Kwallnation

We have solved the problem. We ran out of all ideas and decided to finally try replacing the coupler. We bought the long lasting "permanent" fix coupler from gr5 and installed it. It worked phenomenally and the prints are coming out amazing again. Initially we didn't think it was the coupler because when the problem first started we had replaced the coupler 3 weeks before. I forgot that in those three weeks, we had printed for 2 weeks straight, 24/7 for a large project we were on. This wore out the coupler and thus this new coupler fixed the problem. Thank you all for the help!! -Kwallnation

Hi! Has anyone come up with any ideas?

Hi Everyone! I apologize for not posting in a few weeks, but after tinkering a little bit I had some interesting results. Since my last update I installed an Olsson block and a new temperature sensor (which I broke while trying to install the new block:P). I also completely cleaned and re-greased the z-screw and attempted a re-alignment procedure that I found in another forum thread that solved someone else's problem. However, I continued having the same problem with inconsistent layers throughout my entire print. It seems like a slightly different issue than what others are having, as theirs seem to be only one one layer on a consistent basis. My prints seem to have inconsistent layers throughout. However, something interesting happened when I decided to try a print at .06 mm versus my usual .1. The problem seemed to disappear entirely! Then, when I went back to printing at .1 mm again (using the mini calibration test that comes with the printer) the problem returned. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this happened? And if so, how I can fix it so it prints normally at .1 mm again? Thanks so much for all of your help! (And sorry for such a long post )

peggyb: That is my problem too! When I lift my UM2 bed up by had I hear crunching noises in certain spots! I don't know how to solve this!

@gr5: I moved the build plate up and down and there was no play in the Z-screw. I couldn't move it at all without the shaft turning. It appears that this is not the problem that is causing the Z-banding in my case.

Thats a very interesting theory! I will for sure try it and get back to you with the results. Thank you.

Alright, thank you. I also just disassembled and cleaned out both the Bowden tube and the feeder. I am waiting on a test print to see how these changes affect the quality.

Yes, I moved them up and down but if I raised the bearing to the top of the Z-guide rail and released it, it would tend to stick in some places and would not independently slide to the bottom of the shaft. Could this be a problem with the guide rods instead of with the bearings? If not, any ideas??

After using Colorfabb filament, print quality has improved but the problem is still there. We have just tried cleaning off the Z-screw as well as removing and trying to clean the bearings; however there is still some sticking as I move the build plate up and down. Any advice to fix?

Thank you very much for your help. I will try it out.

I changed around the filament and it appears that the filament was defective because with a different spool it prints just fine. I will take a look at your solution though. Also, this is the second time that my Ultimaker filament has come defective, is there another brand that would work just as well? Preferably in the US?

Ok thank you for the advice!

We currently use 2.85 mm standard ultimaker brand filament.

Yes, there are some "tocking" sounds but only on the first few layers.

I just replaced the PTFE coupler two weeks ago, but I will check the bearings. How would I access the bearings?