StarShadow
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Posts posted by StarShadow
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I was just wondering: If I were to buy some parts and add a second nozzle onto my printer. Would the software automatically be able to account for the second nozzle? I.E. I can load filament into the second nozzle or change the temperature of the second nozzle.
Or is there a setting that I would have to change in the firmware and recompile it for it to use the second nozzle?
Is that a possibility, or is there no way for me to use the second nozzle other than through gcode sent by the slicer?
I'm just wondering because I want to add a second nozzle but I wasn't sure how/if I would be able to use it.
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After a few tries I think I got it now. Came out clean and now it's back to printing consistently.First.. 260 is too hot imho for pla. No need to go over 230 I think. I also keep pushing plastic in when its cooling till I feel the resistance really going up. Not sure but probably at least till 190c.
The best pull temperature varies per material just try with higher temperature and if it's still a "string" do it again a bit cooler.
And make sure to park you head in a corner not to bend your xy axis!
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Oh. And out of curiosity what printer do you use on 1.75?
It's an Ultimaker 2 that I built myself. (The aluminum extrusion design)
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I am using 1.75 PLA, and I believe the extruder is clogged because the material is hardly coming out of the nozzle very well. Like the extruder motor is really stressed trying to push filament out (even at high temperatures)
So like anyone would do, I decided to clean the nozzle. [with the atomic method]
I set the nozzle to 260C inserted some filament.
Set the temp to 90C and waited for it to cool.
Then I got a firm grip on the filament and I gave it a nice pull.
The problem that I'm having is that the filament breaks off right at the isolator (which also makes it extremely hard to put back in)
so I did it again but with a higher temperature, and I got the same result, the filament broke off at the isolator.
I can't figure this out, I can manually push filament through the nozzle (very slowly because it is clogged) but when I attempt to pull it out it seems it is extremely stuck and just breaks off, even at higher temperatures.
I will keep trying but I don't imagine I will get any different results from the first times.
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Multiplying it by 2 was the first thing that I did.I recommend 400 but 402 should be fine.
But when I used a precise tool to measure, I found that it was actually moving something like 9.6xxxxx instead of 10mm. So that's how I calculated the new steps/unit value that made it accurate to 0.001mm
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I used a very precise measuring tool to measure how far the plate was moving. Based on that, I calculated what the steps/unit should be and now it's as close as I can get it.Oh also, the Z axis on the UMO "ramps" circuit board should have the stepper jumper different than the other 3 stepper drivers. Anyway don't worry about it - just adjust steps/mm by an integral multiplier (multiply by exactly 2x).
I found that the most accurate steps/unit was 402.42
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Oh um2 replica! Well hook up pronterface and a USB cable and tell it to move 10mm and see how far it moves. I suspect you simply have the wrong steps/mm value.
It turns out you were right, I didn't notice while playing around with it, but once I finally finished putting it together and printed a 20x20x5mm prism, I noticed it was only half as tall as it should have been.
So I decided to actually measure it and found out that the z is off by half. If I tell the z to move 100mm it moves ~52mm
So thanks for giving me that solution early on.
I'm using the motor that came with the heated build plate upgrade, so I don't know why the ultimaker2marlin firmware would have a wrong steps/mm value as default.
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I solved it, the problem was the printer didn't know that I have a slightly larger build area. So I had to increase the Z_MAX_POS variable and recompile the firmware.Oh um2 replica! Well hook up pronterface and a USB cable and tell it to move 10mm and see how far it moves. I suspect you simply have the wrong steps/mm value.
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I installed Ultimaker2Marlin firmware on my printer. (Ultimaker 2 replica)
When I start it up, it runs the first time setup. It homes the z axis successfully and guides you through leveling the build plate. Once the leveling is done the build plate moves all the way to the bottom, but the problem is that the plate stops before it even gets to the switch and the firmware tells me that the switch is broken.
I can only assume this happens because the board incorrectly counted how high the plate was when you leveled it. The z end stop works perfectly fine but for some reason the firmware stops moving the plate before it can touch the switch and tells me it's broken.
I have tried this multiple times and I can't figure out why it's happening.
Can someone tell me if there is some other firmware I should try, or if there is something I can change in the firmware to fix this problem? Any help would be appreciated.
While I don't know how to code for Arduino I do know general code.
Looking through the configuration I see values for Z_MAX_POS and Z_MIN_POS
Would changing any of these help to solve the problem? I would think that this would tell the firmware that the z axis is actually larger and it won't stop thinking that it passed the switch.
Constant jamming
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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So recently I have been having problems with jamming, and it actually got to a point where it was so bad, that I couldn't fix it easily.
I took apart the entire hotend, did an atomic pull while holding the heater block with some pliers, and cleaned the nozzle with acetone. Now that it was clean again, I reassembled it, and it still hardly comes out, and jams.
The temperature of the nozzle is not the issue, but when the filament is pushed into the nozzle it doesn't want to come out.
One thing that I have noticed from when I was cleaning it, is that when filament is pushed into the nozzle, rather than actually extruding, it just melts and goes back onto itself. Even when the nozzle is completely clear, the filament would rather build up inside the nozzle and up into the metal piece under the isolator.
Does anyone know why this happens, the filament is melting perfectly at the recommended temperature of 210C but doesn't extrude out of a Clean nozzle. I've cleaned it so many times I just don't know what to do.