else was whatever Cura defaulted to.
For a first print, I'm rather impressed with it.
So, any other ways I can test what's going on with the fan? Probably DOA?
In the meantime, any ways to optimize printing PLA without a fan? It looks like the test print was almost successful.
Thanks again,
Alex
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The extruder head is finally together! The PDF assembly manual is 100x better than the wiki. Now i know why I couldn't figure out how Ultimaker was happy with that wiki. There was a much better PDF that completely superceded it. If only they plastered links to it on their product page, in the box, and on the wiki.
Thanks again to the community. Feeling a lot better now!
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Thanks for the link! The box had a page of stickers, a booklet of artistic prints, and an ad for 3dhubs. No manual, no packing list, no quick start guide, or any indication of a proper build manual or a link to one.
Googling ultimaker assembly yields the wiki first and foremost.
The UMO+ assembly manual is a lifesaver! I just wish I had that from the beginning or at least a post card in the box that says to stop and download it first thing.
Thanks again guys,
Alex
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Hi guys, finally made it to the part where I'm installing the fan duct on my new UMO+.
Well... the extra long thumb screws are JUST long enough to grab the aluminum plate with 4 holes. However, they don't stick out an extra cm or so like the pictures. Additionally, the orientation of the heater core 90 degree tab is swapped in pictures. Early on it exists the heater block and goes to the left. Then a few pictures later the heater blocked is turned and the heater cord is on the opposite side. Seeing as how I just set it in place with a M3 bolt, I don't know how that changes. Then even further along they switch the hole that was used to route the cables from the heater block.
There is no thread left to install the fan duct. The extra long thumb screws bottom out on the aluminum plate. Additionally, the 4 holes for the fan attachment (on the metal duct) are different. Two are smaller and look like they could thread onto m2 bolts. The larger holes look to be m4 or larger. Basically, the M3 screws are useless and even if they fit, i couldn't thread into the aluminum plate.
Based on product shots, I know the fan should hang to the left of the nozzle. But, I'm not sure how to mount it in that orientation.
Lastly, for the Ultimaker team members on the board
Is there are clear reason why the Ultimaker build wiki hasn't been updated to reflect the product you currently sell?
Is this a case of just not caring because it's "good enough"? Or just passing the buck from department to department (ex. I'm R&D or a moderator but not in charge of the wiki)? There are comments about the steps being inaccurate and out of order that are over two years old (and right at the bottom of the page). Yet the errors they reference are still there. Additionally, you've been selling the Ultimaker Original Plus for nearly a year yet have ZERO reference to it in the instruction.
It's a wiki. It takes minutes to edit and rearrange directions. Perhaps hours if you factor in taking new pictures.
I consider myself excellent at following build directions. But, to be plain, the current build wiki is rather poorly managed and I can't understand why.
Is it so hard to update it? I'm sure some of us would do it for free because you can't sell a kit product with incomplete directions. It's just bad business. I can't be the first who was annoyed by this... I'm just curious why a company with such a great product and a wonderful community can so blatantly not care about a build wiki that is THE OFFICIAL reference for builders.
Thanks,
Alex
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There ain't pretapped 100% sure since I finished assembling my second umo+ weeks ago. Don't worry about the manual some stuff it's just wrong.
Check the umo manual and the hot bed upgrade (it has photos for the bed part). Almost 99% of the manual it's correct but for example the tension springs ain't documented (no need to use at the start aik) and the clip to hold the bed cable only shows on the front photo of the manual but isn't documented.
If in doubt just drop a msg here.
Limit switches are in! Thanks again for all the help. The community delivers
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Pretty sure they shouldn't be tapped. You'll "tap" them when you run the screw through. At least that's how it was when I assembled mine 3 years ago. I doubt that has changed since.
Thanks for your reply! This is the line in the instructions that is throwing me off:
"All limit switches are pre-tapped, you can fasten them directly with M3 bolts, no nuts required here!"
If the bolts are self tapping, perfect. But, I didn't want to force them when it says the switches are pre-tapped.
Thanks,
Alex
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Hi guys,
My new UMO+ arrived on Friday from Dynamism. It's my first 3D printer and I spent the last two days excitedly sanding and lacquering the frame panels.
I've been reading the forums non-stop (this awesome community is the main reason I picked the UMO+) and assumed that all the quality control stories were in the past or extreme outliers. I was further put at ease when I saw a bag of spare parts that was nearly the same size as the bag of nuts, bolts, and washers that were supposed to be used up.
I just sat down to start the build with everything organized around me. But, I think i've hit a brick wall and if so, I must admit, I'm rather annoyed.
After installing the 8 bearings I moved onto the limit switches. After gently trying to screw in a 10mm M3 bolt, I noticed that it wasn't grabbing at all. On further inspection, ALL THREE limit switches are smooth and untapped on the inside.
The directions stress that no nuts are required in this step and considering i'm only on step 2, am I dead in the water? OR can I just use some extra long bolts with nuts?
It's extra annoying to see the two "V"s for two separate quality control checks that didn't catch it...
Time to put everything away while I wait for Ultimaker / Fabrc8 to process a request, ship new limit switches, and cross my fingers that it arrives by Friday?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
Acceptable Level of Wobble (runout?) in Z-Axis Screw
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hey guys,
I can confidently say that after a week of printing on the UMO+, i'm officially addicted to 3d printing in general. I've started to dial in print settings and i'm getting better and better quality print after print.
There is one thing that keeps catching my attention: the z-axis screw. I bring the bed to it's lowest position anytime I want to remove a print. Consequently, i'm usually watching the bed quickly ascend for the "auto home" function. There's a really slight wobble (probably around .5-1mm of total runout) at the very tip of the z-screw. I can only spot it when it's spinning quickly to bring the bed up.
Is this something I should worry about? Or just the nature of the machining tolerances? So far I haven't noticed any wobble on print corners. So, I'm assuming that it's somewhat kept in check by the brass nut and two linear bearings.
I'd love to hear what is within tolerances.
Thanks again,
Alex