Pilla
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Posts posted by Pilla
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I have been having trouble since I bought a new brass nozzle. I replaced the old one with the same type, after over a year of daily prints. Now I have two problems.
1. When doing the Checkup using Cura 3.1, the nozzle temperature never says "checked", even though the nozzle heats to 180C and stays with in +/- 0.5C.
(I won't worry too much about that, since it's heating.) The X, Y, and Z-stops and also the bed temperature Checkup just fine.
2. The first layer is not good. I have set the Z-stop, and with blue Loctite for vibrating screws, held it in place, in the right place. The Z-stop seems to be fixed in place. I leveled the bed manually, using Z=0 on the controller. All good so far. Then I tried to print. First try, first layer, skirt and outline of part looked nice, but there was some lifting. So I stopped the print and added glue to the glass plate. Started over with the print. The nozzle was too close to the bed! I manually leveled again, moving the bed down with the 3 screws on the bottom, and it looks good. Print again - too far away! Next, I hooked up my PC by USB and go through Cura to level the bed. It did not need adjusting. But, the filament is still not touching the bed.
-- bottom line, bed seems leveled, but doesn't seem to be consistent. --
I also updated the firmware to DEV, 250000_single at the same time as I changed the nozzle. Could that have an impact?
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Tommyph1208, you were right! I just leveled the bed to humor you and Neotko, and whoop whoop! The bed needed to be lowered a tad bit on all three screws.
Neotko, I think that black spot was from the previous filament, which was bronze fill. I haven't seen that again.
Big smile!
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I am having extrusion problems with my UMO+.
This began when I had a filament tangle. I've tried tightening the tension spring, loosening the spring, increasing the flow even up to 120%, and still get this erratic extrusion. Searching on the community, I see a similar problem from April 17, 2017, which was caused by the Delrin wheel. I took that out, hammered the middle bearing in to be more centered, and reassembled. It "may" have been deforming, but nothing obvious. (I can't find a roller bearing of that size here in town.) After that, I started printing again, and the pictures show the result. The filament has a bit of a gouge in it. I have tried different filaments, and sometimes succeed with a lot of fiddling with the tension.
How does one set the tension correctly? The spring is 11 mm long, per my little plastic ruler.
Other ideas?
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@pilla you could try to print one, thingyverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40334
Neotko, thanks! That looks like a very cool gear setup. I will download the files and print in my local Makerspace.
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I have a similar problem. My Ultimaker Original+ has been fine, printing for months now, until suddenly it started this "random" underextrusion. Changing filament, nozzle temp, print speed, all didn't help. But I found the root cause just now. While staring into the feeder mechanism with a flashlight while it printed slowly, I saw 6 teeth on the large gear were worn down! I have a picture if that's important, showing the white wood where the black paint is worn off the gear teeth. I successfully printed a part by standing there with my flashlight, and every 360 degree turn, I helped the gear through the stripped section.
Now that I know the root cause, what is the solution? Is there a metal replacement gear? Don't say I need a whole new feeder unit, please!
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Success! Thanks Gr5 and LePaul, and of course, Yellowshark. This print had absolutely NO blobs. After about 45 minutes, I stopped waiting to flick away blobs, and cooked dinner. Strings were few and minor. So here's my interpretation: The nozzle needed to be tightened while it was hot in order to seal it. With no leaking plastic, there were no blobs, and the strings seem to have been related. The Bowden tube was not loose, Gr5. But letting me know that the "100" print speed in Tune meant 100% was a key bit of new knowledge! Now I will optimize my settings. [print=5039][/print]
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I have to say thank you, Yellowshark. You have been very helpful. Here's an update while I'm still working on it. My model is a 30 mm cube, overall, with 15 mm cubes hinged together. http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1468108 When I started printing my model at 30 mm/s (as I set in Cura 15.04.6), the Tune menu still said 100 mm/s. So I dialed it down to 30 and the printhead just crawls along - apparently when I thought I was running at 30 mm/s earlier, I wasn't! I watched the fan speed, too. It started at 50% at layer 2 or 3, then went to 100% soon after that. I got underextrusion on the first couple layers. So I stopped.
* I upgraded the Marlin firmware again. It says MarlinUltimaker-UMOP-250000.hex. I also tightened the nozzle again, but this time while it was hot. I tightened the feeder assembly as well. (Have to use my new wrench, you know!) I removed the filament and put it back into the Bowden tube.
Fresh clean start. Going for 30 mm/s, 0.15 mm layer height, 195 C nozzle. Fingers crossed!
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OK that will teach me to watch videos before commenting!!
When you say your print speed is 125, do you mean 125mm/s, if so that is awfully fast. Certainly outside of my experience envelope. Yes, I mean 125mm/s. From posts here, I see that the volume/sec should be around 5 mm^3/s, so I am varying around there.
Your video suggest the two prints were done with different filament, another variable which does not help. The gold box was done at a makerspace on their UMO+, at whatever settings they had, so I can't answer questions about their filament or settings. I just know that the model is okay.
Are you sure ALL of your settings, including retraction settings were the SAME on both machines?
The point that the fan is on one side may exacerbate the stringing but it does not cause stringing. True, which is why I'm fooling with all the settings! LOL
What are your retraction settings and travel speed? I'm using retraction speed 35.0 mm/s and 5.5 mm [/b]
What is that silver/grey filament, e.g. Colorfabb shining silver? It came in the box with the Ulitmaker. Normal PLA, anyway.
Err I am not sure what you mean by "Cura speed is irrelevant", speed is always relevant. Speed along with layer height determines your extruder temp. If the temp is too hot for the combination of layer height and print speed then that will lead to stringing, irrespective of where the fan is. I mean that setting my print speed in Cura does not change the print speed in the Tune menu while it's printing. Grrr.
I would say that the fact that the print stopped halfway through is an entirely different problem to the stringing. To my mind that would be a software/firmware/machine glitch. Did you notice if your buffer had gone to 0? Even if you had a feed problem I think you would see under extrusion first before the print stopped. Actually that is wrong, even with a feed problem I have never experienced feed causing a printer to stop, it just carries on. True
May I suggest you slow this down for the moment and print one at .15/30mm/s/195c. and we go from there. I have no idea what the right temp should be at such a high speed of 125mm/s. I would like to see those retraction and travel speed settings too. Okay, I will motivate myself to turn that stupid printer back on! When I printed at 30 mm/s, I was using a layer height of 0.1 mm and nozzle of 0.4 mm, so laying down 1.2 mm^3/s. Bad blobbing. I will try your settings.
Maybe the blobbing is a leak around the nozzle. I have previously taken it off and reinstalled it. Maybe another time, following the video I found in the Art of Printing section of the community? But first, your settings, Yellowshark. Probably the blobs, strings and stopping are 3 unrelated issues. I was expecting the printer to be much easier to use!
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A thought on the right side being stringier - the fan is on the left side. Maybe that's the cause of the right/left difference.
Results of my speed/temp variation test:
Run 1: High speed and high temp. In Cura 15.04.6, I set nozzle temp to 205 and print speed to 125. While printing, I looked in the Tune menu on the UMO+ and saw the speed was only 100. That was the same as the video above, so I stopped the print. The number of globs was only one. The stringiness would be a 1 on a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being perfect.
Run 2: High speed and low temp. In Cura, nozzle set to 195, print speed still 125. While printing, the Tune menu showed print speed 100. Results: Looked much better, maybe a stringiness of 4. Had 6 globs of filament. I was able to open the hinge. Strings on the inside would be stringiness of 3.
Run 3: Low speed and high temp. In Cura, nozzle set to 205, print speed to 75. While printing, the Tune showed print speed 100 still. So I turned it down to 76 at 5.85 mm height, after 5 globs of filament. It dropped 4 more globs before suddenly STOPPING at 51%, or after 30 minutes of printing! Some filament dripped down the outside of the nozzle while I waited for it to start up again, a minute or so, and then I stopped the print and put it in cool down.
I will try to do run 4, and I will post pictures, but I am really flummoxed here. Cura speed is irrelevant, and it stopped printing with no error message. Whaaat?
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I may be dumb but your print speeds mean nothing to me. If you are printing quite slow or no faster than medium then your extruder temp. for .15 is probably too hot which will cause stringing.
Did you have your fans on? If not that will probably increase the problem.
I print .300 at 30 or 40 mm/s at 200
Thanks, Yellowshark. My print "speeds" are nozzle diam x layer height x print speed. I figured on varying print speed and nozzle temp in a 2x2 matrix today. Put my Design of Experiments training to use!
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I wonder what can cause problems that are really centered on the back side and right on my new UMO+. It has taken me some work to get this successful (?) print. Standard 0.4 mm nozzle. Material: UM silver PLA. I have varied the nozzle temp from 205 C to 210 C. This print is at 205 C. I tried and failed with layer height 0.1 mm, and this print is at 0.15 mm. I have varied the print speed to go from 1.25 mm^3/s up to this print at 6 mm^3/s. The faster works better. It completed the print, hooray!
I presume that I did something funny in the assembly. Any ideas?
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I'm sorry that my original reply somehow disappeared. The short pulleys that go vertically were the ones that were slipping. Once I cranked on those pulley screws, X and Y moved correctly. I finally managed to print a little Ultimaker robot!!!
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I just spent a long time writing this topic, and got a 503 error. I have a video here to show what happens on my brand new just assembled Original+ when I try to do the calibration and configuration:
During assembly following v3.0 manual, on page 38, it said Check if all axles are able to turn freely. If not, add a washer between the axle and the wooden cap. They all turn, but I don't know if freely enough, so I went on.
On pg 68 it says Check if the head moves smoothly. Move the print head diagonally through the printer, you should not feel any resistance. If you do, the print head is probably not calibrated correctly. If necessary, repeat the steps above. I repeated the steps above several times, but still felt varying resistance as I moved the printer head diagonally across the machine - it seemed sinusoidal.
After assembly, I went on to downloading Cura 2.1.2, upgrading to Marlin firmware, and then check the printer.
Connection: done
Min endstop X and Min endstop Y : not checked
Min endstop Z: works.
Help, please!!!
UMO+ problems with bed leveling, and with nozzle temp
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Thank you for reminding me about the older Cura, rowiac. That seems to work. I got my 3 squares printed nicely by moving the bed up a hair. This bed leveling wizard uses 210 C for the nozzle and 70 C for the bed - higher than my usual. I hope to get a successful test print! If you don't hear from me any more, I succeeded.